Community Brag Posts

Modern Dorm Mini Refrigerator Microwave Cabinet

Submitted by rachelcb on Sat, 07/31/2021 - 12:35

I changed plan to make deeper. I also modified the bottom trim and top. I put a ball bearing soft door drawer guide on modern door so it can slide back and forth. I feel we need more modern plans on here but with a bit of creativity and using plans you can make anything. I have never built anything before. I love General Finishes Milk Paint in Snow White and I brushed rolled it on (sanded between 3 coats). It’s basically self leveling and leaves a nice matte finish. Used door glide in picture bought from homedepot in the 24 inch and that’s how wide door was and it was 36” tall. Door glide I only used one on top of the door not on bottom as well. Door piece of fiberboard with just strips glued on and quarters spacing them correct.

Estimated Cost
$200
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Dorm mini refrigerator microwave cabinet
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Storage Captains Bed

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 09/16/2022 - 05:03

So this was a really fun project from start to finish, I wanted a storage bed with a place for my son to showcase his Super Hero collection!

Estimated Cost
300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Outhouse with Skylight

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 08/04/2023 - 11:03

Our favorite throne in town.

My daughter and I built the outhouse in the snow a few years ago. Once the TwoGa was named after the Stuga, the outhouse quickly became “The PooGa” (aka “The Ash-Hole “🤣). We use ash in the winter and sawdust in the summer, to keep away the stink, which works like a charm.

This is an adaptation to an Ana White outhouse design.

 

Pin For Later!

Outhouse with Skylight

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Dog Bunk Bed

We’ve been looking around for some plans for a doggy bunk bed for a while now, but couldn’t find anything that we liked so I decided to build it from scratch. This is a huge bunk bed that was built based on the size of our larger dog’s bed which is 44 x 35. This was pretty simple to build although the stairs we’re quite challenging as I have never done them before so if I can make it, anybody can.

I must stress that before I found Ana’s website about 6 months ago I could barely cut a piece of wood straight. Over this time I have made several things based on the easy to follow plans on this website which ultimately gave me the confidence to go it alone and build this bunk bed. Friends and family are shocked at some of the furniture I’ve made and some don’t even believe I made them and think I’ve bought them from IKEA. My wife has got a list of furniture she wants to make now including a TV console, an armoire and a twin bed for one our daughters. Every spare second I have now is spent is making furniture and I LOVE it.

For anybody who has never built anything and is apprehensive to do so I would just say, do it. Grab what you need and dive right in. You may get frustrated and scream a bit at first, but the reward at the end is well worth it and each project you do will get easier and easier. Be warned though. The better you get, the more people will pester you to make things for them.

Thank you, Ana.

This was made using cheap 1 x 3 and 1 x 4 furring strips for the railings and bed slats, 2 x 4s for the posts and 1 x 10 board for the stairs.

Estimated Cost
$75 - $100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
I haven't sanded or finished this yet as we are still deciding on what to do with it.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Rustic Queen Sized Wall Bed

Submitted by ldo2626 on Wed, 06/25/2014 - 09:09

Expecting our second child, my wife and I decided to do away with our guest bedroom and combine it with our office. The only problem was our queen bed took up way too much space and it didn't get enough use to justify the sacrifice. We looked at the wall bed options available for purchase and decided they were way too blah and very expensive. I then found the "A MURPHY BED YOU CAN BUILD, AND AFFORD TO BUILD" post on Ana's website (thanks for the inspiration)! 

 Using cheap pine boards, plywood, door hinges, vinyl upholstery and stain I constructed the wall bed you see here. It really wasn't that difficult but facing it took the most time. To give the boards a more rustic look I used a utility knife to shave off the edges/corners and stained them with the Minwax American Walnut water based stain and the Minwax White Wash Pickling. When this started we thought we were going to have to settle for something unattractive and less than desirable. Seeing it in our office now, we love our new bed and actually think it makes the room look much better!  I didn't keep track of costs, but it couldn't have been more than $150.

 

Estimated Cost
I didn't keep track of costs, but it couldn't have been more than $150.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax American Walnut water based stain and Minwax White Wash Pickling
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

jwm816

Tue, 07/08/2014 - 08:08

Looks great! May I ask what the final outside dimensions were? Curious to see if this would work for me.

Thanks!

ldo2626

Wed, 08/06/2014 - 09:23

I would have to measure it when I get home... at work currently. Looking back, I think the best approach is to take the measurements from the plan, find the difference between standard mattress and queen mattress dimensions (check wikipedia for standard sizes), then add that difference back to the plan. I cut it real close on mine and could use a little more space. It would be nice to make it a bit deeper and with some head room to store comforters and pillows.

lopixy

Sun, 11/30/2014 - 18:10

I love this!  Could you give more details about how you did the facing?  Are the pine boards just nailed onto the plywood? 

chefrgk

Sun, 12/28/2014 - 12:59

I am dying to get started on this wall bed project. I keep getting this message when trying to open the Plans.

The page you are looking for is temporarily unavailable.
Please try again later.
can someone help me find them.

chefrgk

Sun, 12/28/2014 - 12:59

I am dying to get started on this wall bed project. I keep getting this message when trying to open the Plans.

The page you are looking for is temporarily unavailable.
Please try again later.
can someone help me find them.

nicolanala

Tue, 08/09/2016 - 15:24

Hi. I would love to try this. Looking to build in the next month before parents in law come over. Is there any working links to the plans??

josheli

Thu, 01/25/2018 - 13:06

click on the bed picture above and it will take you to the plans

 

Julie's benchmark media console

Submitted by Timjuliek on Sun, 03/19/2017 - 16:42

My wife used the benchmark media console plans with her own idea for the doors

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Sherman Williams pro classic
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

2x4 DIY Pantry

Submitted by Michael K on Thu, 08/15/2019 - 11:50

Anything is possible when you put your mind to it. This is my 4th DIY furniture project. First time working on cabinet/doors. Installing them straight was the biggest challenge. The side of the pantry is actually four 2x4's. I measured the frame so tightly that I had to use a hammer to bang in the fourth 2x4 on each wall, also adding a distressed look in the process. The pantry is very large, 48in wide and about 17 inches deep. Our kitchen lacks storage space and we could use a little more space for food and also pots, pans etc. The staircase to our basement is off our kitchen, so I placed the pantry right at the bottom of the staircase for easy access. I am thrilled with how this came out considering the time and effort it took. Very gratifying. Build on!

diy pantry made from 2x4s

Estimated Cost
$180-$200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Miniwax English Chestnut
Miniwax Semi Gloss Poly
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Michael K

Thu, 03/05/2015 - 07:51

Thanks, to the both of you! Possibly the most fun part of this project was buying a Ryobi Airstrike Brad Nailer. That thing is fun to use! Used it for the back of the doors, back of the pantry and also for the door stops.

denverdave66

Sat, 07/23/2016 - 18:21

I am thinking about building one but I am not sure if my skill level is up to this yet. I am going to attempt to build the Kentwood Bookshelf and see how that goes. I am remodeling my office and want real wood shelves instead of that pressed wood junk. Great job on your build.  I love this website!

langgin26

Sat, 01/13/2018 - 18:09

Hey Michael I really love the pantry and would love to make this exact one but there is not enough info on the sizes and what all you used for all the wood. If you have  time I would greatly appreciate it if you could give us some more info thank you 

Steve Phil

Fri, 12/25/2020 - 10:42

Haha. Nice. But ya did not pound it in ... You persuaded it in as old timber framers would say using an old mallet called a Commander. 😉

Garage shelves with doors

Submitted by CarolinaL on Thu, 01/11/2018 - 03:59

I have been wanting garage cabinets for a long time but couldn't afford them. When I saw these shelves I knew it would be easy to add side panels and create doors for the sections. The size is 8'x8' with the 4'x3' under the ceiling rack. I put a 2"x4" in the middle to divide each section, measured and cut doors from 5mm lauran plywood. I also cut the stiles and rails from the same material to give it interest but mainly to make it thicker to avoid warping as much as possible. I added 2"x4" to create a facing for the doors to rest on. Also used overlay hinges to simplify the hanging as much as possible. I was able to follow the design plan and the only thing I did was add a shelf at the bottom. The cleats were definitely not necessary, it's very sturdy. 

Making the doors

The first thing is to learn how to measure for cabinet doors. There are plenty of sites and YouTube videos showing how to correctly measure. If you are doing the same type of doors like I have, with no middle divider, then be sure to pay attention how to correctly measure for those instead of a single door.

The easiest way to make the doors will be getting 1/2 in sanded plywood and use a table saw to cut each door to size. Skip the shaker style trim and put the hardware on and be done. Make sure the hinges will be able to hold the weight of the door.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a table saw but I did have a router and a jig saw, and found a great video on YouTube on how to use a router to cut straight edges without a table saw. I measured out one door and used that outline to cut two identical doors. It turned out that each section was slightly a different width so I had to do two at a time. However, if you have a circular saw you can rig it to make a table saw and make a guide to rip the doors. It all depends on what tools you have available to you.  

I have a compact plunge saw and was able to cut the 3 inch strips for the shaker style with it. Honestly, that was the most tedious part and most time consuming by far. That also had to do with the fact that because the plywood is only 5mm thick I cut strips for both the front and the back to make it over 1/2 inch thick to help minimize warping and give the hinges something to grab.  

I used the miter saw to cut the stiles and rails to size and a 23 gauge nailer with 1/2 nails and glue to get them on the door. I glued and nailed the front and the back of each side at the same time because the nails are a bit longer than two pieces of plywood. I then turned it over and nailed the other side. The great thing about using a 23 gauge is that I didn't have to fill any holes because they are so small you can hardly see them at all. 

The last thing is to use your sander to ensure all of the pieces are even. I used a 60 grit and then followed it with a 220 where needed. 

If you want to avoid cutting the strips but still want to have the shaker style, Home Depot sells 1/4 thick Polystyrene flat moulding that will add vertially no weight to the door but the cost can easily add up if you have a lot of doors.

Lastly, if you are wondering why I got such thin plywood that ended up creating more work. The reason is because I wanted to save money on hardware and I didn't trust the inexpensive hinges I got off eBay would hold a heavy door for many years.

 

Estimated Cost
About $300 not including some tools I needed to buy anyway.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Interior satin
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Trash / Recycling Cabinet

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 07/27/2021 - 11:21

This was a build I was able to check off my Honey-do List. We use it as a Trash / Recycling Cabinet. Basic cabinet build with tray drawers for the trash cans.

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

DIY Breakfast Nook with Storage

Submitted by jfelker on Wed, 10/23/2013 - 08:54

DIY Breakfast Nook

I completed this project in a weekend, over 2 days. The space was an empty void in the corner of our kitchen, so I decided to fill with a functional seating and eating space.

I first removed the trim from the wall, so I could reuse it on the front of the box later, to make the bench match the rest of the kitchen. One challenge I came across was rerouting the a/c vent through the front of the box so we didn't lose that circulation.

My sister-in-law chipped in to make the cushions and pillows to soften it up. I added the DIY table, and further defined the space with wainscoting and trim.

Estimated Cost
$500
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Semi-gloss trim paint was use, to have the ability to clean later after meals, etc.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

homeideas5099

Wed, 10/23/2013 - 10:10

Looks fantastic. Love how you reused the trim to have the whole unit blend in with the rest of the kitchen. Well done.

PDubs74

Sun, 01/09/2022 - 16:45

Hey there,
Absolutely love your DIY breakfast nook. Unfortunately the additional blog/info link is no longer working as I'm trying to gather more information. Would anyone be able to send the instructions and/or new link?
Thank you

Storage Daybed with Trundle Drawers + Storage Headboard and Hutch

I combined Ana's plans for Daybed with Storage Trundle Drawers and a Storage Headboard with a Small Hutch.

This is my 3rd daybed with storage drawers. It's such an easy build and gives so much extra space. The entire project took about 40 hours. I used Minwax stain in Classic Grey and three coats of polyurethane. For the drawers, I used 1.5" casters. I drilled a hole through the back of the headboard to feed cords through. Then I put the whole thing in the back of my truck and drove 500 miles for the final assembly. :)  In the provided photos, some of the pieces are flush because I hadn't permanently attached them. 

Estimated Cost
$450
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Classic Grey
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Four station desk (PB inspired)

Submitted by monty742 on Sun, 03/15/2015 - 08:58

I really liked the PB mega desk, but I didn't want to spend $1600 on it.  After seeing someone's post here (a couple years ago...) asking for plans on that desk, I decided to do it myself.  I took these two plans and made 4 base units.  They are 18" square at the top and 34" tall.  I used 2 IKEA table tops connected underneath for the top, to make a total height of 36" - counter stool height.  I constructed them a little differently than the plans, but no matter how you make them, the idea is the same.  The plan is to take them apart and make 2 desks once everyone is too old and cool to do homework/artwork together.

Estimated Cost
$500
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Kitchen and Bath finish paint (2 coats) - it's a little shinier than eggshell (I only used it because I had 2 or 3 gallons extra at home :) then 2 coats acrylic top coat matte finish.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

monty742

Sat, 08/15/2015 - 04:33

Just seeing your comment...sorry for the delay!  I got the stools and the light fixture at a Ballard Backroom (outlet) store near me.  3 of the stools ended up being about $40 each with the sale they had at the time, and the 4th was $60? - bought at a later time than the first 3.

AlisaH

Wed, 11/04/2015 - 07:40

How did you connect the table tops from the bottom so that the tables were secure together? I'm curious what's the best way to do this. Since two of the four seats will be where the seam is, I want to make sure I secure it properly so it's not wobbly. Thanks so much.

 

monty742

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 05:06

I'm just seeing these latest comments for the first time, so you may have long finished this project already!  The tops were surprisingly sturdy but I did reinforce them.  I placed the tops on the floor upside down and screwed some metal brackets (about 12" long each) across the joint in four places.  I just screwed them in through holes already in the brackets.  This wasn't the most stable because those tops are particle board and don't hold screws very well...  But since it was already pretty sturdy, I figured it would do.  It has been fine, even with standing on the top (kids who get up there and me hanging the light fixture above).

Once the tops were joined, I placed the bases so there was about a 1" overhang on the top.  To hold the top in place, I used small pieces of wood screwed to the underside of the top at the inside corner to act as a placement stop.  The top is pretty big and heavy even though they are IKEA tops, so they don't have a tendency to move or slide at all anyway.  I'm going to try to figure out how to post another picture of the braces and corner stops...we'll see if I can do it!  Let me know if you have any more questions...again, sorry I didn't see this in a more timely manner!

Pmprdwife

Sat, 01/02/2016 - 05:55

Is the photo above the Pottery Barn version or your product result?  I'm trying to figure out the dimensions for the drawer and shelf configurations.  Thanks!  BTW, I'm totally addicted to your style and personality...my husband loves the productivity inspiration I've received. :-)

 

monty742

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 10:17

Hi!

I'm glad you like the desk!  The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one!  My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height.  So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!  

So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".

 

Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom.  All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits).  It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead.  I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.  

I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined.  Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that!  I really need to learn to use SketchUp.  Let me know if you have any questions!  

Monty742

monty742

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 07:57

Hi!

I'm glad you like the desk!  The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one!  My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height.  So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!  

So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".

 

Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom.  All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits).  It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead.  I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.  

I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined.  Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that!  I really need to learn to use SketchUp.  Let me know if you have any questions!  

monty742

Thu, 07/28/2016 - 14:13

No you can't buy them from Ikea.  I bought the table tops from Ikea, but I built the bases.  The dimensions for the bases are in one of the additional pictures with the post if you want to see them!

treverandamber

Mon, 10/10/2016 - 07:41

What are the total dimensions of the table top? Thinking of building something like this, but want to make sure it will fit in my space.

Simgre81

Thu, 12/28/2017 - 07:00

Are these just slide in drawers, or did you use some sort of hardware to have them slide in and out?

Outdoor Adirondack Chairs and Modern Side Tables

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 07/07/2023 - 11:37

I love the Adirondack chairs and they were so easy to make. Your directions were perfect. I added an inexpensive cushion from Walmart although I think technically Adirondack chairs don’t have cushions. But they do help make them more comfortable. I also added some tin work design because we live in the south west.

James

Seasonal And Holiday

My Simple Outdoor Lounge Chair with 2x4 modification

I modified this chair with 2x4's as the base and 2x2 for decoration on arms, this is prior to sanding and finishing

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$15-$20 dollars, depending on local lumber prices and finishing options.
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
Unfinished
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

RandyW

Sat, 06/13/2020 - 16:33

I always take my sander to the sharp edges and round them off

Bookshelf Caddy

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 07/01/2024 - 13:28

Perfect size for my granddaughter. She loves it. Project turned out great. Thanks for the plans Ana! 

Trevor

 

Built from Plan(s)

Farmhouse Table 1

Used the plans here to make the table. Modified the dimensions slightly to fit my space by re-drawing the plans in AutoCAD 3D. Added stainless steel adjustable feet to the legs for leveling. Wanted to keep the wood up off the ground since this table sits on my back patio. Amazon link for feet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VRPCDNL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title…

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$220.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Espresso Stain on top
Minwax Satin Polyurethane on top
Sherwin Williams Exterior Latex Paint - White on base
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Modern Adirondack Chair

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 08/13/2022 - 20:12

I made this with 1x6 since Home Depot didn’t have any 1x10 treated wood. All the wood I used is treated. I also used the exterior screws and put on a gray poly mixed stain for a little extra protection. I of course messed up the angles twice on the feet, but they just look like I gave them extra decoration now lol. Everybody loves this chair!

Comments

Pergola Swing

Submitted by grarob1956 on Thu, 04/23/2020 - 17:59

I saw this project on YouTube under Arbor Pergola Swing. It did not mention any specific detailed plans or cut list but it was enough to get me started. I began with (2) 10' 6" x 6" post. buried each 24" and cemented. I cut the post tops at 83" from ground line. The rafter consist of (2) 10' 2"x 6". I used the leftovers of the 6" x 6" post tops in the middle of my rafters to hang the swing from with 1/2 " eye bolt. Then I used (9) 2" x 2 " x 8' and cut each at 36" to finish off the top and (2) 2x6x8 for the 4 rafter supports. I drew out the designs of the rafters and top ends free hand and at made a template for the cuts with s jigsaw.

The entire cost including hardware minus the swing was $170. My wife had purchased the swing last Fall at a clearance for $40 brand new.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$170.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Valspar Duramax Special Walnut
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Fire Pit Swings

My wife saw something like this on Pinterest and desperately wanted one. The one she saw was hexagonal in shape. We didn't need as many swings so we went with just a plain square shape. We used 6x6s for the legs and posts across the top and used 4x4s for the angled support pieces. We built the swings using the plan from this website. All the materials can be picked up at the blue and orange stores. However when it came to the springs for the swings, the blue store was 1/3 of the price of HD. The legs are 12' long and buried 4' under the ground and cemented in for strength. Luckily I am retired military and was able to rent an auger for 1/2 the price of HD or the blue store. You could do it by hand but it saved us hours and lots of back pain. We found our dimensions for the size we wanted and spray painted dots on the ground where the posts were going to go. We dug the holes and stuffed the 6x6s in them. Using a post level we made sure they were plum. We braced them and added the quickrete and left them to setup over night. The next day we had to make sure all the tops were level with each other. This is where having some knowledge of physics paid off. I took clear tubing and screwed it above the height that I wanted on one post and then screwed the other end to another post. Fill it with water until the water level on the first post is where I wanted it (8 feet high) and it will automatically fill it level on the other end. There is a picture of this above. Water will always level itself out. I had to do this because my yard is at a slight down hill grade. We marked it and cut the tops off to make it level. After attaching the 6x6s on the top with 8" lag bolts it was time to paint. After painting was done we built 3 swings from Ana's plans. We shortened them by 6" to give room to walk between the legs and the swings. All in all it was a great project that only took two dedicated weekends. My wife still has to paint the swings though.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$600ish
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
We used an oil base Black Barn Paint from the blue store.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

jkread

Wed, 05/27/2015 - 22:38

It sounds and looks like the top 6x6s are mitered and sit on top of the end of the vertical posts. I'd say at least one lag bolt each way to hold the mitered corner together and then at least one in each piece down into the vertical to hold it in place.

carewarner

Mon, 04/27/2020 - 10:24

WOW, LOVE!!! This is simply gorgeous! What a warm and welcoming addition to your yard. And thanks for sharing your method of finding level for your posts on your sloped yard. I absolutely love it!

Seasonal And Holiday

How to Build a DIY Mobile Triangle-Shaped Chicken Coop

Submitted by thediyplan on Thu, 06/10/2021 - 10:41

Every so often, we purchase several baby chicks. Our kids really enjoy watching them grow and develop throughout their growth phases. When the chicks were old enough to spend the night outside, I’ve built them a Mobile Triangle-Shaped Chicken Coop to live in. Once they are full-grown, they will be moved to a larger coop. I wanted to have a mobile chicken coop so that I could easily move it around the backyard.

There are so many different chicken coops out there. They come in various shapes and sizes. Most of them are built to be stationed in one place, but I wanted to try a mobile coop.

see my website for additional pictures and how I've built it, href="https://thediyplan.com/mobile-chicken-coop"

Estimated Cost
$ 200
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

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