4x4 Truss Beam Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 09/13/2018 - 10:03
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Build the truss beam farmhouse table! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

ana white truss beam table farm style

This beautiful solid wood table is sturdy and substantial.  Built using off the shelf lumber, we love the truss beam detailing and angled legs.  It's a beautiful table that will add that rustic look to your dining room.

We also have available the matching Truss beam bench plans

farm table benches

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic loved our Providence Table, but wanted a bigger version for indoor use, built using real 4x4 beams.

Here's from Whitney:

"Oh how I LOVE a great DIY dining table.  Restoration Hardware wants $3000 for theirs, and I built mine for around $100 in wood.  This table is big and beautiful, and I can't wait to serve my entire family at it!"

There's a ton of different ways this table could have been put together, but Whitney choose to use a Kreg Jig HD.  Because the 4x4 is so big, it won't fit in the jig, so Whitney's solution was to use a clamp.  

Whitney has provided lots more details on how she built this table and lots more pictures right here - please take a second to stop over and check it out!

And of course, the plans follow!


XO Ana

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Truss Beam Table

truss beam table dimensions
Dimensions shown above


Shopping List

5 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long or stud length

2 - 2x10 @ 12 feet long (tabletop boards - can be cut in half at store for easier transport)

1 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long (cut breadboards out of this board - can also use a 2x8 or 2x12)

Whitney used 2 1/2" Kreg HD Screws and a Kreg HD to build this table

You'll also need 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to put the tabletop together and to attach the tabletop to the aprons

Cut List

2 - 4x4 @ 35"

4 - 4x4 @ 25 3/8" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 28 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 65"

2 - 4x4 @ 26 1/8" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 2x4 @ 65"

4 - 2x10 @ 68 1/2" (tabletop boards)

2 - 2x10 @ approx 37" (cut breadboard ends to fit)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Build two of the leg sets out of the 4x4s. Once you get one built, built the other on top of it so they match perfectly.

Step 2

Attach the two legs together with the center beams.

Step 3

Position the cross supports inside the table and attach to the top and bottom beams.

Step 4

Add the 2x4 aprons underneath for added support.

NOTE: We kept these flat to keep the look the Shanty girls were after, but to make this table stronger (especially if you were modifying the table to be longer) I recommend attaching the 2x4s vertically instead of flat. If you go this route, make sure you predrill 1 1/2" pocket holes facing upward in the aprons to attach the tabletop in the next step.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Mon, 10/14/2019 - 18:22

Thank you for the plans to this table.  I used a mix of Kreg, biscuit, and mortise and tenon joinery to assemble the parts.  Also used a router, jointer and planer to mill the boards prior to assembly.  I've made the table in cedar, douglas fir, pine, and now oak.   


Mon, 10/28/2019 - 09:34

Truss is backwards.  FYI

I am a concrete furniture fabricator and made this base for a customer for a concrete dining table.  This design probably suffices for a wooden top but if you are making something heavier reverse the 45 degree supports.  The weight from the center of the table needs to be carried down to the legs, not the center of the bottom 4x4 stringer.   Aesthetically the plans might look nicer reversed but as a former general contractor I couldn't bring myself to build a backwards truss even if my top wasn't 400 pounds.  That said, as designed here the two 45's do provide the the second function of sheer bracing (think rocking from end to end) so you want them installed securely.


Tue, 02/11/2020 - 06:59


I was just wondering if I don't have a HD Jig, can I add pocket holes on both side of the beam? 

I just have the R3 jig right now. 

Thanks in advance.


Sun, 08/09/2020 - 20:43

I didn’t have a good night for it either. I drilled 5/8s hole through different places and then screwed into the different beams. Then to cover it up I glued a 5/8s dowel in the hole. I did sets of 2 and three. Dowels will be visible though but I like the look a lot.


Fri, 03/06/2020 - 03:26

I love this table! However, my space is smaller. Can someone help me to make it a 6ft table instead of the size it is now? 


Mon, 05/11/2020 - 11:51

Hi i love this table and would like to make mine 10' long by 4' wide. Can anyone help on updating the wood dimensions/cut list or provide me with insight as to how best to do this? Thanks for any help. love this site!

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