Fancy X Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 05/23/2019 - 11:19
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Build the Fancy X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s and lumber for $65.  A reader favorite, this table has been built thousands of times.  

We also have plans for a matching bench and lots more farmhouse furniture plans.

dark wood stained farmhouse table with X legs and cross bracing
side view of farmhouse table with cross bracing

Whitney from Shanty2Chic and I teamed up to help you get that designer look without the price tag! 

Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.

This is my very favorite build yet! I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight. Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!

Head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!

Thanks Whitney!!!

Pin For Later! 

Fancy X Farmhouse Table

dimensions diagram of farmhouse table with X bracing
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List

4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long

7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long

3” self tapping wood screws 

2 ½” pocket hole screws

2” finish nails

Cut List


  • 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
  • 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”


2 – 2x4 @ 65”

2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)

4 – 2x10 @ 96”

** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:

4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws

Step 2

Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side

Step 3

And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.

Step 4

And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8”  short point to short point. 

Step 5

Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends

Step 6

Followed by the little feet ...

Step 7

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges

Step 8

The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes.  But you will have to fill later with wood filler.

An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.

Step 9

And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.

If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.

Step 10

And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.

Step 11

For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


Stefan (not verified)

Thu, 08/30/2012 - 19:45

It looks like you could just halve all the width dimensions (instead of 4 - 2"x10" boards, use 2), and then the length and height can be done to your specifications. For length, instead of 8 feet long, I would go with 5 1/2 feet long (allowing enough room for the bench to slide under the table - somewhere around the length (65") of the bottom cross beam of the table - 2/3 of the length seems adequate). For the height, leave yourself enough leg room. Considering the table height is 30", I would get the bench height around 20" (use 2/3 - two-thirds - measurements).

I plan on making benches to these dimensions to match the table. I may tweak these numbers as I go, but they are somewhere in the ballpark.

Kimsims (not verified)

Tue, 06/05/2012 - 10:46

If someone makes this, can you please make a video of some of the more difficult steps? For instance, some of the diagrams don't specify where to put screws and it is confusing.

Heather Davis (not verified)

Tue, 06/05/2012 - 11:07

I LOVE this table, and I've been dreaming of an table like this for my patio. Do you have plans for benches that look similar to this? I found others on your website, but they don't "match". Which would be fine with me, just thought it would be cool to have similar benches too. Thanks!!!!

Milca (not verified)

Tue, 06/05/2012 - 15:37

Thinking of making it a little narrower and putting the brace to the back more so I can use this in my crafts room against a wall. Thank you Ana for the plans! We are renovating our whole house and a lot of my finishing touches ideas in the woodwork come from this site, and everyone loves the house :) (not verified)

Tue, 06/05/2012 - 23:33

You can also use bleach (household or pool) to accelerate the decomposition of the softer wood fibers. Apply the bleach, wrap the wood in Saran Wrap, and let the bleach do the work. After a day or so of soaking, unwrap and rinse the board; use a wire brush to remove the softened wood.

Soak a bat of 0000 (extra fine) steel wool in a 500-750ml jar full of vinegar (regular works fine, but "pickling vinegar" works better due to the higher acid content) overnight (8-12 hours). Pour through a coffee filter and then brush on your wood. Leave for 15 minutes and you'll see the wood grey. If it's not dark enough just repeat, but one application is generally plenty) Note: The liquid will still appear clear in the jar, that's OK....this process works through oxidization rather than pigments).

Jen Cunningham (not verified)

Thu, 06/07/2012 - 17:06

I have ALWAYS wanted a farmhouse table since there are 5 of us in the house and we do love to entertain at holidays too. I was excited to find this posted on Pinterest and even MORE excited when I showed my husband and he's game for building one. Someone had posted and asked about there being possible instructions for benches. Do any instructions like that exist (yet)?? Thanks so much!!

Micole (not verified)

Fri, 06/15/2012 - 08:27

Could you tell me what you would suggest changing to make this a 6ft table? I was planning to take the difference out of the 2x4s that join the ends, but then the cross braces wouldn't fit. Sorry if this is Something obvious, I am new to this kind of thing!

Thanks :)

Melissa R. (not verified)

Mon, 06/18/2012 - 14:02

I was thinking the same thing to put this in my dining room, but figured I could adjust the angle of the cross braces so that there is 12" between them on the bottom brace and it should work. The original table shows the cross braces with a lot more room between them so I think it would work fine.

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