Community Brag Posts

Simple pine farmhouse table, top is 2x6 Pine cut down to 5" wide strips top was joined with pocket screws and glue

Base is 4x4 pine joined with lag bolts

Longest part of the buld was sanding the top smooth, special care was needed in measurig the notches to fix the X-Brace legs

Tools: Drill, Table Saw, Circular Saw, 1/2 socket drive

In my new house we have a small room that can fit a full but also have a tall family, so when I found out that there is a Full XL, I went on the hunt for bed frames and not many choices, so I turned to Ana's site and found/used the essential bed frame for all sizes plan and adjusted it for a FullXL. Our house theme is black and white so we painted it with Ink Black by Behr. Whole frame built for $50 as I already had the paint. My wife loves the frame.

I had been on a search for a while for new furniture for my son’s new big boy bed room but couldn’t justify the money for new furniture and couldn’t find anything remotely nice on craigslist. I ran across this plan on Ana’s site and just had to have it so it became my first large furniture project.
It was fun to build and very rewarding when my son told me he loved his new bed!

I did have some issues with using the kreg jig on the platform so I did use wood screws on the outside frame. I had better success with the kreg jig on the headboard, guess I just needed practice.

There were a few things I did to make it easier to move the bed if needed:
I did not attach the slats but I did lay them on a non skid grip (like you put under rugs on wood floors).
I attached the headboard to the platform using carriage bolts so it could be taken apart easily.

The plans were really easy to follow.

I. LOVE. MY. BATHROOM.

This started with an EPIC FAIL. "Yes Dad I think I hit a pipe with a nail!!!"

Fast forward through plumbing & drywall fixes and life. I added the Board & Batten, made a mirror frame and installed a new mirror. I finally love my guest bathroom.

I modified the plans so the top was 2 ft x 4 ft, more suitable for a college student like myself. I also used a full sheet of 3/4 MDF and used that for the top as well as all of the 3/4 plywood pieces. MDF was much cheaper but next time I would spend the extra money on plywood because the MDF cracked a bunch and was not as easy to work with. Thanks for the plans!

Chicken Coop Built by Dan

Lake house water front DIY bar. Made of treated lumber and pallet wood planks that I cut from collected pallets.

I used pallet wood to create a completely different look for this project. The frame and some of the trim pieces stayed the same, but there were a few edits made to support the pallet top, sides, and shelf. In addition, the drawer design changed a little bit to allow a false front instead of the inset one from the original plan.

More info in the link below!

This is a solid maple desk with two drawers finished with shellac and paste wax. I altered the plan by giving the desk and overhang, as well as changing the way the legs were built.

I made this armless outdoor sofa using scrap teak and Ikea cushions.

This project has been one that I've been putting off for a while now. My wife was threatening to just go out and buy one so I figured it was either now or never! Our little girl loves to help in the kitchen and standing in one of our old wobbly dining chairs just wasn't cutting it anymore.

I knew that I wanted to build something that would be more like an heirloom piece of furniture instead of one of the cheap knockdown types that you see in stores. I am sure that I could have possibly come up with my own design, but Marc already had already come up with a good design in the arts and crafts style, which is my favorite style of furniture. I saw no reason to come up with a "new" design just to say I did, plus I was lazy, and Marc already had plans hahaha. In all honesty, I think sometimes as woodworkers we get in our own way trying to be "original", when at this point, it's pretty much all been done before.

This was our first build alone. I've helped my dad build various things through out the years but was this first time me and my husband built something together.
The bed plans were great and it went together easily. We couldn't find untreated 4x4 posts so we went with two 2x4 sandwiched together, and then we bolted the headboard posts to the footboards. The side rails are plywood trimmed with 1x3's and topped with a 1x2. We also used L brackets to attach the side rails to the head and footboards and addition to bolts on the headboard and 2" screws on the footboard. We needed to assemble the bed in a way we could easily disassemble because we are moving soon.

Two year old is being evicted from the baby room by the baby and we decided to build him a big boy bed using the Kentwood Twin Plan. Used only pine and the mattress is supported by slats. The bed looks great and is incredibly solid. Thank you for the plan, Ana.

I needed more room, so I changed the dimensions to a 4 x 4 table.  Used the same amount of materials.  I made the side leg measurements 48" wide and the cross braces 45".  My top sheet of plywood is 48" x 48" and the bottom sheet is 48" x 41".  The rest of the leg measurements are the same. 

A little overkill on the screws, but made it extra sturdy. 

I saw this site, copied down the materials list, bought everything I needed and was finished before dinner.  I did it all myself, only had my husband cut the plywood, the rest was all me!  Woo hoo, so proud of myself!

I rough sanded the edges and corners to get rid of any splinters.

Made of old fence rail (the dark pieces) and cheap 2x4s and 1x12s .

This is not as stable as I hoped, but for an afternoon's project that got all those tools off the workshop floor, it's not bad. I will add a diagonal brace at the back later. Much later.

NOTE: My engineer friend notes that 2 braces at the rear, below the bottom shelf and below the top shelf, would minimize side-to-side wobbling, and 2 braces front to back, both under the bottom shelf, would minimize the front-to-back wobbling, They could be a scrap of plywood, a 1x6 or wider scrap. Just nail them in two or more places on each of the ladders and they make the structure more rigid. Screw them in if you want a shelf unit you can disassemble.

TIPS:
If you are using pockethole screws, start the screws in all the holes before you put the crosspieces on. Stop when you see the tip of the screw come through the first piece.

Clamp scrap 2x4 to the uprights to hold the crosspieces in place as you drill.

To get the shelves in place, lean the ladders against each other and attach the bottom and top boards on one side. Than pull the other ladder out as far as it needs to go and screw that side of the shelves in place.

Don't try this without clamps.

It could have been cheaper if I had used all reclaimed fence 2x4s, and if my errand runner had bought cheaper 1x12s. He bought top-grade when #2 would have worked for half the price,