Community Brag Posts

wanted a big table for christmas, this is over 8 foot, and we couldn't afford a table like that so having seen the site thought i'd try and build one. thanks for the plans absolutely great
first project, no real woodwork experience but competent diy-er

made mainly out of reclaimed wood, the top and side apron are made of old scaffold boards and the main brace a chunk of wood form my neighbours shed.

i did have to buy some 2x4s for the legs and the cross braces

sides painted and the top waxed, looks a bit patchy in the photos but the finish is good.

all in all cost about £70

The plans for the small and medium picnic table came at a perfect time. Our two granddaughters were growing out of their plastic play table and a big party was on the horizon - a graduation from pre-school.

As it turned out, I had purchased some very nice pine pre-covid and decided to use it for the table. The only change I made to the plan was to use 1" x 6" boards for the top as that was what I had. It gave the table a lighter look. I'm not sure if the boards will cup over time but I'm hoping the 5 coats of Spar Varnish will prevent that from happening.

I was surprised at how easy the plans were to follow and that the level of detail was enough to get it build without questioning "What do I do next?" or "How do I do this?"

I must say that having a miter saw and drill press made the job go faster but I could see that using more basic tools would certainly get the job done. Having the material allowed me to build the table in a single day. The coats of varnish took time to apply and let dry but I believe it will protect the table better than polyurethane.

Octagon picnic table! Built exactly to plan. This challenged my carpentry skills but I managed to pull it off all by myself. Great plans easy to follow and a great design! Would build again!

I made this garden bed in one evening. I love it! I bought 6 6' cedar fence pickets and two cedar 1x2s. I don't have a table saw, and they wouldn't rip a fence picket for me at the store, so I had to buy the cedar 1x2's but the project was still very affordable. I wanted it a little wider than the original plan, so I just cut the 6' pickets in half for the sides.
It is 6' x 3' and I didn't bother to cut the dogears off. You probably wouldn't even be able to tell they are there. I didn't trim the top out because that would add on about $6, and I like it just the way it is.
Now, lets see if I can actually grow some plants in it!!
I'm a beginner, and this project was really easy.

Check out my blog post for more on building this giant, hardworking piece! It took me about 45 hours to build it from start to finish (I work slowly) and cost about $400 in materials.

I saw the plans on Ana White website and and used them to put this together. I changed it slightly to fit my needs. I made this for my in-laws and it was a lot of fun to do. Hardest part was using blue tape on stain and paint.

This was my first project. It took me a weekend to build and prime. Since I chose to use a crackle finish, waiting time between coats extended the total time to one full week. My husband and I were supposed to make this hutch together, but I became obsessed and did most of it alone! I adjusted the size a bit to make it larger, so I could fit big pieces on shelves and in cabinets. Thanks for the plan Ana!!

Since I am in the middle of a divorce, my ex- took my dining room furniture. I decided instead of buying something new, or getting a hand me down, I would build a new table. The wood top was made of 3 wood planks from my sister in laws hardwood flooring leftovers. It was sooo fun to make this. The stain was a mix of Minwax Providence and Ebony 3 to 1 mix appx. I did not add the bottom wood piece, as I did not think it needed it, it is plenty strong without it. I am working on the bench and chairs now. This has been by far my most fulfilling project ever. Enjoy!

This was a great first project.  Thanks for the plans and the inspiration.
I needed to make a hall table so made a narrower version, and had to alter the dimensions to suit the metric system and readily available materials at Bunnings (Australia), and also made the upper and lower sections identical in height.  It ended up about 300mm deep because the shortest drawer runners I could find were 250mm. These are full extension Hafele side rails, opening 100% to make the most of the narrow depth.
The drawer fronts are from a single piece of reclaimed Oregon Pine sourced locally and then stained with various strengths of Victorian Antique Wood Dye from eBay.  The stain is natural/non-chemical and made from walnut husks - just dilute with water to the desired shade and worked well on this timber.
Thanks Ana and thanks Jamison!
 

We used cedar for these nice, little chairs and based the table on the chair model, only 24" tall, rather than the 18" of the chair seats. It took longer to cut than assemble these - total time: @4 hours for all.

Thank you, Ana!

Darin

This was my first building project, made possible by finding this wonderful website. The beds were made from the Classic Bunk Beds plan. Several months later I added a slide made out of melamine board and 2x3s - very sturdy and somewhat overbuilt to compensate for not using any plans for the slide).

I used Minwax polyshades for the finish - my first time finishing wood, and let's just charitably say that I learned a few lessons in doing so.

The steps are a repurposed solid pine Ikea Trofast unit - it worked very well for the kids (4 and 2 when the bed was built). However, it wasn't a great choice for getting my wife and I up to the top bunk - one of the top panels eventually broke... leading to a big bruise for my wife and strict instructions that I quickly build a new, more solid staircase option - to be shown in a future brag post.

All in all, I am very thankful for this website and its plentiful plans - more brag posts to come!

I live in Japan right now and my wife and daughters went to the states to visit family for 3 weeks. I decided to make a few projects. I went to my local home improvement store (HOMES), which is a combo of Lowes, Walmart, a pet store, and a furniture store rolled into one crazy store. I purchased the wood for about 11000 yen, paint for 1080 yen, hinges 800 yen, and door knobs for 2880 yen. Grand total of basically $200. I found that it is not cheap to buy supplies over here. I modified the plan and made 16 "drawers" instead of 20 due to the height of the space where I am putting the table. I used the plan for finishing with the distressed coffee stain. I really like it in our room.

My kids needed a step stool and I had some scrap wood (2x10) left over from a previous project

This was made using Ana's "Garage Shelf" plans. I modified it for a corner spot between two exiting cabinets, so it took a bit of thought, but the Ana's technique for the build made it so easy.
AND I used up scrap wood that I'd been hording in the garage for the build.
Thank you Ana!

This was a project undertaken to facilitate my current pursuit of learning how to cook, but I think it will serve me well as I study, too, holding my textbooks up. It also let me experiment a little with staining and with using milk paint (which has NO VOCs but is kinda weird to work with). And it let me put to use some scrap wood that I think I was unconsciously saving for something special.

Because I had a scrap pile, screws, a few hinges, and the finishing products, this project was Almost free...I had to buy a narrow hinge ($1.50? I think?), and I chose to buy some pretty page weights ($3 including both pendants and the chain). So...not too bad, right? For a solid book stand that has meaningful beauty to me?

Ok, so this is all scrap wood. The stained pieces are maple leftovers from my cabinet project, and the rest is a mix of pine and poplar. See the dimensions in the last photo. The paint is Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint in Lucketts Green, and the stain is Red Chestnut oil-based stain by Minwax. I finished the whole thing with one coat of wax buffed to a soft sheen (my new favorite finish).

I used a miter saw for my cuts and a router for the kickstand grooves, but really a regular circular saw would've worked just as well (or better, for the grooves). It took me several days to finish this project, but there's no reason it should take (someone other than me) more than an afternoon.