Community Brag Posts

We live in a termite infested area and as such were nervous about putting wood in contact with the ground. We modified these plans to sit on top of a welded bar frame that is moveable and stands a meter high. The measurements are custom to our welded frame but the shape was based on these plans as was the construction process followed. We dont have a worry about predators so have used a design that doen not have a closed floor - our girls can simply fly or walk up the ladder to the roost and are able to leave the coop when ready in the morning without us opening doors. We are also in a warm environment thus an enclosed coop is not needed.

So far they are happy and are happily laying in the two egg boxes (We left the remaining space closed internally so that we can use it for storage) and as there is no bottom to the coop they poop straight into the run and onto the sand floor.

They are not free ranging yet as we are nervous of our dogs chasing them but once we are happy to let them free range we will use the gate built into the welded run.

Thank you Ana and lady goats for this design - I spent hours (and hours) researching and reading and looking at coop designs before deciding that this cute number was the one we wanted.

From me and my happy hens, thanks again!

Made from : http://ana-white.com/2010/12/plans/corner-cupboard

My husband and I love entertaining, but our small kitchen table was just not cutting it for both our space and our hosting abilities. We decided that instead of searching for the perfect table and spending a ton of money, we would just build our own table. We found that Ana's Rustic Table plans best matched what we were looking for, but my husband being the detailed person that he is didn’t just want to take her measurements and run with them. So we taped off the floor around our old table to decide how large we wanted our own table to be.

We basically followed Ana White’s plans to a T. Until it got to the legs. Ana White used 2×4′s for her legs, but we decided we liked the look of chunkier 4×4 legs instead. We also did things in a different order, like attaching the legs to the apron before attaching the table top. This did make everything way easier when it came to painting, no tape needed. We also stained the bottoms and sides of the tabletop boards before attaching them to the apron. After the top was attached I stained the top side and applied about 3-4 coats of Matte polyurethane. I like the matte finish because it doesn’t add any sheen and makes things look even more rustic; however, we’ll have to add a regular coat of poly as well because the matte is too soft for something that will see such rough use over the years. And now for what you’re all wondering about, how much did this project cost us?

• Wood – $86
• Stain (Dark Walnut) – $7.77
• Paint (Olympic Snow Storm) – $11.97
• Polyurethane (Rustoleum Matte finish) – $11.93
• If that is all we needed to buy then our total would have been: $117.67.

My hubby is 6'5'' tall. Since most matresses are 80 inches long, he mostly ends up with his feet hanging out of the bed (since you don't lay your head down at the very beginning of the mattress, right?). So I tried to solve this problem by making the bed 4'' longer than the plans suggested. I added 2'' of foam on each end of the bed, so now its 84'' long and my hubby fits perfectly!

Thanks for the great plans, I had a blast building my own bed!

We needed a bench to hold shoes and bags on the foyer, and this plan fit the bill. I stretched the bench one foot so 3 kids could sit on it and to add one more cubby. I used pocket holes everywhere I could, so I had to modify the assembly order. We're excited to start using our new bench!

I used elements of both the Emme Twin Bed and Farmhouse Storage Bed to create this perfect bed for my daughter. Thank you so much for your fantastic plans Ana!

So glad these plans were posted so that I could build my own outdoor sectional.  I built two armless and two corner/end pieces.  I used cedar with American Walnut stain and clear/satin spar urethane.  I purchased the cushions online.  They only had 24x24"; so for the back cushions, I used a seam ripper to open the cushion, cut the foam and extra fabric, and re-sew.

This is an adaption of the shoe shrine shelves. Since I didn't have a closet or other room than the bedroom to put these, I put them on their side. I modeled these off the shoe shrine shelves.

Each cubby is 11 3/4 deep x 8 x8 for the long version. The 2nd version I made was only 48 inches wide and did not divide well so I simply left the center cubby wider. I also made the 48" version to have different height shelves for purses in the middle and flats on the bottom.

I basically flipped the shoe shrine's on their sides and added LED lights. This also inspired a tall version for a cubby we had upstairs.

I used a panel saw to cut the plywood and then assembled with a Kreg pocket hole jig for horizontal pieces and biscuits for the top and the dividers. I did not want to fill the holes or I would have used Kreg instead of the biscuits.

I used 3/4" paint grade plywood and a 1/4inch back panel.

LED lights came from LED wholesalers on amazon. This step requires electrical knowledge! Not much more than a wiring a light but do not attempt if you are not qualifed to do so. LED strings required a fine tip soldering iron, wire and heat shrink.

Love this plan and the table and bench turned out exactly as I hoped.  I did it by myself except for a little heavy lifting from my sweetheart. I researched the finish online and I am so happy with the results.

This was my first attempt at a farm table. I found the fancy x plan for inspiration. The length is 6ft. I had to modify all of the measurements. All of the boards came off my grandad's old barn. The posts are laminated together from guide posts from his corral. There is a lot of history and character to the table. I did have to make the bench to match it. I'll post pictures of that soon. Most importatnly, my wife loves it!!!! Happy wife, happy life!!!

Love my new bar stool, now to build 3 more.    I think it turned out great.

This closet tower is from the Craft Room Storage Tower plan, and made mostly with left overs from other projects. I wanted a shallow tower storage just deep enough to hang pants and slacks in, and to use a 12" wide door I already had in my garage. At Target I found some kid-size hangers that were just the right size - about 12" wide. Trouser hangers are about this same width, but they weren't available in-store so I went with what they had. The only things I bought for this project are the knob, hinges, some 1x2's, and the hangers. The sides are from a lengthwise half-sheet of C/D plywood, ripped down to 12" strips on the table saw, with 1x2 edge joined at the back to create a "toe kick" to clear the baseboard. The front is trimmed out in 1x2 with a scrap of 1x3 to trim the top. The removable closet poles are from a flagpole, and the ends are held in place with some 1/2" craft boards. The back is 1/4" plywood. The longest part of this project was the sanding, because the plywood wasn't the pretty kind - used lots of wood filler on the knots and as a grain filler, then sanded it a lot. This project took about 9 hrs total, (sanding took the longest), construction with the Kreg jig and nailgun was very quick, and then paint and adding the door and poles. The removable shelf was added as an afterthought and is a scrap of plywood, with some S4S to hold it up, and a 12" scrap of moulding across the front of the shelf. It is 82" tall, 13 1/2" wide, and 14 1/4" deep. It's a perfect pair with the 6-cube tower that I built from Ana's cube tower plans a couple of years ago.