Triple Pedestal Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 11/30/2018 - 11:42
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Free easy DIY plans to build a triple pedestal farmhouse table for $125. We love the open sides design for maximum leg room, and the beautiful pedestals.  It's all made from off the shelf lumber.  Step by step plans from

Build the matching bench with our free triple pedestal farmhouse table bench plans.

triple pedestal farmhouse table
triple pedestal farmhouse table medium wood stain
triple pedestal farmhouse table medium wood stain
triple pedestal farmhouse table medium wood stain
triple pedestal farmhouse table medium wood stain
triple pedestal farmhouse table medium wood stain

I collaborated with my DIY friend Ashley from Shanty2Chic for this plan.

We changed up the top a little to really show off those beautiful solid wood boards!

And got a little fancy with the legs to really make this table unique and full of character!


Here's from Ashley:

There is no way I could have a $1,000 (plus shipping and tax) dining table in our home with 2 boys and a toddlerWinking smile So, as always, I enlisted the help of our very sweet and talented friend, Ana White! She nailed it and after her awesome plans and my elbow grease, I now have a ridiculously gorgeous, expensive-looking, grand dining table and it only cost me $125!  Who would have thought that 2x4's and pine boards could be so fancy!  


Easy Modifications

It's easy to modify these plans!

farmhouse table modified double base

We love a smaller size with two bases.

We also love the angled 2x4 supports (instead of the curved pieces).  This would be much easier to build but looks just as nice.


triple pedestal farmhouse table plans
Dimensions shown above


Shopping List
  • 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 2x6 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (more if not using pocket holes - see plan notes)
  • 6 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 10 feet long*
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 10 feet long*
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 1/2” and 3” self tapping wood screws
  • 1 1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Wood glue

*decorative does not have to a solid wood board all the way down, you can piece shorter boards together

Cut List


  • 6 - 2x4 @ 21 3/4”
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 8 1/8”
  • 6 - 2x6 @ 34 1/4” (both ends beveled at 45 degrees, long point to long point, ends NOT parallel)
  • 12 - 2x8 @ 7 1/4” (cut out in arch shape)
  • 3 - 2x6 @ 36” (both ends beveled at 30 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends NOT parallel)
  • 3 - 2x6 @ 36 1/2”
  • 6 - 1x3 @ 5 1/2” (OR 1x6 @ 2 1/2”)
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 90 1/2”



  • 12 - 1x6 @ 47 3/4”
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 106”
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 33”
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 102 1/2”
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 39 1/2”
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 103”
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 40”
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

You'll need to make three of these. If you have a nailer, that will be the best way to go. Keep outside edges flush and use glue. TIP: Make sure your stretcher board fits in the middle opening.

Step 2

Next add the top and bottom.

Step 3

Now add the decorative pieces. You'll cut these with a jigsaw and sand smooth first before attaching.

Step 4

And then the base board.

Step 5

Attach board on top of leg pedestals with screws and glue.

Step 6

Adding feet will make your table sit on the six little feet - very handy if you have uneven floors. Then you can just shim the one foot not cooperating.

Step 7

Now it gets fun! Put the stretcher in place.

Step 8

And now let's move on to the table top. I highly recommend a Kreg Jig here.

Step 9

And the decorative aprons. Don't forget the glue here.

Step 10

Add the finishing touches here. Use glue and screws or nails. Predrill to avoid wood splitting.

Step 11

Now we can add the base!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type



Tue, 05/19/2015 - 13:49

This table is amazing, but I am concerned about wood movement in the table top (expansion/contraction overtime). This design doesn't seem to allow for that to happen and I worried it will split. Any ideas?


Mon, 05/16/2016 - 16:25

I've got same concerns. I'm about to attempt to build something inspired by this. I love the simplicity of the trestle legs; no mortise / tenon issues, etc. Though I'm going to use decorative bolts to attach the stretcher so I can dis-assemble easily to get it into my house in pieces.

For the top, (using 5/4 - that is 1 1/4" red oak), I'm thinking of joining with either dowel or beadlock tool with glue of course, then using breadboards to try to control for movement. That will be a pain, but I've seen some best practice methods for doing this by using mortise and tenon for the ends where you only dowel pin and glue the center tenon. The others get pinned using a technique called drawbored. I've not done this before and I'm not great with mortise / tenon, so going to practice on cheap wood first.

If you do some searches for "drawbored mortise tenon" and "breadboard mortise tenon" you'll find videos and blogs, etc. Looks like a real hassle, but I don't want stuff splitting apart, especially because I'm going to try to use  expansion slides in teh center; and tose have to e exactly parallel.


Tue, 04/05/2016 - 14:10

I could use some help with a more detailed plan of the table top.  This will be my first table project.  Not understanding the 1X's fitting with the 2X's.  Can anyone help????


Wed, 10/12/2016 - 19:38

I combined the versions of the table I have read in the comments and built it out of oak.  I turned out great after a rub-on poly finish and a good quality wax.  I built it for my wife's Christmas present in 2014.  Almost two years old and holding up great! 


Wed, 11/02/2016 - 16:09

This is a beautiful table and i cant wait to finish making it. That being said.....the shopping list for this plan is wrong. Im working on the legs right now and ive noticed that your shopping list is short a 2x6. After doing the math your shopping list provides about 456in of 2x6 but your cut list requires about 515in of 2x6. This is something you definitely want to update.


Mon, 07/31/2017 - 08:04

I was wondering if this base would hold the weight of a concrete top if I added 2x4s between the top of the legs


Wed, 03/21/2018 - 04:50

I am working on this table for my diningroom, but i am using either, Maple, or Oak Plywood for the top, which would work better since i am using stock lumber for the legs (basic pine), the stain will be speical walnut from Minwax. any help would be great since i have a foster home and so many kiddos.

The Toxophilite

Mon, 12/14/2020 - 15:33

Am I misunderstanding the instructions? It appears to me that the shopping list calls for 38ft of 2x6's (3@10ft and 1@ 8ft) but the cut list calls for 47ft of 2x6's. Seems like the shopping list should say 4 - 2x6's @ 10ft not 3.

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