King Size Fancy Farmhouse Bed

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 04/09/2013 - 12:22
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build a fancy farmhouse bed in king size from Ana-White.com Inspired by Pottery Barn Somerset bed.

On our facebook page, you requested plans for a king size Fancy Farmhouse Bed (queen plans here).  Pretty happy to deliver on that request today!

The Hall Way has already built the King version by adjust the plans themselves, and look how beautiful this bed is!!!!

And if turquoise is more your thing, here's a king made by Celestmonks

What color will you paint yours?

Dimensions
King Size designed for 76x80 Mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

Boards
26+ feet of 1x6 boards or tongue and groove (recommended)
4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
9 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 3 feet long

Screws
Recommend 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
Recommend 1 1/4" and 2" finish nails
Recommend 4 1/2" diameter bolts, with nuts and washers, 3 1/2" or longer (for attaching headboard to bed base)

Moulding
1 – 8′ Stick of Chair Rail moulding (use this stick on the bottom tier of the headboard)
4 – 8′ Sticks of Base Cap moulding (use this type of moulding to trim panel and for the top tier on the headboard)

Cut List

Headboard
13 - 1x6 (boards or tongue and groove) @ 24" (can be a tad shorter to get everything on a single 8' long board)
2 - 1x3 @ 71 1/2" (inner frame top)
2 - 1x3 @ 19" CUT TO FIT (inner frame sides)
2 - 2x4 @ 48" (legs)
1 - 2x6 @ 71 1/2"
1 - 2x6 @ 78 1/2"
1 - 1x3 @ 80 1/2"


Base
2 - 2x4 @ 80"
6 - 2x4 @ 73"
2 - 1x8 @ 80"
1 - 1x8 @ 77 1/2"
2 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 14 1/2"
4 - 2x4 @ 13 1/2"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by putting the center panel together. I recommend 1x6 tongue and groove - then you can just glue and fit together. You may need to trim off with a circular saw the ends to get the exact measurements as shown below. If your panel is a little smaller, that's okay - we can work with that.

Step 2

Build the frame first, then attach with nails and glue to the panel. If your center panel is a little smaller, split the difference, centering the panel in the middle of the frame.

Step 3

Attach legs.

Note that if your panel boards are less than 3/4" thick, you may need to use a shorter pocket hole or screw. You can also drill the pocket holes in the legs into the panel if that is easier for you.

Step 4

Now attach the base.

Step 5

Step 6

And finally, attach top with glue and nails or screws.

Step 7

Measure and cut the moulding to fit as shown in this diagram. Note that the center panel is framed with the base cap moulding. Also at the underside of the 1x3 is base cap moulding. The chair rail moulidng is placed at the tops of the legs. Nail on and glue. Set headboard aside.

Step 8

We are going to build a really sturdy base for the bed. First, frame up the platform with 2x4s.

Step 9

Leave 1" to the top and attach side rails with nails and glue.

Step 10

Then attach bottom footboard rail.

Step 11

Attach side legs as shown here, flush to end.

Step 12

And then attach the end leg 1x4 as shown here. Keep outside edge as flush as possible.

Step 13

Fit base to headboard and clamp in place. Drill holes and attach with bolts. Use washer and nuts.

Step 14

You'll need additional support for a king. I recommend at minimum 4 center legs to bear the weight of the bed as shown. For heavier loads, you can add more legs.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. 

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

bjswifty

Mon, 06/30/2014 - 04:45

Finished the bed last week, and thought since our stair well was larger than the average home, and with our high ceilings, we could move the frame upstairs with some help with my brother. We were wrong (however just a couple of inches from making it work), and ended up taking the frame apart, and screwing it all back together upstairs. We love the bed, the design is simple and I have received many compliments. We did not paint the bed, and decided to stain it, so we selected to use solid oak for the entire headboard, and for the 1x8 along the frame and front legs. They do not stock 2x4 in oak, so we had to glue/clamp some 1x4 together for the frame legs, this worked out better than I had hoped. We spent less than $500 all together for materials, but it was worth it, because now we have a very nice solid oak king size bed. (Headboard weighs roughly 150+ pounds). Thanks!

michaelwardle

Thu, 05/07/2015 - 10:48

does it matter on this plan if I use slates, they will run the length of the bed, most plans ive seen run the width of the bed frame. I have the frame built just wondering on the slats. and attatching the headboard to allow it to be removed is a challenge.

thanks Mike

frznwffls

Sun, 07/26/2015 - 18:22

I don't think slats would work very well to be honest because most of the time they're running from side to side and wouldn't get much support in the middle of the bed. We bought some plywood from Home Depot and cut the 2 pieces to 80x38 as a base

Price0909

Wed, 05/13/2015 - 09:25

Was going to use your cut list for the base bed and try to upholster it or paint it white to match a headboard we made but dont love.. havent decided.

Would it be better to run the 2x4's vertically and put a box spring on top Or should I add additional slats running horizontally.?

frznwffls

Sun, 07/26/2015 - 18:26

We solved the problem with bolting the headboard down by adding an extra 2x6 at the bottom where the 2x4 frame comes together with the headboard. We bolted that down and it's staying still there. 

 

We ran into another problem with stability though. We put on the 4 - 2x4 support legs on the bottom and now, if we get on the bed, it moves back and forth as if those legs are going to fall over like dominos. How did everyone else who built this fix those stability problems or what ideas do you guys have?

Price0909

Thu, 10/08/2015 - 18:32

We are in the process of buiding and my husband thinks that this wontbe stable enough for our heavy matress. Any thoughts ? Experrience wit this being a problem?

. Also thinking of added a ledger on the 80" long runs to have the 2x4 sit on to make it easier in the event we need to move. This way we can unscrew the cross beams from the inside rather then ruining the face board. 

ssweaser

Thu, 10/08/2020 - 16:39

Nice bed. Instructions need updates.
This is a very nice bed once put together. We opted for 2" x 4" top rail saddles for our framing to allow to easier breakdown for moving. We also used corner brackets in the outside corners of the bed, again to make it easier to break down for transport.

The headboard legs are not wide enough to allow space for the bolts to connect to the frame. We added an additional 2 x 4 piece on the inside of each one to provide space for the bolts. A horizontal 2 x 4 would do just as well, but added more weight to the already heavy headboard.

My thoughts on the headboard are that bead board could be used instead of the tongue and groove. This would decrease the weight of the headboard and potentially allow the use of 1 x 4's and 1 x 6's instead of the heavier 2 x 4's and 2 x 6's.

Unless you're using a box spring, slats will be needed. That added another 13 1 x 4's to the purchase list and it looks like they would offer the most support if running from head to foot board instead of side to side.

We are debating using 4 x 4 legs to add stability to the bed, but haven't got it all together yet to see if it's needed.