Community Brag Posts

My wife wanted a portable farmhouse style rustic dining table that she could take to photoshoots and other events. I started with a top made with 2x6s and make the legs with 4x4s and the rest with 2x4s. Stain is dark walnut with a clear coat on top.

The legs are attached with door hinges and can fold into the top for more portable use. There is also a board that can be inserted in the bottom slots so that when in use the legs can not fold in.

So far the rustic dining table is working out great, although this table is VERY HEAVY and needs 2-3 strong people to carry it around. I have also made a lighter version using 1x6 tops and all 2x4 frame and legs.

Photos courtesy of Jennifer Blair Photography Designed by Amber Veatch Designs

I followed the plans pretty closely. I added dividers to make 3 drawer units but I didn't find it necessary to have the top shelf go all the way to the back since it would never function as a shelf. I used scrap pieces for that and they weren't big enough to be full shelves.

I used 1/2" MDF for the bottom, sides, and backs of the drawers to cut down on weight, cost, and general bulkiness. I used this free app called Cut List to figure out the easiest way to have the guys at Home Depot cut all the drawer panels after I learned I'm not that good with a circular saw. I used a hack saw to cut aluminum bars for hanging files and used scrap wood to make the little brackets to hold the bars upright in the drawer. The full extension drawer slides are functionally and asthetically better but it would have been so much easier to put in basic bottom mount slides. 

I wanted a wood grain top and ended up with common pine boards over more expensive poplar or oak and I would use pine again without hesitation. I used Google SketchUp to figure out the widths of boards I needed to make the top with minimal cuts. Then joined them with glue and mending plates and sanded the hell out of them. I altered the dimensions slightly to make it the same size desktop as the Bedford desk. My two wing sections are 23" x 23" but I should have made them 23" deep by more like 24" or 25" long. I had to hack the bottom bracing to make a spot for the drawer units to slide into. If you alter the dimensions make sure you can secure a brace between the main body and the wing of the desktop and still have room for the brace at the edge of the wing. 

My cost includes things like a Kreg jig, saw blade, clamps, paint brushes etc. so you may be able to do this for less. I could have gone with a middle of the line paint I think. This project was a beast for me because a) I'm not a furniture maker b) I don't own a table saw which would have been amazing c) I picked the hardest way to make the desktop and d) I modified some of the dimensions from the basic plans. I worked on this thing for weeks (granted sometimes I didn't touch it for several days or a week). But it was a fun and rewarding project. 

This was my first big build and I love how it came out!  Thank you Ana White for amazing and straightforward plans to follow for both the farmhouse table and benches.  

I recently moved to Boulder, CO and finally have a garage where I can actually work on projects. Since I moved here with practivally nothing, I decided I should build my own bed. This is probably one of the most ambitious wood working projects I've attempted. I also tend to be slightly anal, so I've probably spent way more time on this project than most people have or will.

After reading the plans and other Brag Posts, I felt I was ready to start. I ordered the Kreg Screws, and a few other supplies I would need for the Project on Amazon and was off to the races. Several trips to Home depot to get various pieces of wood, (since I wasn't going to fit it all in my Subaru in one go), I finally had most of the lumber for the bed frame. Let me tell you, it's not easy getting straight pieces of lumber (as mentioned before, I'm a little anal). I decided to go with oversized lumber, since I would have more usable leftover pieces for other projects.

I spent several hours after work during the week, and several more on the weekend, sanding down all the lumber with 60 Grit, then applied the first coat of Stain, to raise the grain. I was out of town for the weekend, and let the stained wood sit in my garage while gone. When I got back, I noticed a lot of marks which I didn't notice before staining. Some of these were from the belt sander I used to knock down really rough parts of some of the lumber. But most of the marks were because I put too much pressure on my random orbital sander.

Lesson learnt: Sanding takes time, and patience! DO NOT press down hard on the sander, if you don't want marks on your wood. These marks will be significantly more prominant after staining.

I decided to sand everything again, 60 grit, then 100, then 150. I gotta say, the wood feels so much nicer to touch and I'm glad I decided to re-sand. I spent a few hours after work to get most of the head board pieces done, but noticed that the 2x4 had warped beyond repair... I'm going to get the upper and lower 2x6 pieces ready to assemble with my kreg jig this weekend, and then decide if I want to add a 2x4 in the middle like the plans call for.

I decided to go with just 2x6s for the headboard, I used the Kreg Jig to put it all together, I also attached 4 supports made of some scrap Plywood I got from my neighbor for the headboard.

I stained it all with a Staining pad twice, then applied 3 coats of Poly with a brush. I didn't sand between coats since I was applying very thing coats and I had already sanded everything down with 150 grit.