Community Brag Posts

I'm happy to share with everyone my IKEA hack 6" tray cabinet.

I found a 24" cabinet box in IKEA's As-Is section and took it home for half price ($23)!  I would have preferred plywood, but my table saw is a little small and cutting large sheets of plywood is a little scary.  When I deconstructed the cabinet, it sustained some damage (as its particleboard), so if you try this at home, be careful!  I ended up changing the depth to 22" in order to cut off the damaged piece, but that shouldnt be noticeable with average trays and cutting boards.  

I used Ana's 6" tray cabinet plan and modified the dimensions a little for my planned space.  It still needs the back, face frame and door (which will be a replacement drawer front from the cabinet manufacturer).  I plan on building the face frame at the time the cabinets are installed, since this will go in between the 36" corner easy-reach and the 36" sink base.  Once its done, I'll post updated pics!

These are made from the 4x4 posts, 2x4 rails, and slats from an old wooden fence that weren't good enough to re-use when we repaired the fence.

It's close to the Simple outdoor bench, but I simplified the plan even more to take advantage of the pile of free lumber. Or maybe it's the Simple Outdoor Dining Table ... but a lot shorter.

CAUTION: Be careful to remove ALL nails, screws and bolts from the lumber you are reusing. If you can't get the metal out, mark that area and figure out a cut that won't hit it.

TIPS FOR RECLAIMED LUMBER:
* Trim the ends of the lumber square before you measure.
* Don't try to salvage split or rotted wood. Trim it off and see what you can do with the good bits.
* Plan your cuts so you have the least waste.

TOOLS:
10" Miter saw
Wood glue
Nail gun, with 2 1/2 and 1 1/4 inch 16gauge nails for gun (You could use deck screws if you have them)
Surform Pocket plane (wood rasp from Stanley tools)

CUT LIST:
For one bench, 21x36

NOTE: To cut a 4x4 cleanly with the 10" miter saw, put a thin shim behind each side of the 4x4

4 4x4 post scraps, 18 inches long (legs)
2 2x4 18 inches long (sides)
2 2x4 36 inches long (front and back rail)
10 fence slat pieces, 21 inches long (cut to fit the top after it is assembled)

ASSEMBLY:
See the picture of the underside of the bench:
1 - Square up the legs with the end pieces, glue and nail.
2 - Square the sides with the legs, so the legs are inside the 2x4 apron, glue and nail.
3 - Align the 2 end slats with the edges of the bench and nail through them into the 2x4 apron
4 - Space the rest of the slats on the top, leaving 1/8 inch or so etween the boards for drainage. Nail them to the 2x4 apron.

FINISH: Use the wood rasp to round the cut ends of the slats and 2x4s. Rasp with the grain to avoid raising splinters. Lightly rasp the tops of the slats to smooth any really rough spots.

A table or maybe a buffet is planned, with the same construction method, but a bit taller. Tables are 26-29 inches, most buffets are 36". It depends on what will make best use of the remaining bits.

This was my first project ever. I had a lot of fun and it didn't quite turn out right but next time it will be perfect.

A friend asked me to make a headboard for him as he couldn't find anything online or in store that he really liked. 

I was up for the challenge and always love working with wood to make new and exciting things so, challenge accepted. 

This was my first attempt at a headboard and I think it turned out pretty nice. 

Knotty pine face with a cedar frame. 

Looking forward to my next project! 

They were simple to make and the plan was easy to follow. The only modification I made was adding the 1x3 topper in place of the longer legs sticking out of the top.

My kids needed a step stool and I had some scrap wood (2x10) left over from a previous project

We used carraige bolts to make the legs removable. Very happy with the results!

I made this chair from plans in Ana's book. Obviousy I modified the back to make the skull.

Super easy to make. I used all pallet wood for this project so the only cost was the screws.

My second building project... this one took quite a while, building in the evenings after the kids went to bed.

The playhouse is based off of Ana's Playhouse Building series, with some modifications to fit the space in my backyard and accommodate climbing wall, monkey bars, and slide.

To put the main deck structure into the ground for sturdiness while protecting from moisture, I dug out 5 holes to fit single hole cinder blocks (4 corners plus an extra 4x4 for the monkey bars; you can see an leftover block on the ground in one of the pictures). I placed some brick in the holes, then the cinder blocks on top. I then partially filled the cinder blocks with sand, put the pre-built deck in the cinder block holes (with help - it's heavy!), and then filled the rest of the cinder block holes with sand. It's worked remarkably well - the deck has been up for about a year now. I also sprayed some clear waterproof sealant on the bottom part of each beam near the ground for extra protection (deck, monkey bars, climbing walls, and swingset A-frame). This has allowed me to still run sprinklers near/around the playset and even grow grass underneath the swings!

Materials used:
* Playhouse: pine, plywood, Suntuf solar grey polycarbonate corrugated roofing panels (I live in Arizona, so little rain to worry about but lots of heat - the sheeting lets light in but blocks most of the UV rays, corrugated shape also provides venting at top when placed sideways)

* Deck/Swingset/Monkey bars: treated lumber, composite decking, pine for railings, monkey bars purchased from Amazon

* Climbing wall: pine, treated lumber, handholds/railing bought off ebay/Amazon

* Swings/slide/bongos/wheel, telescope: purchased from Amazon

Modifications:
* Turned playhouse 90 degrees to be in back of the deck, with swingset coming off the side. This meant the support beam for the swingset had to pass through the playhouse - modified the frame for that wall slightly and created a notch for the beam to pass through.

* Slide comes out one end of playhouse - made the "window" on that end larger than the plans called for in order to give room for the slide.

* Monkey bars come off one side of the deck - used extra 4x4 here to create support for the bars, and used extra bars to make a ladder on this side

* Climbing wall instead of ladder for main entrance

* Put large window in back wall of the playhouse

* Added cross bracing to side of decking on swingset end to make it more solid/cut down on sway when swinging

Update 8/2017: This project started with the Storage daybed, which I built in 2014. My daughter is a book lover and I wanted to provide her with more space for her books. I recently added the following plans to the Daybed with Storage Trundle Drawers:

- Twin Storage Headboard Base

- Small Hutch for Storage Headboard

- Cubby Hutch Plans for the Storage Headboard

I also made one extra storage headboard base and added more shelves along the long side of the bed so she could be surrounded by books. There are two additional supports under long bookshelf and I placed them roughly behind each of the trundle drawers.

For the bed (I built two), I opted to use the alternate slat system. I also used 2" caster wheels and added dividers to the drawers--one drawer has three compartments, and the other two drawers were divided in half.

Note: In my main brag photo it looks like the drawers don't close flush... I didn't notice when I took the photo because I was focused on the new shelves. But they do close and line up perfectly!