Camp Loft Bed with Stair, Junior Height

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 07/16/2019 - 17:45
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Build your own loft bed plans with stairs all from 2x4 and 2x6 lumber!  This super sturdy and beautiful design features a platform for easy access, junior height loft bed plans free from

wood loft bed with stairs

This loft bed has been built and cherished the world over for almost a decade.  Here's why-

  • It's inexpensive to make - about $50-$100 in materials
  • It's super sturdy and strong because of the 2x4 and 2x6 materials - the same materials we build houses out of
  • It's an easy to build design that is fairly quick to tackle
  • The platform with stairs make it very easy to access the loft.  The lower platform is at about the same height as a floor to mattress, so it's a very natural and easy process to go from the bed to the platform
  • This loft bed is a very beautiful piece that can go with just about any decor

I built this loft bed for my then four year old daughter.  At four years old, a loft bed seemed like a bad idea.  But with the stairs, it's really not that different than a regular bed - just the access is at the bottom.

The stairs are so much easier to use than a ladder.  And the platform is just right.  Instead of having to crawl down a ladder, you simply swing your legs off the bed (just like a normal bed) and they rest on the platfrom.  Then you stand up (with good headroom) and walk down the stairs.

The goal was to create a loft bed that mom and dad could easily crawl into and snuggle and read bedtime stories - and easily sneak out when the child drifted off to sleep.

We designed this bed to fit inside a room just bigger than 8x8.  Yes, 8x8.  It gave the room so much more useable space!

The window was previously the obstacle in the way of building stairs.  But with the lower platform, we were able to not cover the window. Now it's entertainment for the kids as they use it as a stage, and look out the window from it.

Under the loft bed stair platform, no storage is lost.  It's a great spot for a toybox or bin.

The best part about this bed is how easy and inexpensive it is to make.  That's all 2x4s and 2x6s (I'll share my finishing technique with you later this week) bringing the total cost of lumber up to about $50!!!  

Convert to Bunk Bed with Stairs Option

We also love this bed with a second bed under it to create a bunk system.  We have plans for a matching twin bed frame here.

NOTE: You may wish to increase the leg length by about 6" to give more headroom to the lower bunk - depending on how tall you make your lower bed height.

bunk bed with stairs


Loft Bed with Stairs Plans

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Camp Loft Bed

loft bed with stairs dimensions
Dimensions shown above. Fits twin.


Shopping List
  • 15 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 ½” pocket hole screws
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 65 ½” - legs
  • 2 – 2x6 @ 37 ½” -bed siderails on ends
  • 5 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - guardrails on ends
  • 5 – 2x4 @ 75” - guardrails and base support
  • 2 – 2x6 @ 75” - bed siderails
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 75” - cleats
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 30 ½” - platform
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - platform
  • 1 – 2x4 @ 41 ½” - platform
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - platform
  • 12 – 2x4 @ 22” - decking
  • 2 – 2x6 @ 43” (both ends cut 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) – to be trimmed down in later steps
  • 6 – 1x2 @ 7 ¾” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
  • 6 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - stair treads

This bed requires a slat system (1x3s, 1x4s or 2x4s or similar) or a bunkie board mattress to complete

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Build the ladder end as shown in diagram with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. Use glue to fasten - these joints are permanent. If you are building this loft bed without the stair platform, add 2x4s all the way down to make a "ladder" for the kids to climb up.

Step 2

Build front end of loft bed same as ladder end.

Step 3

Now here's where we skip the glue. To make this loft bed easy to disassemble, I did not use glue here. The inside width for the mattress area should be 39", insetting the side rails 1 1/4" from outsides. I did this so your PH screws have lots of board to grab into. This bed has NOT been weight tested or guaranteed. If you feel you need extra support - add metal brackets under the 2x6s. An alternative method is to attach metal bed brackets directly to the ends if you have those. Notice the cleat is added in this step to. I used 2 1/2" screws and glue to attach, screws every 6-8" all the way down. This bed is designed to work with a bunkie board, but we just used 2x6s cut to length as the bed slats.

NOT SHOWN: Add the fifth 2x4 @ 75" at the back base of the bed to support the legs at the bottom.

Step 4

Now we'll start building the stair platform for the loft bed with stairs.

Step 5

Attach stair framing to the loft bed legs.

Step 6

And then the decking is placed on top of the stair platform.

Step 7

The stairs are easy to build - just 45 degree angles! We went ahead and drilled 1 1/2" PHs along top edge of the stairs to connect the stairs to the bed later on.

Step 8

Then we added the stair treads. We also drilled 1 1/2" PHs along ends of the stair treads and attached with 2 1/2" PH screws just for extra strength. Everything gets glued.

Step 9

The bed was finished outside and then assembled in the room. TIP: We haven't found our bed needs it, but for extra support, you could add another 2x4 @ 75" (at $2 a 2x4, cheap insurance) to the base of the bed to further support the bottoms.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Wed, 06/15/2016 - 10:25

Hello all. I am curious if the plans could be adjusted to make this work for a toddler bed matress size? My 7 yr loves her twin size and my 3 yr old wants her toddler bed like big sister. The husband and I aren't ready to buy another twin bed lol. If anyone could help with adjusting the measurements we would be grateful. 


Sat, 07/09/2016 - 10:51

Is it possible to build this without a Kreg Jig? I really don't want to have to purchase one.  Could you just use regular wood screws? Would they have to be longer than the length given in the plans? Has anyone done this without a Kreg Jig?


Mon, 08/08/2016 - 14:29

Yes, you could, but it wouldn't be as attractive (in my opinion). I did this project yesterday, and at the beginning of the day, I wondered the same thing. Since it is all right angles, you could build this without the Kreg Jig. You could just drive long screws in from the opposite sides.


I strongly suggest buying the Kreg Jig. I got mine for $40 at Lowe's yesterday (it's the R3 version), and I'm really glad to have it. It works really well and makes the joints look so much more professional. No exposed screws!


Thu, 08/11/2016 - 17:30

Where are finishing screws used in the plans?  And I am not understanding where the pocket holes screws go in the top of the steps? And the 12 boards for the plat form are those pocket hole screwed in as well? And the section that you don't glue to be able to disassemble, do you just leave the pocket hole screws open then?

I apologize for all the questions but this is the biggest project I will be doing so far and want to make sure I do it correctly so my child doesn't get hurt


Tue, 10/04/2016 - 14:52

We started this project and already in step 1 notice that the instruction photo includes 2 2x4s but the actual product only has one. Is this what you meant with the update for better safety? Also the materials list only says 2.5 inch pocket hole screws but then the instructions say "1.5 inch and 2.5 inch" but doesn't say which ones go where... Our 2.5 inch came out the other side, so we are going with 1.5 inch and can't find anywhere where it would be useful to use the 2.5 inch. That makes me nervous since an extra inch of screw legth could mean a bed falling apart!!!! HELP!


Tue, 10/04/2016 - 19:02

Just curious, for the legs, do they need bracing at the bottom? Will it wobble? Thanks!


Sun, 10/16/2016 - 04:48

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Fri, 12/30/2016 - 15:37

Is the height of this bed okay for a 4 year old?  Some other junior bunks seem so low and I don't want to need a new bed again in a couple of years because he won't be able to fit under it comfortably to play.  Thanks!


Thu, 01/05/2017 - 15:58

Camp Loft Bed with Modifications


Thanks for this plan.  I built this for my 5-year old who is getting a 3 1/2-month old roommate!  He loves it, as do the other two kids (11 and 9).  I modified the plan to add 10" at the head for some storage shelves with an AC/USB outlet integrated for light, clock, and device charging.  I also added 17" at the foot for shelving to hold books, legos, etc.).  The bedroom had 127" of wall space, so I chose to integrate other pieces to fill the wall.  Thanks for the plan!



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