Build your own loft bed plans with stairs all from 2x4 and 2x6 lumber! This super sturdy and beautiful design features a platform for easy access, junior height loft bed plans free from Ana-White.com

Preparation
- 15 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 4 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
- 2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
- 2 ½” pocket hole screws
- 4 – 2x4 @ 65 ½” - legs
- 2 – 2x6 @ 37 ½” -bed siderails on ends
- 5 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - guardrails on ends
- 5 – 2x4 @ 75” - guardrails and base support
- 2 – 2x6 @ 75” - bed siderails
- 2 – 2x2 @ 75” - cleats
- 2 – 2x4 @ 30 ½” - platform
- 2 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - platform
- 1 – 2x4 @ 41 ½” - platform
- 2 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - platform
- 12 – 2x4 @ 22” - decking
- 2 – 2x6 @ 43” (both ends cut 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) – to be trimmed down in later steps
- 6 – 1x2 @ 7 ¾” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
- 6 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - stair treads
This bed requires a slat system (1x3s, 1x4s or 2x4s or similar) or a bunkie board mattress to complete
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Step 3
Now here's where we skip the glue. To make this loft bed easy to disassemble, I did not use glue here. The inside width for the mattress area should be 39", insetting the side rails 1 1/4" from outsides. I did this so your PH screws have lots of board to grab into. This bed has NOT been weight tested or guaranteed. If you feel you need extra support - add metal brackets under the 2x6s. An alternative method is to attach metal bed brackets directly to the ends if you have those. Notice the cleat is added in this step to. I used 2 1/2" screws and glue to attach, screws every 6-8" all the way down. This bed is designed to work with a bunkie board, but we just used 2x6s cut to length as the bed slats.
NOT SHOWN: Add the fifth 2x4 @ 75" at the back base of the bed to support the legs at the bottom.
Step 7
Step 8
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Theresa W (not verified)
Wed, 07/25/2012 - 14:08
Decking
How exactly did you attach the decking to the platform? This is my first big wood project and I am not quite seeing how to do that part. While I was cutting and sanding I was assuming that it was just more pocket holes, but in reading the the plans over and over, I don't know how to do that with the platform upright. I'm not very big, but it seems too cozy under there. Thank you! I am getting so excited to put this together.
Rita WIll (not verified)
Wed, 07/25/2012 - 20:32
Hey Anna, Absolutely love
Hey Anna,
Absolutely love this bed. I was just at the IKEA site looking at one similar. I am in awe... something told me to come on over to your site! I have a daughter and a son 14 months apart and although only 2 and 1 this will be perfect for when they are a bit older and sharing a room. I am thinking of throwing a mattress underneath and having one sleep down there.
Great work!
Rayana (not verified)
Sun, 07/29/2012 - 13:12
Just finished mine :)
Just finished building this bed following Ana"s plans!!! Will upload pics soon.
Shari Bruce (not verified)
Mon, 07/30/2012 - 16:51
width?
We just finished this, and went to put the box spring in...it's too wide. The box spring fell right thru. It is an older box spring that we're pairing with a new top mattress. Are the older ones narrower?
JenK12 (not verified)
Wed, 08/01/2012 - 21:37
A box spring should not be
A box spring should not be used on an elevated bed like this. It will raise the mattress up too high, making it unsafe for a child. (The height of the side rails won't be sufficient to keep the child from falling out easily.)
Either use a slat system across the width of the bed or buy a bunky board for beneath the mattress.
ademasters
Tue, 07/31/2012 - 05:52
Yay!
This is EXACTLY what we were looking for, I can't begin to thank you enough!!!! Can't WAIT to get started!
Jay Dee (not verified)
Fri, 08/03/2012 - 11:05
Starting this project today.
Starting this project today. Was a little mislead though, by the cost estimate. Lumber and screws were right at $100. 14 2x4's at $3.97ea is $50 alone!
In reply to Starting this project today. by Jay Dee (not verified)
Ana White
Fri, 08/03/2012 - 11:31
Hi Jay Dee - so sorry to hear
Hi Jay Dee - so sorry to hear the cost ended up being higher for you. We can get 2x4s for $2 each up here in Alaska :( Good luck with building!
Pammylaine
Fri, 08/03/2012 - 13:39
Lumber Cost
I just purchased the wood for this project (increasing the size to a full size mattress) and the lumber cost right at $57.00. BUT, we went to our local lumber yard with the best prices and then took the quote to Lowe's. They matched the price and gave us a 10% extra discount. It cut the price of 2X6's from $4.50 to a bit over $2.55 a piece and 2X4's ended up being $1.88 a piece. If you have the option of different suppliers, call around and find the best price and then take it to some where else...we chose Lowe's because you can pick the wood so you know yet get straight pieces.
Kristinemomof3boys (not verified)
Mon, 11/12/2012 - 16:47
Full size
Please tell me the modifications to make this a full size bed....I am a beginner to say the least and I would love to make this for my son who has a bed on the top of his Christmas list!!