Free easy plans to build No Sew Upholstered Stools inspired by Pottery Barn Caden Nailhead stools.
1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x12 @ 18 1/2" long
Either use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws or 2 3/4" trim screws countersunk
4 – 2x2 @ 16 3/8” both ends cut parallel to each other, 5 degree bevel/5 degree angle off square, short point to long point
2 – 1x2 @ 8 5/8” Long point to long point, both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other
2 – 1x2 @ 14 7/8” Long point to long point, both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other
1 – 2x12 @ 18 1/2”
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
To cut legs accurately, set miter saw for a five degree bevel and five degree angle. Cut just enough off the end of the 2x2 to cut the angle into the end (less than 1”). Then just slide the board down 16 3/8” (long point to short point, so one end to the next along the edge) and cut. Slide down 16 3/8” and cut again. The slide and cut two more times until all four of your legs are cut. Once cut, line up so legs splay outward as shown in diagram. Mark the inside corners. With a five degree bevel/angle, you’ll be glad you did this – it can be hard to tell what way the legs go!
First Side Stretchers
Lay a board – even just the seat – down on your work surface. With the inside corners of legs facing upward and inward, rest on work surface, meeting up with the gray board. NOTE: on back edge, will not meet up because of angle cuts. Measure down and place top stretcher. Mark joints clearly, marking outside joint as well. Predrill holes – pocket holes would be great here – and attach with screws and glue. TIP: Check the bottom distance and top to make sure your legs are properly positioned. Repeat on opposite side.
It’s going to get a little tougher here because now we are working with a 3d stool base. And easy way to do this – especially if you are making multiples – is to cut a scrap 2x board (how about leftovers from the seat boards?) at 5 5/8” long. Then you can rest under the stretcher as you prepare your joint. Predrill holes – again, pocket holes would be great on the insides – and attach with screws. If you are using countersunk screws, you will need some long ones! NOTE: If you are using countersunk screws, you may consider using 2x2s for the stretchers just to give you a little board to screw into. This would not change the cut list.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.