DIY Big Green Egg Grill Table with Concrete Top
This grill table took a weekend to build. The base is made of cedar and top is concrete. More information on how to build this table is available on my blog.
This grill table took a weekend to build. The base is made of cedar and top is concrete. More information on how to build this table is available on my blog.
Super easy and fun project! We altered the original plans to build a loveseat and had zero issues. We did add some extra support below.
I did not find 25”x25” cushions within our price range so I settled for 25”x22.5” and they work but ultimately 25x25 works best.
I made this play kitchen as a Christmas present for my kids, and it’s been a big hit! It’s built mostly from leftover hardwood plywood, and a couple of 1x12 pine boards. The oven knobs and faucet were cut from redwood scraps and attached with 1/2” dowels to freely rotate. The vertical surfaces were painted with leftover house paint and sealed with water-based polycrylic. It was a fun build, and I learned some new skills (like installing hinges)! Thanks for the plans!
Mon, 06/05/2023 - 07:50
WOW, this is just too cute, can I get one in my size please! Thank you so much for sharing, love your finish choices.
The wife has a hard time bending down so she wanted pedestals for the washer and dryer. The metal ones with a drawer were too tall. I showed her Sausha's and she really loved that design. I basically used the same construction plans idea from Sausha's project and some tips from Ryan's brag post. But, I wanted to beef it up some. I didn't like the L-bracket to attach the top and 4X4 legs. It didn't seem sturdy enough for me. I used my table saw to square the edges on the 4X4 posts and the 2X6 rails. Then I used my Kreg jig and glued and screwed everything together. I liked Ryan's trim ideas, so I used baseboard trim for the bottom and flipped it for the top trim. I made a 1/2" lip so if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer would not fall. I put the trim on the bottom of the legs and was considering putting on the top but I put some different trim all the way around the bottom of the 2X6 rails. The wife liked that. I also added some carpet on the top to cut down on vibration and to help keep the units in place. I also put some 4X4 pieces of carpet on the bottom to keep the noise down and to help in moving it. I primed and used an gravity sprayer to paint it. Then I put 3 coats of polyacrylic to help in cleaning and to cut down on scratches from the laundry baskets.
Wed, 06/29/2016 - 14:31
I think you could probably drive a truck on top of yours. :) I was a bit concerned about the strength of the construction when I first decided to build it, but I decided that since it would be stationary once I have it in place and the only force would be straight down, it would be fine. Once I got it put together, it was actually sturdier than I thought it was going to be...from a horizontal force perspective. Virtically, that thing could hold 100 washer/dryer pairs...the plywould would give out before the 2x4s and 4x4s would even budge.
Anyway, nice work! I love the Kreg Jig...I need one of those.
Sun, 01/29/2017 - 16:23
Great looking build, thanks for the detailed photos!
Ana White inspired chaise lounge......
I used cedar and added the extra boards so the cushions would stay put. We also made the arms 2x6 boards so we wouldn’t need end tables for the couch. The plans were super easy to follow. I mostly used pocket holes so the screws wouldn’t be visible. Love how it came out! Thank you for the plans, Ana!!
You can see the final project here: http://crabandfish.blogspot.com/2012/10/lil-archers-bed-its-done-its-do…
It was time for our son to move to a big-boy bed! We looked at tons of plans, but none were quite what I wanted. In the end, fish modified plans for Ana White's Camp Loft Bed with Stair. We wanted to make it a bit shorter because we only have 8' ceilings and there is a ceiling fan in the room. We spent about $80 for the lumber and invested in a kreg jig as well. The bed is stained with Minwax Golden Oak. We bought a 10" deep twin-sized foam mattress for the bed - if you are adding a coil mattress and boxspring, the bedside rails would definitely need to be higher.
Our son LOVES it! He is almost three and is easily able to navigate the stairs, which I don't believe will become too "baby-ish" as he grows older. If they do, the steps can easily be removed from the frame without losing structural integrity.
The underbed area has a great "cool" factor - we hang blankets to create forts, and it has become a place our son gravitates to for reading, playing, anything!
Sat, 01/03/2015 - 11:41
This was our second project (though I'm proud to say that I was able to put the bulk of it together all by myself...and that's because of the miracle of the Kreg Jig pocket hole kit!)
First I had to modify the plans so that the sideboard wasn't as deep (about 16" deep...so just a couple/few inches off the original plans). Then we bought the wood. My husband helped me cut most of the pieces, and then I started drilling pocket holes. It felt like it took forever! But once that was done, I was able to put it together so quick...like an IKEA furniture! BUT! I really should have checked for SQUARE better than I did, b/c once it REALLY started coming together, things were a little off kilter... Thank goodness my husband had the patience to SAND THE HECK out of the bottom of the poor thing to level it back out. :P
The door fronts took forever...and the drawers took a while to fit in correctly (all of which my hubs did). We had left our lumber on the patio, and the second day it got rained on. It might have helped if our lumber didn't get wet (to help keep things straight and square).
The things that took the longest: squaring, leveling, doors and drawers, and the base molding (I ended up using a 2x4 and 1x2 to build my own base along the bottom...we wanted to stain the wood instead of paint it, and didn't want to pay the $$$ for paintable molding).
I used the same Rustoleum Dark Walnut stain that I had used on our Farmhouse Table...but I didn't shake it enough before using it, then left it on longer than I should have, so it is much darker than our table. Eventually may want to paint over it since it was so hard to get stain in all the nooks and crannies.
I didn't think to stain the inside of the doors. I will have to go back and paint it someday. We used particle board for the bottom and inside shelf (much cheaper than plywood). I tried staining the bottom piece, but it just soaked in the stain. So I used some dark brown spray paint instead. Worked like a charm. Planning on painting/covering the shelves one day, too.
OH! AND, I couldn't find the wider "bead board" (or whatever it is that everyone else used on their sideboards), so we used plywood as a backing, then attached some thin Poplar boards on the front for the appearance of planked boards. VERY painstaking. Would recommend a different method for that part.
(Timing: We started building this around the beginning of November, brought it in and used it before it was finished...then finished it a couple days before Christmas. Just the other day I added some drawer liners).
Wed, 02/06/2013 - 15:20
I saw your comment on my blog and had to come take a peek! It sounds like it was a challenging project, but you did a fantastic job. Beautiful!
Thu, 09/26/2013 - 10:15
I love the dark stain on this piece! It looks beautiful! Congrats on a job well done!
One day project with hubby! Wanted a wood set, but couldn’t find a reasonable price. Bought tools, wood, supplies, and cushions for under the cost of one online!
Modified the double lounger plans into 2 single loungers. I liked the idea of the boards running the long way rather than from side to side like the single lounger plan. These were pretty easy to build. All assembled with a Kreg for hidden screws. Made with Sanded and super polyurethaned cedar (3 or 4 coats). turned out beautiful with the matching boards running from head to toe!
Needed a shed to store bikes and mowers, etc, so I'd have more room in the woodshop : ) I made a lot of modifications to the plan to fit my space and make it much larger. The completed size is 7 foot tall at the peak, 6 feet deep and 5.5 feet wide. I made it as a 3 sided shed, using the wall as the 4th to save on cost, increase air flow, and make the exterior house wall accessible. I also made an egress in the back of the shed in order to get behind the shed if needed.
Instead of roofing shingles, I opted for ribbed metal sheets and one clear sheet in the middle to make a skylight, so there would be light in the shed. This is my favorite part of the project. It was a huge pain to attach the roofing from a ladder with very limited access, but it looks great and I love the light coming in. We have very little rain in CA, so I'll have to wait until winter/rainy season in order to test out its waterproofing.
Since the shed sits between the house and the neighbors block wall fence, and I wanted to use as much of the space as I could, I decided to design the shed to have the side wall against the house rather than the back wall, as shown in the plan. This took a large amount of modifications, but with careful planning and measuring, it can be done. This also meant blocking off access to behind the shed, so I cut an egress in the back wall and added hinges so you can lift the back cut out panel, and rest it on a stop block attached to the fence behind it in order to have access. That's what woodworking is about- problem solving. Love it.
As you can see by the full shed picture, it fits a large amount of stuff- 2 adult bikes, mower, edger, trimmer, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, garden tools, shovels, etc, with plenty of room for more. I now have a free corner in my garage that I've already filled with a DIY rolling workbench and more pegboard space for tool hanging. Woodshop increased space= happy Brittany.
I should also mention that building the frame and adding the pickets was quite a quick and easy job. The hardest and most time consuming part was the roof (I didn't have metal cutting tools), rolling each very heavy wall to the site (I was alone) and the previous 2 weeks in which I built the paver patio the shed sits on. Hard work, but worth it. I love it!
Thu, 08/20/2015 - 05:56
And for under $300! Nice touch with the skylight also. Two thumbs up.
In reply to This is awesome! by Cross35
Thu, 08/20/2015 - 09:42
Thank you! I'm very pleased with how it turned out!
Mon, 04/27/2020 - 10:28
SWEET!!! What a great use of space! That skylight was a brilliant idea. No lights needed to see what you need to get at in there. Well done!
In reply to SWEET!!! What a great use… by carewarner
Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:15
It has been incredibly useful for storing! One thing about the skylight- Over time the sun has warped it and there is now a hole and crack there. So I wouldn't plan on the clear roofing being a long term solution- I will be replacing it with either thicker clear roofing or 2 layers.
Wed, 05/06/2020 - 13:15
Love the design and space saver idea, brilliant! How can I get the dimensions? Tks
In reply to Love the design and space… by shed man
Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:25
I just went out and measured- 6' wide and deep, 7' tall at its tallest point, tapering down to about 5' tall. Hope this helps!
In reply to Love this! by V2theicki
Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:14
I based it off of this plan, but heavily modded it to fit our space. https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/small-cedar-shed
Hope that helps!
Tue, 06/23/2020 - 20:26
This is exactly what I want to do for the side of my home , I also would love to get the plans for this .
In reply to This is exactly what I want… by ajg1972
Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:16
I used Ana's plans here, but heavily modded it to fit my space: https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/small-cedar-shed
Sun, 02/21/2021 - 09:39
Did you use cedar pickets?
And what did you use for the roofing material?
I've been wanting to build this bed for awhile and finally got around to it. I made a few small changes to the plans:
-I used 2x8's instead of 2x6s, so it wouldn't be so low to the ground.
-I ripped 3/8" off of the 2x8 supports in the middle so the mattress would nest inside the frame and not slide around
-I didn't add the headboard because it seemed a bit chunky/rustic for my taste. I will come back and do something else for the headboard. Maybe a cool paneled wall with built in sconces? We'll see!
Love these plans though, appreciate it!
Mon, 07/25/2022 - 21:44
Love the look and your mods, well done! Thank you so much for sharing.
They were simple to make and the plan was easy to follow. The only modification I made was adding the 1x3 topper in place of the longer legs sticking out of the top.
Fri, 07/19/2013 - 06:36
Adding these to my to-do list for spring (yes, I plan ahead). I'm thinking of elevating and elongating them to fit around a bay window.
My home office remodel was inspired by a post from Ana White a few years ago. For this project I ended up using IKEA bookshelves and cutting the tops off and flipping them upside down. I used some crown mounding to cover the base of the cabinets on the tops. The desk top bases are file cabinets I found at the office supply store and the desk tops are edge glue pine. Overall I think I only had to make 8 cuts for the entire project. Saving me a ton of time and money. Thank you Ana for all of the wonderful post!
Mark Danreiter on Facebook
Modified with a high back and modern adirondack arms.
The base of the chair is built exactly to the plan except that the arms are done in a modern adirondack style.
The back was made independently to fit inside the base and then attached to the plan base.
Very comfortable but very heavy chair even without the modified back.
Not stained yet obviously.
Cushions are hard to find I think I would make it slightly smaller next time and maybe even find the cushions first and alter the plan to fit.
Tue, 06/09/2020 - 09:11
Stained with Saman: Urban Grey mixed with some left over brown 4:1 and now has a companion side table
Wed, 06/24/2020 - 07:33
Do you have the plans for the table you built? Im a brand ne beginner. I am trying the modern outdoor chairs and live this table with them.
I built the original cabin bed for my son when the plans first came out and it has been such a huge hit. After seeing the loft version on RH, I decided to modify the original plans in an effort to give my son more floor play space in his room. The loft bed was his Christmas gift and I've never seen him more excited (he's four). Both he and his brother spend hours a day playing in the bed and underneath. It's hands down the most satisfying project I've built.
Mon, 06/24/2019 - 10:00
Hi!
I am so sorry I didn't see this sooner! I added the modified plans to the "blog link" section above. The modifications I made are in red. Feel free to email me if you have questions. I don't seem to get notified of comments on here.
Fri, 06/22/2018 - 17:50
This is absolutely stunning!!! I want to build the same one for my kids' rooms! Did I mention I love the colors as well? You did such a great job! Did you have to add anything for additional support since it's lifted higher than the original plan? Anything else I should be aware of or anything you can share if I were to build this bed? Thank you so much!
Mon, 06/24/2019 - 10:07
Thank you! I'm so sorry for the delayed response. I don't seem to receive notifications of comments on here. No, I did not have to add any additional supports. It is really sturdy. The build itself is very similar to the original, I just adjusted the height of the bed, and changed the dimensions of the upper cabin to leave more space on the bottom for play or another mattress. Hope that helps some. The plans are linked above in the "blog link" section if you're still interested.
Fri, 06/22/2018 - 17:56
Is your room 8' or 9' ceiling. Would you mind sharing your dimensions?
Mon, 06/24/2019 - 10:11
We have 8' ceilings. If you're still interested in the plans, I linked them above in the "blog link" section. Sorry for the seriously delayed response. I apparently need to check my notification settings. Feel free to email me if you have any questions. [email protected]
I took the idea of the "small cedar shed" and decided to upsize it for a new chicken coop. Our old one was small enough that we had to let our six hens out to roam the yard. Chickens. Poop. Everywhere. I wanted one big enough to have them live in it. The nesting box is about 24 sf. The whole coop is 18' long, about 6-1/2' at the back with a 15° slope to the roof, and about 4' deep. I built the ladder up to their nesting box and made a mitre-cut panel under the nesting box for cleaning out, feeding, and watering. Total materials cost was about $1000, but a couple of local homebuilders helped by letting me scavenge the lumber for the nesting box from around houses that they were finished framing.
This is the perfect workbench for my needs.
I upgraded the casters to bigger ones as my shop's floor is in rough shape.
I also added storage under the two work surface next to the miter saw. This was just a matter of closing under the 2X4 frame and making the two sections on casters a little shorter. The only downside for that mod is that the plywood can bend a bit since it is not screwed to the frame. I don't mind since it falls flat as soon as there is weight on it. Also, this mod makes it hard to include fence system (it would need to be removable, like fixed with dowels only, no glue) and almost impossible to include a precise fence system since it would need to be removable. In my case, I do rough, non-repetitive cuts, so there is no need.
TIP : Pay a little extra for smooth plywood. I lost a lot of time sanding mine :(
Tue, 02/04/2020 - 08:21
Awesome! Do you have pictures/info for the cart that has the Dewalt table saw? I have the same one and would love to build the cart for it.
I used Ana’s fireplace plan and added lightweight brick. The vaulted ceilings was a challenge but I figured it out!
Marcia T.
I built the simple 2x4 potting table out redwood in 6’ length.
This was our first build and it was quite a big project to take on to start with. We had so much fun and learned so much along the way.
Our biggest lessons were to hand pick our wood and make sure we get the straightest pieces possible. We had to wrestle some wood to make this bed work! Clamp everything especially when using large bolts as the pieces would pull apart from each other. We even used a ratchet strap at one point becuase our small clamps weren't cutting it. I'm sure there's a better way and we'd love to hear about it but we made what we had work. We also had to figure out how to attach the side rails and at what height. We ended up using 3 4-inch screws on each end to screw them into the posts.
We love this bed not only because it was a labor of love but because its such a solid beautiful piece.
Sun, 03/01/2020 - 11:29
Very nice! I love the lighter wood too, but my wife likes the darker stain, so we compromised in the middle for the finish. Why arethe post always so red? I can appreciate the natural tendency of nature to add color, but the 4*4's are always red-er in color. Do they always use a different pine or certain part of the tree for those?
Mon, 01/18/2021 - 11:27
I believe the posts are actually Douglas fir and not pine judging by the look and color of the grains.