Here are some photos of my closet.  I used these plans as a starting place.  If you look, you will see I essentially built three units, one for each wall, and attached them using "bridges".  I added drawers with soft glide closing slides for the rich feel.  On the main hanging rods, the ones they sell in your local hardware box store and quite expensive (about $30 for an 8' length), so I bought chainlink fence bars, which cost $10 for a 10' length, and took some 0000 steel wool to them, and then polished them.  They look like chrome.  For the corners, I could not find anywhere what I wanted, which was a rod that would mimic the shelf above it, which is two 45 degree turns.  So, I bought a 10' length of 1" electric conduit, and cut it in half and then put two 45 degree bends in each piece.  I did this right in the store with their conduit bender and it took all of like 10 minutes.  Then, when I got them home, I simply cut off the ends to the exact size needed in each corner.  I used a "U" socket on each end, and a hanging loop in the middle.  Both corners cost me less than $20.  The drawer glides were on Amazon, and were $120 for 15 pairs of soft-close glides with the brackets (Get the bracets, as they are not that expensive, and will make installing these glides much much easier.  

Another money saving thing I did was the double doors.  The store does not stock double doors, and they must be special ordered, at a cost of almost $275, and would take 4-6 weeks to get.  So instead, i bought two 24" single pre-hing interior doors, and removed the frame on each one where the door would latch.  I removed both headers as well, and used one of the side for the top.  I used a spring loaded ball socket for the less used door, and installed the indent plate for the ball socket where the latch would have gone if used as a side frame for the doorknob (I hope that made sense).  Basically, I put two 24" pre-hung doors together to make one double door.  It cost me $130 and a couple hours labor, to make a very nice double door. 

I used sanded birch plywood, all connected with Kreg-Jig screws and wood glue, stained with Minwax Jacobean, and used a satin clear on the main portion and semi-gloss on the drawer fronts for that "rich" look.  The entire closet cost me between $800 - $1,000, with everything, including the plywood, 1x2's, screws, stain, clear, drawer glides, handles, and misc.  

I would not have known where to begin without the help on this site, and once I got going, I was able to modify and improvise along the way  to fit my needs.   Thanks.

I guess the cabinet grade plywood edges are pretty smooth and don't need edge banding?  I've never worked with it.  I know using BC sanded plywood I'd have to band the edges to make them acceptable to some folks.

Awesome..

I have been looking for a room divider for my kids. Do you think this would do well on shaggy carpet? We live in an apartment and my kids share a room. This looks like it might work, with some modifications. What do you think?

Love it! Do you have an estimated cost for materials on this one? We are giving it serious consideration and are very new to all this! 

Hi Ana,
Can I use this plan as a room divider closet, like the one you built in your daughters room?
Thanks

Thanks for the ideas, I got sick of ordering expensive junk from the more well known companies online, so I bought a simple Kreg Pocket Hole Jig and educated myself, and for 80% less than the crap you can buy online I made my own custom closet, pantry and fridge cabinet :)
I have one simple questions ( I noticed other closets are the same from Ana White) why are the closets so narrow? I think for a shirt or jacket to hang you need at least 20 inches not 15, the hanger will hit the back wall. I've just been perplexed over this odd size of 15.5" The only benefit is you can rip a 4x8 plywood board in 3 pieces at 16" each, other than that I can't see why?
Thanks again