Community Brag Posts
Mountain Farmhouse Bedroom
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Who says you can’t go mountain farmhouse? Used Ana’s plans for bed, nightstands and dresser and couldn’t be happier!
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Coastal Mirror
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My wife and I found some grass clothe mirrors at a local home decor store that we loved, but they were either too big or small for our space. (Not to mention they ran $300-$450!!!) Using the same height/width ratio I built my own.
For this project we used:
-spare 1x4 and 1x6 pine boards left over from other projects (SORRY, I do not have the cut list)
-brad nail gun
-miter saw
-piece of 1/4" plywood (to hold the mirror in on the back)
-8 wood screws (to fix the plywood to the frame)
-an old bathroom mirror
-glass cutter (~$6-8 at Home Depot)
-gloves (for cutting and handling the glass)
-olive oil (for lubricating the glass cutter)
-grass clothe (had to buy it online by the roll ~$75, only used half)
-scissors
-spray adhesive (~$6-8 at Home Depot)
-picture hanger hooks (~$1 at Home Depot)
I spent more time thinking about how to construct the frame than actually making the cuts and building it, which took about an hour. I then spent about a month waiting for the grass clothe to arrive in the mail. Then it was about another hour cutting and affixing it to the frame with my wife.
Simple Modern Toy Box with Lid
Simple Modern Toy Box with Lid
-made with pine.
- paint was matched at Sherwin Williams to other furniture.
DIY Garage Workshop Bench
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I came across the plans for this workbench - exactly what I need for my basement laundry area. I wanted a nice flat space where I can fold laundry. I started yesterday and put together the legs and frame. I'll pickup a countertop or nicer finished plywood for the bottom and top shelves. Here is the link to the page with plans and pics https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/workbench-get-job-done
Thanks so much for this great project idea, plans and instructions! Super helpful! I can't wait to finish it - I'll post final pic when it's complete.
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Country Entertainment Center
Another piece that my wife saw online that she liked. We wanted a new entertainment center for the house. I looked at the photo and drew up the plans in my head and got to building. This was a one day build and came together really nice.
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Finishing project
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I decided to post this project as I know there is room for more information on finishing. I know I can be overwhelmed with all the different types of finish work out there as well as their associated tips/tricks, which are often not on the manufacture's directions!
My wife and I had some black furniture, which we were tired of. Some of it started from my bachelor days and some came later just to match things we already have. I really wanted to build new stuff for our living room, but it seemed like a little a bit of a waste, considering we liked it, minus the color!
Even though it was all sold as "better that Ikea" furniture, it was all pretty cheaply made with weak quarter turn screw joints and MDF.
The first thing I did was to take each piece apart and glue, pocket screw and nail the heck out of each piece.
I than scuff up the finish (committed now :-) ) with some 220 sandpaper. While my wife and I decided what color we wanted I looked into oil based paint. Even though it usually can't be found at HD or Lowe's a guy who worked in the paint department and was a professional painter for 30 years advised me to find some.
We both agreed that Latex paint never really seems to dry all the way, especially for a surface, which will have glasses and what not placed on them.
I got some oil based paint from a "paint store" and also bought a product called Penetrol to put in the paint. The Penetrol "watered down" the paint to allow more working time and avoid brush marks. I really tried to avoid usually a brush, and mainly used a very tight , high quality foam roller. It really work great and I just made sure I covered each area all the way from one side to the other. I would start with less Penetrol than they say. My paint was like soup and although it worked great, I figured you can always add more, but you can't take it out!!
The oil paint took about two days to dry in my garage (very cold now) and than I moved it into my house for the rest of the time. Once it was "cured" 3-4 days, it formed a shell like surface, which did not require any poly at all!
I feel it's about as good as you can get without having a sprayer. It was definitely more clean up as I needed paint thinner for the brushes I did use, but I stored them in zip loc bags in my garage refrigerator in between coats, until I was completely done!!
I hope this post helps someone out there!!
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Reclaimed X Base Dining Table
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Our reclaimed beam wood tables are built of beautifully finished, solid reclaimed fir timbers from 50+ year old barns in the Fraser Valley.
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2x4 Hall Tree
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Farmhouse Hall Tree by Leila Adams
Surfer Shack
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My buddy wanted this bed from Pottery Barn Kids but didn't want to spend $1300. It cost him $250 in materials and i built it for $300. So you DIY'ers could do it for $250. We also adjusted the size to fit a full size mattress.
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Comments
Sun, 09/23/2012 - 14:42
Double top l shaped loft bed
Both my boys want to sleep up top I have a nice corner window seal that I'd like to put the l shaped loft at mid height double twin any suggestions also would like the entry on both ends so my 9 yr old can descend without waking my middle son would like a detachable slide in the middle
Recycle Console
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This is my attempt at Ana's recycle console project from her new book "The Handbuilt Home". I made a couple of small changes to the pattern but for the most part stayed on course with her plans.
This piece of furniture is now being used at our cottage. I used 3/4 inch birch plywood for the cabinet and shelf and i used 1/2 inch MDF for the foldout compartment. I decided to use the MDF as it was a bit lighter than the plywood so not as much weight on the door when tilting it out.
The color is from Martha Stewart and is called Cayman Blue.
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Cement top modification
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Instead of a wood top I used 2x 3/4" sheets of plywood plus 1/2" backer board to create a thicker top and used Ardex feather finish cement in 4 coats sanded and finished with Mexeseal sealant, recommended 4 coats of semi-gloss plus 2 coats of satin to get a matte finish (recommended by manufacturer) I followed the concrete countertop blog from "Young House Love" but used a different sealant when I contacted the safe coat manufacturer and they recommended their Mexeseal product.
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Safe coat Mexeseal Sealant (4 coats semi-gloss plus 2 coats satin for a matte finish)
Stain on base: Minwax weathered oak and dark walnut
Poly on base: 2 coats of Minwax satin poly
Hall Tree Bench with Shiplap Back
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I made this for a cousin, but now I think I am going to need to make one for myself too! I used shiplap for the back instead of plywood. It cost a little more but was less effort than cutting the lines into the plywood. Plus it was already finished.
Simple Modern Outdoor Double Lounger
It took about 2 hours to build it. We have a large family, so we put 2 extra legs on each, just in case. We had problems with the hinges. I think we bought 3 or 4 different hinges before we found something that worked for us. But the end result was wonderful!
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Pastors Kids
I built 2 beds by doubling the purchase list, then cutting 2 of everything. The hardest part was figuring out what to cut from each piece of wood. It would have been nice to have a detailed cut list so it would be easier to not waste any wood. As it turned out, I needed to purchase one extra 2x4 to finish the job. Not too much trouble. To cut cost, I bought 2x4 studs and had to dig through a half of a pallet of them at Lowes to find the straight ones, and even then some still had a bit of a twist. It's hard to find straight 2x4's.
On the landing, I predrilled countersunk screw holes about 3/4" deep, then after attaching them, I cut plugs, glued them in and sanded it down to a smooth finish. After paint, you can't tell how they are attached.
Having a chop saw stand was great because I could set up a cut length and then quickly cut all the boards I needed for that length. I also used a jig for my drill press and set up to drill all the holes at one time for the landing boards.
The KREG pocket hole joint works wonderfully well in this application. Just make sure you get the right length and diameter screws. The first box of screws I bought were too big around to fit the hole drilled.
As you can see, there are two happy kids that never want to get down off of their beds.
Thanks for the plans, it was a great experience.
Andy
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Comments
Tue, 03/11/2014 - 12:23
Cut Optimizer Tool
I found this free cut optimizer tool online, it can break down optimal combination of cuts per board. Just make sure you put it some kind of "Width allowance cutting a kerf", so that it includes what you lose at each cut. You also just have to do one type of board at a time (like 1x2s) but you can put in different board lengths so that it'll tell you how to best use scrap. It's a nice tool.
In reply to Cut Optimizer Tool by balloongal247
Wed, 03/12/2014 - 08:27
Cut Optimizer Tool
Thanks so much. I should have thought about that as there are so many tools available on the web. I'm going to be building more of these so that will come in handy.
Sliding Door Console
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I modified the plans to have three compartments instead of four. Also, the hardware was a challenge. Tip: use a wheel that has an internal bearing.
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3 Farmhouse Nightstands
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Each nightstand features different hardware and finish.
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Mimi's (Free!) Storage Bench
I've been looking for a bench for our hallway for months and have yet to find one I love, but I did fall in love with Mimi's Storage Bench and Hall Tree.
I was determined to make this bench for free. My husband scavenged construction sites for salvage and brought me home quite a bit of scrap. Once I had a nice assortment of boards, I began the job of making them fit the specs. This was much more time consuming than purchasing boards that were the right size to start with. I got quite familiar with the planer (I had to plane down 2x's to 1x's) and even faced the terrifying table saw to rip a few boards down to size.
The lid was made from an old shelf and the inside panels are an old painting from art school--on masonite--that I finally brought myself to part (with). I already had the paint left over from a table I made over, so that was also free!
It didn't take much convincing to get my husband to pick up a pockethole jig. He's been wanting one himself. It was actually a lot more fun and much easier to use than I expected.
Overall, I'm very pleased with the way it turned out. It's made out of some pretty rough wood, so there are a few holes I'll go back and fill in the future--or maybe not. There are also some rough spots and less-than-true boards, but not bad for a free piece of furniture.
This was my first big woodworking project. It was a lot of fun and I gained a lot of knowledge and confidence that I'll use to build more ambitious projects in the future. I think woodworking is actually easier than sewing because boards generally don't stretch, shift, snag, and unravel while you're working.
I plan to scale this plan down, add some safety hinges, and notch the board under the front of the lid to make a bench/toy box for my little girl's room.
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Comments
Cedar Fence Board Planter Box
Using Ana's 10 dollar raised garden planter box idea, I made my own using the cedar fence boards and then used 2 x 3 x 8 studs for the L corner supports and mid center support along with top rail. This photo is the first 3, I will have a total of 6 boxes. Will post more as I progress.
I got the 6' x 5 1/2 " x 5/8 " cedar fence boards at the orange box
I used 2 x 3 x 8 boards for the corners the middle support and the top rail. I got these at the blue box
I used 2 " and 2 1/2" exterior star bit screws.
NOTE: I pre drilled holes in the fence boards and screwed all the boards to the L corner sections from the inside out, so the screws are on the inside of the box, they did not poke through the 2 x 3 boards.
Instead of trying to measure how far off the side of the board I needed to go to match the vertical 2 x 3 boards, I just cut 10 11 inch long 2 x3 sections, and then used the 2 1/2" screws and made 4 L corner pieces the shorter side I screwed the short 3 foot length fence boards too, once I had both my short sections screwed to the L corner sections, I then stood one up and screwed 2 of the 6' length boards to the L corner section. Then the other side.
Once all 4 walls were done, I would then measure 3' in the middle of the 6' long side runs, and put in an additional 2 x 3 x 11" again screwed from the inside of the box out.
Now that all the 2 x 3 x 11" L corners and side support sections were connected to the fence boards I then cut 76 1/4" 2 x3 boards one for each length run, and then 2 26" 2 x 3 sections that were all cut on 45 degree angle to complete the top rail.