Build the Fancy X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s and lumber for $65. A reader favorite, this table has been built thousands of times.
We also have plans for a matching bench and lots more farmhouse furniture plans.
Whitney from Shanty2Chic and I teamed up to help you get that designer look without the price tag!
Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.
This is my very favorite build yet! I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight. Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!
Head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!
Thanks Whitney!!!
Preparation
4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long
7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long
3” self tapping wood screws
2 ½” pocket hole screws
2” finish nails
ENDS
- 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
- 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
- 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
- 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
- 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”
MAIN TABLE
2 – 2x4 @ 65”
2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)
4 – 2x10 @ 96”
** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:
4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)
4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws
Step 2
Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side
Step 3
And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.
Step 4
And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8” short point to short point.
Step 5
Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends
Step 6
Followed by the little feet ...
Step 7
I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges
Step 8
The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes. But you will have to fill later with wood filler.
An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.
Step 9
And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.
If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.
Step 10
And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.
Step 11
For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Bobsurber
Fri, 02/19/2016 - 15:08
Longer table?
Do you have plans for this as a 12 foot table or what modifications would be needed to make this a 12 foot outdoor table?
Jtgrins
Mon, 02/22/2016 - 17:19
Need help with step 4
I think I might be reading something wrong, but I can get the angles in step 4 to add up. A 45 degree cut to make the 28 3/8 short to short entirely cuts off the 30 degree cut for the 32 5/8 long to long side.
Can someone please explain how u get 28 3/8 short point to short point without cutting off ur 30 degrees cut and turning it into 45?
jesseroche
Wed, 08/31/2016 - 08:22
Im not sure if this will help
Im not sure if this will help you or if you made the same mistake I did but in case you did, I was cutting the 2x4's with the long side flat. I didn't realize that all my angles and measurments didn't add up until recently. I think you just have to flip it up onto the 1.5" side. I'm not sure on doing the rounded edges though. I'm doing mine straight.
jesseroche
Wed, 08/31/2016 - 08:22
Im not sure if this will help
Im not sure if this will help you or if you made the same mistake I did but in case you did, I was cutting the 2x4's with the long side flat. I didn't realize that all my angles and measurments didn't add up until recently. I think you just have to flip it up onto the 1.5" side. I'm not sure on doing the rounded edges though. I'm doing mine straight.
Pmeverden
Sun, 04/03/2016 - 12:33
What kind of wood to use for outdoor table.
I want to build this table for outdoors. I plan to cover the top to prevent damage but the legs will still get wet. I don't want to use pressure treated wood for many reasons. Can I use use pine from Home Depot and keep it stained and coated with spar? I live in Pennsylvania and. Have heard that Douglas Fir or Cedar would be good. Also I am concerned about the overall weight of the table. Has anyone used 1 x instead of 2x boards for the top.
pixelthecat
Tue, 05/31/2016 - 10:42
Outdoor Wood
Use something relatively weatherproof.
Redwood is a good choice for softwood, but you'll still need to seal it with polyurethane. Pine (including doug fir) will not stand up to water particularly well and your hard work won't last as long.
If price isn't a question, look at Teak, Cedar, or Eucalyptus, which are far more weatherproof than other woods.
BrittLee2307
Wed, 04/06/2016 - 13:45
How would I adjust the top length?
I would like to be able to make the table top longer, in order to be able to use the ends as additional seating. What adjustments would I need to make, in order to ensure its a solid structrue? I plan on making 2 of the fancy X farmhouse benches and using them as seating, but also want to add a chair to either end of the table, so I'm assuming the top would need to be longer?? LOVE this table and the benches!!! LOVE your style and love this site!!!!!
cdd1204
Thu, 04/28/2016 - 15:57
farm table top
Love love this table!! My husband and I built it but there are not instructions for attaching the top. Can you please let us know how you did it? Thank you!
Amber Lea
Sun, 05/08/2016 - 17:18
4x4 vs 2x4
I am still relatively new to work working. I have been slowly collecting tools to make this table. I love the chunky look of the 4x4 vs. the 2x4. I have been working on this for a few weeks and am really struggling. I am still on step 1 and am having trouble joining the 4x4s. Did anyone else have this problem? Is this a problem when using 2x4s? (I'm assuming with 2x4s clamps can be used?) Thank you for your advice!
sjaustin
Mon, 05/09/2016 - 14:10
You could use clamps with the
You could use clamps with the 4x4s, but I'm not sure that I would. I would just lay the pieces down on my work surface, measure, mark, pre-drill, and screw, holding the smaller angled piece in place with my left hand while screwing from the back of the long straight piece with the right. What exactly are you having trouble with? What in particular seems to be going wrong when you try to join the pieces?