Build your own loft bed plans with stairs all from 2x4 and 2x6 lumber! This super sturdy and beautiful design features a platform for easy access, junior height loft bed plans free from Ana-White.com

Preparation
- 15 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 4 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
- 2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
- 2 ½” pocket hole screws
- 4 – 2x4 @ 65 ½” - legs
- 2 – 2x6 @ 37 ½” -bed siderails on ends
- 5 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - guardrails on ends
- 5 – 2x4 @ 75” - guardrails and base support
- 2 – 2x6 @ 75” - bed siderails
- 2 – 2x2 @ 75” - cleats
- 2 – 2x4 @ 30 ½” - platform
- 2 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - platform
- 1 – 2x4 @ 41 ½” - platform
- 2 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - platform
- 12 – 2x4 @ 22” - decking
- 2 – 2x6 @ 43” (both ends cut 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) – to be trimmed down in later steps
- 6 – 1x2 @ 7 ¾” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
- 6 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - stair treads
This bed requires a slat system (1x3s, 1x4s or 2x4s or similar) or a bunkie board mattress to complete
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Step 3
Now here's where we skip the glue. To make this loft bed easy to disassemble, I did not use glue here. The inside width for the mattress area should be 39", insetting the side rails 1 1/4" from outsides. I did this so your PH screws have lots of board to grab into. This bed has NOT been weight tested or guaranteed. If you feel you need extra support - add metal brackets under the 2x6s. An alternative method is to attach metal bed brackets directly to the ends if you have those. Notice the cleat is added in this step to. I used 2 1/2" screws and glue to attach, screws every 6-8" all the way down. This bed is designed to work with a bunkie board, but we just used 2x6s cut to length as the bed slats.
NOT SHOWN: Add the fifth 2x4 @ 75" at the back base of the bed to support the legs at the bottom.
Step 7
Step 8
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Pammylaine
Fri, 08/17/2012 - 10:43
Super Sturdy
The bed is really sturdy for us...my 4 year old plays pretty hard on it. We used an addition 2X6 to brace the back wall between the legs just to add a little more strength to the frame. And we made sure the side was up against the wall....The side with the stairs. That meant we had to switch them around. However, it gave me a little bit more confidence that he wasn't just going to fall off the stair platform.
Just me (not verified)
Sun, 08/19/2012 - 22:47
I just saw your list for
I just saw your list for making the full size. do you feel you have enough center support under the matress? I am planning on putting a center support, even with the cleats, to support the center more instead of just relying on the slats.
Pammylaine
Mon, 08/20/2012 - 13:54
I honestly think that there
I honestly think that there is plenty of support there. We made sure we secured the cleats VERY good so that they won't come loose. Using the 2X4's to support the weight of the mattress seems really sufficient to me. The bed that we took down and replaced used 1X4's and we never had an issue with it. We cut the 2X4's used to brace the mattress to 56 inches long and it literally goes from one side board to the other so there is no worry about it slipping off if he or anyone else is bouncing around up there.
James (not verified)
Mon, 08/27/2012 - 11:41
4x4s are kinda over kill for
4x4s are kinda over kill for 150lbs of kids, now throw in a large dad and 2x4s look alittle scarry. Build the bed as advertised. If it's wobbly, sister(glue and screw another board to) the legs and bracing. I recomend lots of testing berfore finishing.
Just me (not verified)
Sun, 08/19/2012 - 22:35
be sure to use UNTREATED wood for indoors.
site looks great, I really enjoy all the details on the pictures. THANK YOU!! I was about to start from scratch tomorrow and your design helps me out alot. I still have to do some refiguring with heighth and width (full size).
... One thing maybe I didn't see but the lumber should always be UNTREATED if you are using it in the house. I saw one person mention about the cost of lumber. I hope they didn't buy treated.
***Treated lumber is designed for outdoor use only and can create a serious health hazard in an enclosed environment.***
I am in Texas and price that you gave is about right for me too.
Thanks for sharing.
emmalee (not verified)
Mon, 08/20/2012 - 16:55
type of boards?
What kind of boards did you use to make the bed? Obviously I could go crazy expensive with cherry or walnut but Id like to try to keep it around the $50. This is going to be my first project so I just need clarification on that. Thank you!
Pammylaine
Thu, 08/23/2012 - 13:22
Err.....I believe we used
Err.....I believe we used pine. Make sure you call around for lumber prices...Lowe's and other big stores can be fairly expensive on their lumber. If you have a small lumber yard in your area, go in and get a quote on what you need. If they'll let you pick your own pieces out, get it there. Otherwise, take your quote to Lowe's. The one here matched the price for me and gave me an additional 10% off. That put my lumber at about $57.00. I would have preferred to use the lumber yard in town but, since I wasn't able to pick out the pieces I wasn't for sure going to get straight pieces without lots of knots. At Lowe's I was able to get the pieces I wanted. This was my first build as well :)
Little Frankie (not verified)
Tue, 08/21/2012 - 20:04
Finishing Technique
I'm interested in the finishing technique you used but can't find the post you refer to searching the site. Could you please link it here for me? Thanks in advance!
Robohead
Thu, 08/23/2012 - 15:37
It's listed in the "finishes"
It's listed in the "finishes" section up above. Here's a direct link to it:
http://ana-white.com/2012/07/medium-warm-stain
renaep (not verified)
Wed, 08/22/2012 - 18:59
My own experience
So, I'm in the middle of building this bed, I just need to finish the decking and stairs. First of all, I also invested much more than the $50 or so. Just the cost of lumber was over $100 in NC. 2x4's were almost $4 a piece and 2x6's were over $5! Crazy! However, I also bought a few extra 2x4's and a 1x12. I built a book shelf under the platform and I'm adding a brace down the middle under the mattress because I am using 1 in MDF that I had from another bed and a board across the back side on the bottom. I also added braces to the 2x6's. This bed is bomb proof. I haven't climbed up there yet, but there is no wobble when I shake it or when my daughter is up there, I just want it to last until college lol, so I went to extremes.
Building is a breeze! That part flew by, but oh my, painting it is taking forever! 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint= forever. I will be sure to post to the brag pages when I finish. One word of caution, maybe someone has a solution for this?! Do not strip a screw in a pocket hole! How do you fix that? Fortunately I got it in there all the way, but there's no taking that back out. Overall though, I'm very excited about the end results.