Community Brag Posts

We built our nesting box from scrap wood we had from an old barn we tore down and other scraps from previous projects. The dimensions were modified based on the width of the wood we had on hand. It's not very pretty, but it was free to make and will be inside a chicken coop. Our chicks are scared of it right now, but they are only 8 weeks old and not laying yet. I'm sure they will like it when they get used to it. 

Love this project!

Rlynhack

Modified the dimensions to make a good sized planter for patio herb garden :)

Finally got a chance to try my hand at whitewashing and I just love the outcome!

We built this bed in the Cabin style, but we wanted to be able to stack it Simple style. It turned out beautifully!!

From the Modern Square Farmhouse table.

My niece's husband is career military and they move a lot. She saw the farmhouse table on Ana's site and asked if I would build her one that could be disassembled for moving and have extensions for large group gatherings. Challenge accepted!

In order to take the table apart, I used 2 - 6 inch long lag screws at the top of each leg that screwed into the 2x4 supports for the table top. Due to the weight of the table, it is advised to turn the table upside-down when removing the screws or assembling the table. Next, I used 3 inch lag screws to secure the beam under the table. Again, the lag screws are easily removed for moving.

For the leaf inserts, I utilized a dowel jig so the leaf extensions could be easily inserted and removed on the sliders that support the breadboard ends. (It is necessary to drill the holes out a little larger that accept the leaf dowels. If this is not done the leafs will fit too tight and it is difficult, if not darn impossible, to remove them.) This was advantageous for two reasons ... (1.) The leafs are easily installed and removed; and (2.) No need for leaf extensions that have their own 2 x 4 sliders. This reduces storage space for the extensions and eliminates the slider insert hole cutouts on each end of the table because the slider is never removed.

The table, when disassembled, is in (8) sections:

(2) table leg sections
(1) table top
(1) Main beam from under the table
(2) Leaf extensions
(2) Breadboard ends attached to 2x4 sliders

My niece is simply thrilled with the table.

I moved into a new house and needed a new chicken coop. I am retired and not a woodworker but these plans were easy to build. Thanks Ana.

I built the table some months ago and my wife loved it so we decided to build a set of benches to go with it. I gotta say though i will never build these suckers again. Man there were so many cuts!!! The stain was steel wool, vinegar and tea bags and i used a rub on polly. The funny thing is I built both of these benches for a total of 30 bucks! I found all the wood laying around. I hope you all enjoy. Sorry about the horrible pictures I guess if I am going to be uploading pictures on here a better camera other than my smartphone is in order.

We modified the Weatherly Sofa plans to fit the 29" cushion covers we found on sale at Pottery Barn, and we filled the cushions with the DIY inserts from Cushion Source. Instead of using 1x2's for the X's, we used 1x3's and my husband spent the better part of an afternoon trying to figure out the angles!

The wood and paint came to about $100, and the cushions were $500 for the inserts and covers (6 cushions and 14 pillows) when all was said and done. A bit expensive, but we love it!

Added kitchen and dining room storage by building bookcases / shelf units to fit under the peninsula breakfast bar overhang. It's the simplest possible "box with a toe-kick", loosely based on Ana's plans for a bookshelf and the closet master system.

Much of the "working time" was stain and finishing time. Actual cutting and assembly time was under 3 hours.

No dimensions: every breakfast bar is different.

1 - The boards were cut to fit under the overhang, with 1/8 or less clearance. Top and bottom of unit is between the upright pieces.

2 - Width of units was also cut to fit. One unit is the width of the lower section of countertop (appx 23 in), the taller section was divided into 2 equal units (appx 21 in)

Shelves were cut about 1/4" narrower than the insiude dimension of the unit, to allow for insertion and the shelf pegs.

3 - Toekick space cut to match the cabinet on the far side of the peninsula. Used a circular saw and then a hand saw to finish the corners.

4 - Drilled pocketholes in the top and bottom boards.

5 - Used Rockler's jig for drilling shelf pin holes in the 6 uprights. Oops! I should have drilled every possible hole. I drilled every other hole and don't have the shelf flexibility I really need.

6 - Stained and topcoated everything, let it dry.

7 - Assembled each shelf unit, using corner clamps and a carpenter's square to make sure it was square. The bottom shelf is screwed at the same level as the toe-kick.

8 - Slid units under the overhang, shimmed them firmly under the countertop.

9 - Added shelf pegs and shelves

DONE!

Doors could be added, using the hinges for inset doors on frameless cabinets.

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NOTES:
The units are backless. I considered nailing a 1/8 hardboard back onto them, but because the finished back of the peninsula is visible behind them, and they are shimmed into place to prevent slouching it was not needed.

Cost is low because we had some 1x12 boards in the attic. Already had the tools and stain from earlier projects. 3 1x12 x 6ft boards were new, the rest were salvage.

* I have tred EVERYTHING to get this picture right side up!!! So sorry it is upside down! This was my first every woodworking project and I am very pleased with the result. I have used it many time since for other projects now too. The plans were easy to follow and although it took me some time it was easy to make. Very sturdy and a great size to work on. I made it out of wood from orange and stained it with weathered oak stain.