Community Brag Posts

Thank you for your plans on the Fancy X Farmhouse Table. Those where the foundation from which I built this new table for my family. Although tweaked a little my inspiration was a direct result of the beautiful table you built. 

The legs of this table are made from douglas fir purchased at my local big box home improvement store.  The table top is made of hard maple that i purchased from a local mill.  I modified the dimensions from the original plan because i really liked the look of the 4x4 legs.  The douglas fir is relatively inexpensive material and because the legs for the most part unseen once you have chairs.  I chose hard maple because i have three kids under the age of 6 that can destroy anything in their path. So having a kitchen table that could double as a nuclear bomb shelter was high on my priority list.

I recommend you purchase your wood from a local mill.  There are few technical terms you will need to learn before heading over to purchase your wood stock.  For example, lumber mills sale their wood stock by the board foot (width x length x depth) and if you want a 1 inch thick board you will need to ask for 5/4 board (pronounced five quarters) Marc Spagnolia (aka: The Wood whisperer) has a great 5 minute video that gives you all the information you need to walk into a lumber yard with confidence and purchase what you need.  KEY POINT: make sure your boards are straight and square. If your boards are not straight and square, it will cause you problems down the stretch.  In order to achieve this you must joint and plain your boards.  Since I do not have a jointer or plainer, I asked the lumber mill if they could help me out and they were nice enough to do it for an extra $25 dollars.  Well worth it in my opinion.

I did purchase one tool for this job, a biscuit joiner.  A biscuit joiner makes small cuts in the sides of your boards.  Small wooden biscuits are inserted in these slots and help keep your boards level when you glue up your boards.  They do not add any strength to your glue joints, but will save you a lot of time sanding your table top perfectly flat. I won’t go into a lot of detail on how to glue your boards up.  There are lot of great YouTube videos that give pretty good advice on the glue-up of your table top.

After you get your table top glued up, it is time to sand.  KEY POINT: Sand by sight, not by feel.  Your table top may feel really smooth to the touch, but when you go to stain, small swirl marks can make your final product look lackluster.  Invest the time in sanding.  I suggest getting some hallogen lights and put at the end of your table.  These lights help you see those imperfections that need to be sanded out. Also, I recommend using an orbital sander.  Be sure not to put any downward pressure, let the sander do the work.  Putting downward pressure is so tempting, but ultimately causes deep gauges in your wood that take even longer to sand out.

So one thing that I did learn when doing this project was that hard maple is one of the toughest types of wood to stain.  The wood is a very dense with tight porosity. This is what makes hard maple extremely durable and pretty, but unfortunately very difficult to stain. Most stains leave the maple looking blotchy (dark and light color all over the boards).  It was really frustrating trying to figure out how to stain this type of wood.  I searched the entire internet looking for tips on staining hard maple with very little luck.  So if you’re interested in using this wood…here is my playbook that produced pretty good results.  First of all you should really avoid the pigment type stains.  These are your run of the mill stains you find at your big box store.  I also had terrible luck with gel stains as well.  The best way to stain maple I found was to use a dye stain.  Dye stains have the ability to penetrate into the tight grain structure of the hard maple and leave you with a pretty nice color.   I used general finishes “dark brown” dye stain with the following steps:

• Sand up to 120 grit, then take a shop vac ( I know it sounds crazy) and vacuum all the dust up from the top of your table.  The shop vac pulls all the dust out of the pores and allows for better penetration.  Then take a tac clothe and wipe down your table top.  I used Minwax sanding sealer 1 to 1 ratio of sanding sealer to denatured alcohol.  This helps prevent blotchiness.  Please note that I tried prestain conditioner, dewaxed shellac and a few other products, but got significantly better results with the sanding sealer…..
• After letting the sanding sealer dry for 2-3 hours, I then proceeded to make 4 passes over the table with 220 grit sandpaper with my orbital sander. I proceeded this sanding with the shop vac and tac clothe wipe down of the entire table top.   I also did a slight wipe down with a clothe towel and denatured alcohol.  This helped raise the grain slightly/open up the pores of the wood.
• Finally I took a spray bottle with my stain and sprayed over the entire table top putting a nice even coat of stain.  This really worked well as my table was 7 foot wide. I quickly and gently wiped the excess stain off the table.

The results were really great.  The dye stain makes the figure of the wood “pop” and the sanding sealer keeps the color relatively even across your top.

For the top coat, I started out putting minwax high gloss poly.  I put several coats of this poly on the table, sanding with 400 grit sandpaper in between coats.  I really like this product.  I recommend putting it in the Fridge for 4-6 hours before you start working with it.  It will give you more time before the product sets up.  My final 2 coats I used behlen’s rock hard urethan satin varnish.  This product was truly rock hard, but once you put it on it sets up really fast…then it takes a long time to completely set up.  You had better work pretty fast using this stuff.  I used a roller to roll on all of my poly applications then evened it out with a really good paint brush. I built up layers of poly starting out with high gloss first, then switching to satin.  If you start out with satin and apply lots of coats, it can give a plastic type appearance to your finish that I do not like.

After 3 days of letting my final coat dry, I rubbed out the finish by taking 4 (0000) steel wool and a product called mohawk wool lube paste.  The steel wool evens out the finish and gives it an even sheen throughout the entire table top (see pictures).  The wool lube keeps you from burning through the finish with your steel wool.  Head over to Jon Peters Art & Home and he has videos on how to do this.

Hopefully this post helps some people. Let me know if you have questions.

Instead of building a free-standing, 4-poster Pergola, I attached one side directly to the house. There are various Pergola design types and shapes. Simply Google for "pergola" images and decide which design you like best, or combine design ideas together (as I did).

Couple things to consider:
A: Is your Pergola more for decorative purposes or actual shade?
My design was more for actual shade (but with a decorative design), which is why I added the 1in x 12in x 12ft Pine boards between the cross beams at the very end (last picture). If your design is more for decorative purposes, you can space out your support beams and cross beams wider (using less wood and money).

You can also choose to use 2x4s as your support beams with 2x2 cross beams on top (essentially furring strips) either close together or spaced farther apart. This would also reduce the overall cost of your Pergola and make it much lighter as well. I chose to use all 2x6s for both support beams and cross beams.

B: What path does the sun follow across the sky over your Pergola?
If the sun passes directly over your Pergola and you want a lot of shade, you'll obviously need to consider this in your design (i.e., more cross beams that are close together).

C: Do you want your support beams and cross beams to inter-lock (by cutting square notches and assembling them like linking logs), or simply stacked on top of each other? (Again, Googling for Pergola images will help you see the differences in designs.)

I chose to interlock all of my beams by cutting notches and fitting them together. Obviously more time consuming to measure each notch, cut, and chisel them but the stability of inter-locking beams should hold up a little better in the strong winds of Las Vegas.

HOW TO (abbreviated)

Overall Pergola Dimensions: 10ft Height, 12x12ft

Tip: Paint or stain all your wood prior to assembly. Much easier. You can always touch-up scuffs and scrapes after it's built.

1. 2x6x12 installed directly onto the house (thru the stucco into the studs) using 3/8in. x 5in. lag screws. (Tip: Seal the top edge of the 2x6x12 that's against the stucco so water doesn't run behind it and down into the lag screw holes.)
2. Install the 2x6 Double Shear Hangers (as many as you need for your design)
3. 4x4 post anchors secured directly into the cement patio using Tapcon 3/16 in. x 2-3/4 in.cement anchor screws.
4. 4x4x10ft posts screwed on top of the anchors. Ensure level on all sides (use a partner to help hold the posts).
5. Attach the front and side 2x6 beams to the 2 posts (again, use a partner to help hold posts while you're up on the ladder screwing your beams to the posts)
6. Attach the remaining 2x6 support beams.
7. Attach the 2x6 cross beams on top (whether you inter-lock them by cutting notches or simply resting them on top, be sure to toe-nail screw them in with 2in exterior screws).
8. Lay 1x12x12ft pine boards on top in between the cross beams and secure with 2in exterior wood screws.
9. Construct the post bases ("sleeves" or "leggings") which greatly adds to the look, as outlined in the "Weatherly Pergola" plans.
10. Touch-up paint / stain any areas you need.

Modified for standard king bed.

I used the basic plan by Ana, but modified it for the size I needed. Its 2x12 pine with english chestnut stain and tung oil (formby's) finish. I did use 4x4 posts for the legs instead of 2- 2x4's. notching out was the most difficult part. (Should have watched the video by Ana 1st. Lol). I did want some over hang so I cut the leg notches 1/4 shallow so there would be detail. I regret not using the kreg jig on the top, as I have much bigger gaps than I like! But I started buying better tools during this build when I realized mine were not getting the job done. And it definitely makes a huge difference!!! I still have to finish the benches. Just trying to find the time. I can't wait to start the next project!

Very straightforward, but extremely functional

I needed a cabinet for my $300 bathroom remodel that fit in with the rustic, handmade vibe. I sort of hoard old windows so this was a perfect opportunity to use one. The full details and tutorial are on my blog- http://OnBlissStreet.com

Video of the Build:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xH3ABM3X3uE

Build Instructions:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Garden-Trellis/

This adjustable garden trellis for cucumber/pea/bean vines is a quick project for the vegetable garden. The trellis gets the vines off the ground and is more productive in less space. No giant rotting cucumbers to find three weeks after the rest have matured. It is made from small lumber and twine. Paint is optional but gives a nice pop of color. Just in time for the rapid growth of summer!

A variation of the simple bunk beds made with old growth lumber stained with "honey" minwax stain and topped with 2 coats of satin minwax polyurethane .  Each step on the ladder made with dado cuts, glued, and screwed and secured to each bed to add strength and take up less floor space. Used 8 inch HeadLOK screws to attach head and foot boards to posts and 2 7/8 inch to secure steps on the ladder as well as top boards to the head and foot boards. I cut down x4 HeadLOK bolts to 2 inches to secure rail to top bed so they didn't go through other side. Utilized non mortise bed rail brackets for easy assembly and disassembly; holds strong with no wobble even before ladder and plywood bottom. 3/4 plywood bottom screwed to the rails to better support mattress and add ridgidity. I screwed them so the bottom child doesn't push up on the mattress for the top child. All screws with the exception of the HeadLOK were counter sunk for a flush finish. All to say? This thing is strong and turned out beautifully. 

Two years ago my college roommate & fraternity brother passed away of cancer. When his wife contacted me and another of my brothers about building a loft bed for his daughter’s 12th birthday - we jumped at the chance. With mom’s input, we decided on the Chelsea bed design with a few modifications: full size, no decorative feet (for stability) & an extra desk portion. (The design was inspired by the Pottery Barn Teens Chelsea Vanity Loft Bed.) We ended up using ¾” thick white shelf boards instead of 1x12s for the panels and shelves & 15” wide shelf board for the extra desk portion as well as plywood on the back of half the selves & desk area. Used 2x3s instead of 2x2s as suggested. We added a few pieces of quarter round & lattice molding to give a nice finishing touch between the bed & bookshelf/desk and a full length mirror on the bookshelf end. We were going to paint everything white, but after seeing the wood trim against the white, the daughter decided she liked that look, so only select pieces of the wood were painted. Most importantly, she loves it. She has a small 10x10 room which made getting a full shot of the bed difficult.

Total cost of lumber, pocket screws, plugs, primer & miscellaneous was about $350. It took a week of evenings pre-cutting and some sub assembly then a Saturday to build and paint.

My roommate was a great friend. If there is one thing his life showed me, is that life is short – some lives shorter than others. If you make a difference for someone else, you will make a difference in yourself and the world becomes a better place. Make the decision to spend time with the ones you love & care for, you won’t regret it.

Built the Hailey Storage Bed as a full sized bed. I used paneling on the head board and foot board for more detail as well as adding quarter round where the paneling meets the trim. I also added an extra header on the head and foot board and added 6 inches to the foot board.

I'm so thankful for these plans! I love how these beds turned out, my daughters love them too! Whenever they have friends come over, this is the first place all of them want to go (not necessarily a good thing, I know).

I wrote about the project on my blog: sharethepants.blogspot.com

This is my third project that I've attempted since finding this amazing website and it's certainly my favorite!

I ended up leaving off the pergola due to an overactive climbing two year old. We are planning on adding some additional decorations as we have ideas. Mailbox and house numbers on on their way.

I used these plans and modified the height to create functional countertop and shelving in my garage. I added a little face framing too. Thank you for the inspiration Ana!

I wanted to use our laundry basket dresser as a collector for dirty laundry in our bathroom, and wanted it to have doors so it would blend in better. I also made the shelf above for our towels. It is painted white with a faux-zinc finish on the top. I made the top slightly larger so it would overhang and added cute little bun feet. My talented friend Carli helped me build the doors (and by helped I mean I handed her things while she impressed me with all her tools and skills!) and frame.

I built ledge shelves for our kitchen using reclaimed wood I painted teal, then silver, then flat black (Napoleon).

Love having them. :)

DIY grid mirror. Used exact plan. 

I built this cabinet to store magazines and diapers (towels when the time comes) in the small 1/2 bath.

The top was made with left over oak pieces from when I ripped out the carpet and 2x12 stairs and replaced with oak treads.

Rustic X-Console Table made from just 2x6s striped in half to make the legs instead of using 2x4s and cutting down a 2x6 to 1 1/2in cuts to make 1x1 stripes.  I used 3/4in sanded plywood for the shelves. Everything was put together with Kreg jig screws and wood glue. Stain was applied using an air compressor and spray gun to spray a even coat of stain in sections at a time, while the stain is still wet, I wipe off the excess stain with a clean rag leaving an even wood stain finish results. This cuts the staining from what would normally take hours of painful hand staining to just minutes with a spray gun. After the stain drys, I go over the table with either fine wool pad or 1000 grit sand paper to remove any rough spots. I then apply the polyurethane with the spray gun as well. Once that dries, I go over the table again with 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper leaving a ultra smooth even finish. I use a total of 6 (2x6 white pine boards) striped to needed sizes and half of (4x8 sanded 3/4in plywood) for this project. I had to modify the demensions for the different sizes of cuts, but overall saving money instead of buying the individual 2x4s,1x1s, and solid pine boards. It takes a bit longer but well worth it.