Build your own loft bed plans with stairs all from 2x4 and 2x6 lumber! This super sturdy and beautiful design features a platform for easy access, junior height loft bed plans free from Ana-White.com

Preparation
- 15 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 4 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
- 2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
- 2 ½” pocket hole screws
- 4 – 2x4 @ 65 ½” - legs
- 2 – 2x6 @ 37 ½” -bed siderails on ends
- 5 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - guardrails on ends
- 5 – 2x4 @ 75” - guardrails and base support
- 2 – 2x6 @ 75” - bed siderails
- 2 – 2x2 @ 75” - cleats
- 2 – 2x4 @ 30 ½” - platform
- 2 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - platform
- 1 – 2x4 @ 41 ½” - platform
- 2 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - platform
- 12 – 2x4 @ 22” - decking
- 2 – 2x6 @ 43” (both ends cut 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) – to be trimmed down in later steps
- 6 – 1x2 @ 7 ¾” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
- 6 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - stair treads
This bed requires a slat system (1x3s, 1x4s or 2x4s or similar) or a bunkie board mattress to complete
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Step 3
Now here's where we skip the glue. To make this loft bed easy to disassemble, I did not use glue here. The inside width for the mattress area should be 39", insetting the side rails 1 1/4" from outsides. I did this so your PH screws have lots of board to grab into. This bed has NOT been weight tested or guaranteed. If you feel you need extra support - add metal brackets under the 2x6s. An alternative method is to attach metal bed brackets directly to the ends if you have those. Notice the cleat is added in this step to. I used 2 1/2" screws and glue to attach, screws every 6-8" all the way down. This bed is designed to work with a bunkie board, but we just used 2x6s cut to length as the bed slats.
NOT SHOWN: Add the fifth 2x4 @ 75" at the back base of the bed to support the legs at the bottom.
Step 7
Step 8
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Pammylaine
Mon, 09/17/2012 - 07:15
Sorry about the mattress size
Sorry about the mattress size issue! My measurements were made off of the mattress on his bed....Great fix though and best wishes on the new baby :)
Kluless247 (not verified)
Sun, 09/23/2012 - 10:30
Lumber type
Did u use regular construction lumber or a special type?
melissarobert
Sat, 06/01/2013 - 01:53
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KristiRundle (not verified)
Sun, 09/30/2012 - 20:09
Build it :)
I saw this on pintrest and immediately fell in love! We live in a manufactured home and my 5 year old sons room is a bit small. I showed the plans to my husband and he said lets do this. We went to Home Depot and purchased the wood and screws our total was $48.50 for all the materials. He and I went home and got started it took us about 8 hours to complete it he did all the work and I helped when he needed me. My son loves it we bought fabric and a shower curtain tension rod and I sewed some curtains to add to the bottom so he could have a hideout aim super happy and it was 1/4 of the price of beds we had been looking at for him. The plans were super easy to follow. I am one happy mom!
Heidi @ Mama Nibbles (not verified)
Wed, 10/03/2012 - 23:28
WOW
I am in love! This is precisely what I needed. Thank YOU
Katie B (not verified)
Mon, 10/08/2012 - 11:04
Thank you to all who answered
Thank you to all who answered my question earlier. My husband and I can't quite figure out how exactl ythe floor boards on the deck are attached. Can anyone help us out with that?
Pammylaine
Thu, 10/11/2012 - 12:38
Two 2 1/2 Inch screws on each
Two 2 1/2 Inch screws on each end of each board. It shouldn't be too much of a problem though the ones that are around the legs were a bit of a pain. Lay them out first to make sure you have enough before you start screwing them in. You may have to space them a little. With us making the bed a full instead of a twin we had to use something to space our boards (we used a DVD case) so that it reached from one end to the next without having and odd size boards.
MOPARGOOSE (not verified)
Fri, 10/12/2012 - 11:32
SCREW PLACEMENT
You list countersink drill bit in tools list and pockethole jig, which attachment points are counter and which ones are pockethole. or can you do them all as pockethole??
Cadi Menon (not verified)
Wed, 10/17/2012 - 14:02
With out Krug Jig?
Hi! Wanting to do this project if a full size (thanks Pammy!) but wondered if i could do it using bolts like used in college dorms? I don't mind having the bolt show - wondering if anyone did that? Also - can you put plywood over the slats to hold the mattress? And, boy lots of questions, did anyone have their cut at Home Depot/Lowes... live in Chicago in a condo so don't have too many circular saws.....
Thanks Ana! and everyone else!!!
HWormuth (not verified)
Fri, 10/26/2012 - 13:03
You have on your material
You have on your material list that we only need 2 1/2 PH screws. Would we not need more then 2? We want to use as many screws as we can instead of glue so if we move it will be easier to take apart and put back together.