Community Brag Posts

The wife has a hard time bending down so she wanted pedestals for the washer and dryer.  The metal ones with a drawer were too tall.  I showed her Sausha's and she really loved that design.  I basically used the same construction plans idea from Sausha's project and some tips from Ryan's brag post.  But, I wanted to beef it up some.  I didn't like the L-bracket to attach the top and 4X4 legs.  It didn't seem sturdy enough for me.  I used my table saw to square the edges on the 4X4 posts and the 2X6 rails.  Then I used my Kreg jig and glued and screwed everything together.  I liked Ryan's trim ideas, so I used baseboard trim for the bottom and flipped it for the top trim.  I made a 1/2" lip so if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer would not fall.  I put the trim on the bottom of the legs and was considering putting on the top but I put some different trim all the way around the bottom of the 2X6 rails.  The wife liked that.  I also added some carpet on the top to cut down on vibration and to help keep the units in place. I also put some 4X4 pieces of carpet on the bottom to keep the noise down and to help in moving it. I primed and used an gravity sprayer to paint it.  Then I put 3 coats of polyacrylic to help in cleaning and to cut down on scratches from the laundry baskets. 

This was our second project (though I'm proud to say that I was able to put the bulk of it together all by myself...and that's because of the miracle of the Kreg Jig pocket hole kit!)

First I had to modify the plans so that the sideboard wasn't as deep (about 16" deep...so just a couple/few inches off the original plans). Then we bought the wood. My husband helped me cut most of the pieces, and then I started drilling pocket holes. It felt like it took forever! But once that was done, I was able to put it together so quick...like an IKEA furniture! BUT! I really should have checked for SQUARE better than I did, b/c once it REALLY started coming together, things were a little off kilter... Thank goodness my husband had the patience to SAND THE HECK out of the bottom of the poor thing to level it back out. :P

The door fronts took forever...and the drawers took a while to fit in correctly (all of which my hubs did). We had left our lumber on the patio, and the second day it got rained on. It might have helped if our lumber didn't get wet (to help keep things straight and square).

The things that took the longest: squaring, leveling, doors and drawers, and the base molding (I ended up using a 2x4 and 1x2 to build my own base along the bottom...we wanted to stain the wood instead of paint it, and didn't want to pay the $$$ for paintable molding).

I used the same Rustoleum Dark Walnut stain that I had used on our Farmhouse Table...but I didn't shake it enough before using it, then left it on longer than I should have, so it is much darker than our table. Eventually may want to paint over it since it was so hard to get stain in all the nooks and crannies.

I didn't think to stain the inside of the doors. I will have to go back and paint it someday. We used particle board for the bottom and inside shelf (much cheaper than plywood). I tried staining the bottom piece, but it just soaked in the stain. So I used some dark brown spray paint instead. Worked like a charm. Planning on painting/covering the shelves one day, too.

OH! AND, I couldn't find the wider "bead board" (or whatever it is that everyone else used on their sideboards), so we used plywood as a backing, then attached some thin Poplar boards on the front for the appearance of planked boards. VERY painstaking. Would recommend a different method for that part.

(Timing: We started building this around the beginning of November, brought it in and used it before it was finished...then finished it a couple days before Christmas. Just the other day I added some drawer liners).

Needed a shed to store bikes and mowers, etc, so I'd have more room in the woodshop : )  I made a lot of modifications to the plan to fit my space and make it much larger.  The completed size is 7 foot tall at the peak, 6 feet deep and 5.5 feet wide.  I made it as a 3 sided shed, using the wall as the 4th to save on cost, increase air flow, and make the exterior house wall accessible.  I also made an egress in the back of the shed in order to get behind the shed if needed. 

Instead of roofing shingles, I opted for ribbed metal sheets and one clear sheet in the middle to make a skylight, so there would be light in the shed.  This is my favorite part of the project.  It was a huge pain to attach the roofing from a ladder with very limited access, but it looks great and I love the light coming in.  We have very little rain in CA, so I'll have to wait until winter/rainy season in order to test out its waterproofing. 

Since the shed sits between the house and the neighbors block wall fence, and I wanted to use as much of the space as I could, I decided to design the shed to have the side wall against the house rather than the back wall, as shown in the plan.  This took a large amount of modifications, but with careful planning and measuring, it can be done.  This also meant blocking off access to behind the shed, so I cut an egress in the back wall and added hinges so you can lift the back cut out panel, and rest it on a stop block attached to the fence behind it in order to have access.  That's what woodworking is about- problem solving.  Love it. 

As you can see by the full shed picture, it fits a large amount of stuff- 2 adult bikes, mower, edger, trimmer, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, garden tools, shovels, etc, with plenty of room for more.  I now have a free corner in my garage that I've already filled with a DIY rolling workbench and more pegboard space for tool hanging.  Woodshop increased space= happy Brittany. 

I should also mention that building the frame and adding the pickets was quite a quick and easy job.  The hardest and most time consuming part was the roof (I didn't have metal cutting tools), rolling each very heavy wall to the site (I was alone) and the previous 2 weeks in which I built the paver patio the shed sits on.  Hard work, but worth it.  I love it!

This is the perfect workbench for my needs.

I upgraded the casters to bigger ones as my shop's floor is in rough shape.

I also added storage under the two work surface next to the miter saw. This was just a matter of closing under the 2X4 frame and making the two sections on casters a little shorter. The only downside for that mod is that the plywood can bend a bit since it is not screwed to the frame. I don't mind since it falls flat as soon as there is weight on it. Also, this mod makes it hard to include fence system (it would need to be removable, like fixed with dowels only, no glue) and almost impossible to include a precise fence system since it would need to be removable. In my case, I do rough, non-repetitive cuts, so there is no need. 

TIP : Pay a little extra for smooth plywood. I lost a lot of time sanding mine :(

My home office remodel was inspired by a post from Ana White a few years ago. For this project I ended up using IKEA bookshelves and cutting the tops off and flipping them upside down. I used some crown mounding to cover the base of the cabinets on the tops. The desk top bases are file cabinets I found at the office supply store and the desk tops are edge glue pine. Overall I think I only had to make 8 cuts for the entire project. Saving me a ton of time and money. Thank you Ana for all of the wonderful post!

Mark Danreiter on Facebook

I built a big kids see saw using 2x6's all around with a 2x8 seat. The center post is 30"h.

I used the farmhouse table plans, with a few modifications. I made two benches to go along with it. This was my first big wood project and I'm pretty proud of it. My daughter bought her first home and needed a table custom sized to her space so this was perfect. I love all of Ana's plans, so easy to follow.

I had been wanting to build something to hide the litterbox for a long time. When I saw the Printer's Console plan, I knew this was the perfect plan for a cat litter box furniture. I loved that Jen Woodhouse's version was completely modified to her bar plan, so I thought I could modify for my litterbox idea. I modified the plans on size, as I was trying to use a bunch of mis-matched plywood. I also modified it to include a cat door, a cat passageway on interior panel, a vent on the back behind one of the drawers, and the stone top. I built a frame on the back to house the backing as an inset piece, as I didn't want it to be seen at all. I learned a very important lesson during this build. Not all 1x3s are created equal. Once I got my doors assembled, they were too big for the opening. I couldn't shave off the tiny amount needed, and couldn't make anything work short of starting over with 1x4s, sawing off a small amount, and cutting down the # of "drawers" (and handles). I wanted the inside to be fully finished (because cat pee on raw wood would not be good!). I had to finish certain "planes" prior to putting the thing together. I used kitchen and bath paint on the inside floor and sides for easy cleanup. The stone was carryover from construction on our house 12 years ago. The handles were an amazing deal @ $1.81/each .