Community Brag Posts

12×16 picture frame with glass and beadboard

Submitted by mamma_joy on Fri, 03/11/2011 - 16:19

I decided to make a frame for a Christmas present for Grandma (my Mom). I wanted a different size than the plan listed so I did some modifying and thought posting the measurements would save someone else time in figuring it out. I wanted to cut down three 5×7 photos to square-ish shapes so decided on buying glass of 12″x16″ ($3.52 @ blue). The overall frame is a few inches bigger than that but I didn’t measure the exact size. I didn’t know what to do for the matting so decided to use some extra beadboard scraps that I had on hand. I had to get creative for holding the glass and beadboard in the frame (I’m sure there was something at Blue that was really for this, but the guy I talked to was no help!) so I nailed four buttons on the back. They can twist to allow the backing to come out to change the pictures.

Here is my cut list:
12×16 glass
12×16 beadboard
1×2 cut into:
(2) 12 1/4″, (2) 16 1/4″ (mitered at 45 degree angle on each end with the board laying TALL)
(2) 13 3/4″, and (2) 17 3/4″ (mitered at 45 degree angle on each end with the board laying FLAT).

Follow the plan being careful to miter the ends correctly (so you don’t have to cut new boards when you thought you were done cutting). The glass and beadboard fit well with a 1/4″ space as the plans suggest. I also found it helpful to mark the 1/4″ on the outside of the frame when putting in nails…b/c I didn’t and ended up with a little extra ‘character’ poking through than I was planning. :)

Estimated Cost
$7 ($3.52 for the glass pre-cut at Blue
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
Two coats of almost black no VOC paint, roughed up on the edges after it dried
A little bit of wood filler in the mitered corners, sanded the edges and places with wood filler, two coats of black paint, sanded the edges. I signed the back of the frame “My first frame. Full of love and imperfections!”
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Rustic X Console

Submitted by Hoscotx on Mon, 05/27/2013 - 21:32

Built of Douglas fir with Minwax Ebony stain (and satin polyurethane) and storage boxes from Ikea. Also added a black plywood backer with cord holes. Planning on building the matching coffee and end tables.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$120 with finish and baskets.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Ebony stain with satin polyurethane (2 coats)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Tilt Trash Can

Submitted by mandamo488 on Thu, 04/23/2015 - 14:53

I needed a trash can that did not have a basic lid on it because my nosey dog, no matter how hard I tried to teach him, would continue to knock the lid off the trash can we had. Not only was it to keep the dog from sniffing around the garbage it also made my trash can look alot cuter! 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$50 or less
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Rustoleum Dark Walnut
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Glow in the dark Cedar Chest

Submitted by mahouna on Sat, 09/02/2017 - 18:15

I had this  idea, cut  approv 150 plus slivers of 4 x 4 and glued and nailed them on. Always wanted to try 

the glow in the dark powder, yes it works!!

Estimated Cost
not much, already had chest and old timbers.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
sealed with Rustoleum Matte Sealer
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Wooden Washing Machine

This was A LOT of fun to build, and even MORE FUN to play with!! The hardest part was cutting out the round door and then getting it sanded smooth. My daughter actually calls this her "dryer", and tends to stuff all of her aprons, mitts, tablecloths, and towels from her play kitchen into the "dryer".

Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Silver Spray Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Crafting/Office Desk

Submitted by KRhoads on Wed, 05/29/2013 - 19:39

I've been on the quest to find a desk that can serve as a multipurpose table. I wanted a slide out to store my laptop so the desk can be cleared off for my sewing projects. I finally stumbled across the two filing cabinets at a flea market ($35 each) much cheaper than I could find at any store ($100+ each). They were a little beat up but still functional. Nothing a new coat of paint couldn't fix.I really like the Farmhouse Table but already have a beautiful wood dining table, however I figured I could take some inspiration from the design for my desk. I used 5 1x6x6 boards for the desk top and some 2x4s and 1x3s for the supports.

Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Cabot Brown Mahogany Stain 2 coats, Poly 3 coats, Valspar Tropical Oasis Paint and Primer Spray Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Drink Station - Variation on Laundry Basket Dresser

We are slowly remodeling our kitchen bit-by-bit. Our house is less than 1000 sq. ft. so storage space is at a premium. We keep five gallons of emergency drinking water (for when the power goes out during tornadoes or ice storms) in an Igloo cooler that sits in our kitchen at all times. I wanted an attractive stand to put the cooler on and thought a smaller version of the Laundry Basket Dresser would work well with the plastic tubs I use to store juice pouches and bottles of gatorade that I buy in bulk. (Please ignore my yucky floor in the pictures. We won't be replacing the 23 year old vinyl flooring until the rest of the remodeling is done.)
I built this stand using scraps of OSB from building goat houses for our goat herd so the wood was basically free. I wouldn't use 1/2" OSB again, though, because it split so easily even though I drilled pilot holes for all my screws. I also wasn't real thrilled that there is no way to sand it smooth. I did the best I could and hoped the primer would smooth it out some more. It didn't, but my husband says he really likes the texture of the hammered metal paint on the shelves and top mixed with the texture of the OSB because it looks really distressed.
I plan to buy some wheels to put on it so it will eventually be countertop height and I want to be able to move it around if needed. I also will be sewing a cover for the cooler so it matches my kitchen decor and looks a little spiffier than the dinged-up former soccer team beverage carrier that it has been in the past.
The biggest challenge of this project was keeping everything square while screwing the pieces together. I kept a framing square with me throughout the entire assembly.
My next project is going to be building a hutch using a variation on the plans for Grace's Bookcases.
(Updated pictures to show the cover I sewed for the water cooler and the added wheels.)

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
less than $10 because I used scraps of leftover wood and paint from other projects
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
2 coats BINZ Primer - 2 coats Silver Hammered Rustoleum Spray Paint - 2 coats Black semi-gloss Rustoleum Brush-on Paint
I primed and painted all the pieces before assembling them to make it easier. The parts that were going on the inside got 2 coats of paint over the two coats of primer before assembly. The parts that were going to be on the outside only got one coat of paint over the 2 coats of primer before assembly. Then after I screwed it all together the sides where the screws went into got the final coat of paint to cover the screws, too.
I didn't paint over the screws on the top because they sort of match the hammered metal finish and I didn't want to have to spray paint just the top while trying to not get silver paint on the black sides.

Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Farmhouse table modified

Submitted by Podgirl on Thu, 05/30/2013 - 21:11

I used the basic plan by Ana, but modified it for the size I needed. Its 2x12 pine with english chestnut stain and tung oil (formby's) finish. I did use 4x4 posts for the legs instead of 2- 2x4's. notching out was the most difficult part. (Should have watched the video by Ana 1st. Lol). I did want some over hang so I cut the leg notches 1/4 shallow so there would be detail. I regret not using the kreg jig on the top, as I have much bigger gaps than I like! But I started buying better tools during this build when I realized mine were not getting the job done. And it definitely makes a huge difference!!! I still have to finish the benches. Just trying to find the time. I can't wait to start the next project!

Estimated Cost
$200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
English Chestnut with some walnut added. 10 coats of formby's tung oil first in high then low gloss.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Adorable Outdoor Chair

This was such a fun and easy project using 1x3s and 1x4s, (scraps on hand) along with pickets that were less than $2 each, my Mom loves it, a gift for her birthday!

 

 

 

Estimated Cost
$20
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
White outdoor enamel with poly finish just to be sure it's weather resistant
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Modern Coffee Table

Submitted by Malka on Wed, 09/13/2017 - 00:52

Really liked the design of this, but I just prefer the look of wood over concrete. Used 2x6 rather than 2x4 for the base, as it gives it a more sturdy, modern look. Used 2x10 and 2x6 for the tabletop, which was biscuit joined and then given artificial seams with a router. Stained in Jacobean, and given a gloss poly finish.

Estimated Cost
$60
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Jacobean stain and Minwax Fastdry Poly
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Doll X picnic table and bench

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 10/07/2021 - 12:53

Using the plan,I used (3)1x3’s for the top and (3) 1x2’s for the top so would have a similar look. I also opted for Select pine boards. This table I left plain. I have also made them and painted them. Love the plan. I typically glue and use a Brad nailer to finish.

Platform bed for my toddler

Submitted by Livvyhill on Mon, 06/03/2013 - 05:10

This is the first thing I've ever built!! My 2.5 year old son was ready to move out of his crib, so I wanted to build him a bed low to the ground. He loves it!! I'm very proud of myself for being able to do this:) Perfect plans!!! If i can do this, anyone can:)

PS I made the headboard from plywood and screwed planks in, stained them with the same stain (used vinyl letters for a stencil when staining) and attached to bed-- really easy.

Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Dark Walnut Rustoleum
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Upholstered Stool

Submitted by Anners on Wed, 09/13/2017 - 18:30

I followed the plans with 3 modifications.

Modification #1: To add more structural support, I used 6 more 2x2s. 3 of them went directly under the 1x3s that made up the seat. 3 of them went at the bottom, flush with the lower 1x3s at the base, right by the legs. I did not pre-cut these! I measured the lengths and did the cuts as I needed them because they needed to be a snug fit-had to use the hammer to lightly tap them into place before securing with 2 in nails. For the middle 2x2s, I tonailed in a couple of 1 1/2 nails to keep the 2x2 from twisting/spinning (because I didn't use 2 nails to attach it the first time!) See the pictures for closeups. 

Modification #2: I stained and polyurethaned the legs.  Stain color is MInwax Jacobean (The other stained parts of the stool don't need staining, but mine are because I used scrap wood for this build and they were already stained.)

Modification #3: Padding and wrapping and slipcover - I purchased a 15x17x2 inch foam pad for the top of the stool. I had some 1/4 batting in my craft room. I used an upholstery stapler ($10 at Hobby Lobby + an extra box of staples) to attach the batting. I wrapped it around the sides and top, securing it along the sides of the cube with the stapler. I used a spray adhesive to glue down the foam pad. Then, I wrapped 1 more layer of the batting over the top of the foam pad, securing along the cube edges. I flipped the whole stool over, trimmed the batting edges, leaving enough to fold over and staple onto the base frame. I made the slipcover as instructed in the link provided in the plans, but I had to take the measurements from my stool NOT their measurements, due to the extra bulk created by the batting and foam pad.  I used 1/2 in seam allowances on all seams, leaving 2 extra inches at the bottom. After making the cover and fitting it, I turned the stool upside down and stapled the cover to the frame, making sure that it all looked neat and secure. Tip: Some of the staples didn't fully sink into the wood so I had to use a hammer and a nail set to get them really secure.  I added a felt slider to each leg.

Finished dimenstions are 19 in high, 18 in (long sides), 16 in (short sides).

Enjoy your build and hope it turns out great!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Mountain Bar

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 10/09/2021 - 02:10

My covid time build . I piece quilt so the mountain seemed natural. The top is a 2’ thick pine with a resin coat. I didn’t have a pattern

Farmhouse Vanity - pretty easy

This was a pretty easy project! It took my husband about 2 hours to cut and assemble and really required very little wood and materials. The long part was sanding, staining, and sealing it as we wanted to make sure it can withstand being in use in the bathroom. Looks great and we're really happy with how it turned out! We'll probably add the slats on the bottom sometime later.

Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Red Mahogany
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Fancy Arch and Storage Bed

My little girl needed an upgrade from her toddler bed.  I've made a few benches and factory coffee table (all from this site and yet to be photographed), but I needed to step out of the comfort zone and handle a "big" project. 

I made a few modifications with the headboard:  I lined all the pieces of wood vertically and connected them using three horizontal boards.  After nailing the bottom and middle boards, I then cut the shape of my headboard and then attached the final board on top.  I also decided to round the edges of the front boards.  I wanted the stain to "pop" on each edge.  I attached the headboard with bolts, washers, and wing nuts.

Things learned from this project:
1.  A little glue goes a long way.  You really don't need too much.
2.  Nail guns are the BOMB!
3.  Don't chinz out on sanding.  We all have parts of a project that we just don't like doing.  Sanding the inside of cabinets is mine.  But if you don't, the stain will make all the scratches your wood received at the warehouse make themselves known.
4.  Stain (or paint) at least 4" in from the top of the cabinets.  The storage part of the bed is made to be a little bigger than the mattress so your little one has someplace to step to get into bed.  You don't want the raw wood to show.
5.  Make sure to "dry run" your boxes. You want the side boxes to line up with the bottom box.  You want the horizontal measurement to be the same all the way down.  Once it measures the same, THEN screw in the slats.
6.  Enjoy making your furniture.  If you're having a rough time, walk away and come back another day.  Sometimes seeing the project with fresh eyes is all you need.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Walnut gel stain.

Gel stain is AWESOME. I only needed one coat.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner