Build your own master closet system. This sturdy, freestanding closet can be customized to suit your space and needs. Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com
- 4x8 sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood (1 sheet per tower plus an additional sheet for shelving) OR 3/4" thick melamine or particle board shelving like this (about three 8 foot long shelves per tower)
- IF using the melamine strips, you'll need 1x3s for the top shelf supports, one 1x3 per opening, IF using the plywood sheets, there will be an extra scrap about 2-1/2" wide, you can use this scrap for the supports
- 2 - 2x4s (use 2x6s if your base moulding is over 3-1/2" tall) in the entire length of the closet run (as shown in diagram this is 12' long) PLUS 24" for the ends of the base
- 5 feet of 1x6 or 1x8 boards (width of board determines drawer box depth) PER drawer
- 1 set of 14" euro style drawer slides PER drawer
- Closet rod sockets (one set per each run of closet rod)
- Wood closet rods (max run is about 48" without additional support)
- 1-1/4" Kreg Pocket Hole Screws OR 2" self tapping construction screws (#7 or #8)
- 1-1/4" and 3/4" brad nails (can use screws if you don't have a brad nailer)
- 2-3/4" self tapping wood screws (#8 or #9) - you'll just need 8 for building the base but these are good to keep around for a variety of uses and projects, and can also be used to anchor the closet to the wall
- Wood glue
- 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15" x 81" OR melamine shelf board @ 81" - sides of tower
- 3 - 3/4" plywood @ 15" x 14-1/2" OR melamine shelf board @ 14-1/2" - fixed shelves
- Additional shelves are 3/4" plywood @ 15" x 14-1/2" OR melamine shelf board @ 14-1/2" - additional shelves
Cut list per ONE drawer
- 4 - 1x6 or 1x8 @ 13-1/2"
- 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 13-1/2" x 15"
Cut list for base
- 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 for taller baseboards @ overall length of closet
- 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 for taller baseboards @ 10"
Cuts for Shelves in Between Towers
- 3/4" plywood 15" wide, cut to fit in between the towers on installation
- 1x3 or scrap plywood cut to fit in between the towers on installation
- Rip plywood sheets into three pieces, 8 feet long x 15" wide. If you don't have a table saw or other rip guide, you can have your hardware store do this on their track saw - just make sure the rips are exactly the same. Request to have the saw set and the plywood run through the saw horizontally for consistency.
- Save the remaining scrap piece to use as supports
- Cut the ripped pieces of plywood on a sliding miter saw (may need to flip and cut both sides) or use a circular saw and a square to make square cuts. Sacrificial styrofoam panels under the plywood for support will make cutting much easier.
Add additional shelves as desired. As shown, there is a 12" space between the shelves.
For the drawer boxes, build the box first using the same fastener as you used for building the tower.
Attach bottom 1/4" plywood with 3/4" brad nails and glue.
Install the drawer boxes using the drawer slides.
TIP: You may wish to finish the towers at this point.
Cut two 2x4s to the entire desired length of your closet.
Attach with the 2-3/4" screws to the 10" long 2x4s.
NOTE: I recommend building the base slightly smaller front to back so that the closet can sit above your base moulding. If you have taller base moulding, consider using a 2x6 for the base frame to bring your closet up above the base moulding.
TIP: You may wish to finish the base at this point.
For stained finish: it is recommend to use edge banding on the front of the plywood edges to finish.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.