Community Brag Posts

I was remodeling my house. I couldn't find anything that I liked in my price range. I decided to try my hand at making some furniture. I'm wasn't sure if this was something I could tackle, but I'm really pleased with how it turned out.

This is a fun project even for beginners. If you have an interest in building a sandbox, and have some tools, I'm sure you can make this easy enough!

I used 2" X 10" wood for my sides instead of the 1" as the plans call for. This gives extra strength and more depth. When you use 2" wood, you will have to turn your 1 X 4's the other way to match the 47½" width, because with the added width of the 2 side boards, your new width is now 49¼". It's not difficult, you just have to match your 1 X 4 X 47½ boards to the proper width. It will turn out fine, they just won't match the plans or pics of those using 1 X 8's for sides.

Sorry, I'm delivering this to my grandson's house for his birthday present, so no sand, but use landscaping cloth under this sandbox, then fill with sand.

One other thing, I'm toying with the idea of matching the angle the backrest is at and re-cut new pieces of 7½" arm rests. I think that may look a little better than the rectangle blocks.

My added pics are as follows:
1. The side boards all cut, and sizing up the frame.
2. All other boards are cut; I laid them out for fit before screwing the pieces together.
3. Using a square will help you keep everything at the correct angles. Also note in this picture and the next where I used two ½" pieces of wood I ripped to keep the ½" spacing uniform. Just rip any wood to the ½" width, make 2 pieces and butt against the next board on both sides, then screw them down. Makes it VERY easy to keep a uniform gap.
4. This picture shows me using the same "spacer" when putting the hinges in place. The red arrow points to the wood spacer.
5. The first bench is complete, and working fine!!

With the wood I used in my project, I used 2½" self tapping deck screws for the frame and attaching the 1X4's to the frame; I used 2" galvanized for attaching the 1X4's to any 2X4's; and for the hinges, I used ¾" wood screws. Using these sizes prevented the screws from coming through the other side.

I bought everything needed in this project at Lowe's and it was under $90 in costs; this is all the lumber (upgrading to 2 X 10's), hinges, screws, and handles.

I had searched for a nice bed frame for the longest time. I wanted something that would last and the prices in furniture stores or antique shops were crazy. I found the plans for the platform bed/headboard and modified them a little. I used 2x12's for the frame and set my 2x6's down inside for my box spring. 2x6's for the headboard and trimmed it the same way as in the plans. I love it. Thanks for the plans Ana.

I liked Kristi's version of the modern craft desk but I decided to add another cubby area. I have a lot of art things and I like for them to be organized. Here is Kristi's version: http://www.ana-white.com/2013/10/kristis-craft-desk

I really love the way it turned out and I've definitely got my use out of it.

I Loved this plan ever since the first day I saw it! I was very intimidated though by the star cut out.

I modified this plan a little, mine is about 6 inches taller than the plan, because I had to fit my daughter's Pottery Barn kids washing machine inside which I believe is bigger than the machines in the original plan. My middle shelf is only about half the width of the shelf pictured, I wanted to add extra space beneath, plus it was the cheapest piece of shelf I found.

For the star cut out, since I did not have a protractor, I cut out little templates with my miter saw at the different angles, I labeled each piece, so I could reuse them if I ever build another one. My daughter loves this wardrobe, so does my son! I am planning on making this again for my son, but making it grey and calling it a "Hockey Locker". Thanks for the plan Ana! This is my favorite plan so far!

First time project, this was a birthday present to the wife. Good project and a very good build. I only modified the length and went with 3 2x10s instead of one. Nice big table that we hope to enjoy for years. The entire table is distressed and we actually went with two stain colors. Dark Walnut on the top and an Ebony on the base.

2x6's all the way up the sides, added window and "roof"

picket fence rails and angled  ladder

I made these for a friend and just loved how they turned out. I liked the stained and black combo it turned out pretty good. I will be making some more for my son and and friend of his along with the sofa as an addition.

This is another one of those, honey I like this projects. My wife was doing her normal primitive furniture web surfing and came across this end table. It's really not to hard to build. All you need is 8ft of 1x10, 5ft of 1x12, 16ft of 1x3, and some spare 1x2 and 1x4. A few simple cuts and then you have a perfect little primitive side table.

My son and I had a blast building this table last October. I have been meaning to write and thank you for the great plans. We took the suggestion of staggering the legs for better access and it turned out great. I also used deck boards for the top to help reduce weight and they were already slightly curved on the sides which made sanding easier. Thank you!
My cost includes a nice Kreg Jig set up (approx $100)

Great plans. Fairly easy project. My husband built it and I stained it, Briarsmoke by Varathane. The most difficult part was to get the bread boards to sit flush with the perpendicular boards when attached. We had to undo and re-do that part several times. We followed the plans and built the table base before adding the bread boards at the end, but my husband decided that it would have been easier to attache one end of each board to the bread board, then attach the perpendicular boards together, then attach the other bread board.

I have done quite a bit of wood working never being great at any of them . But I truly love furniture building.

We had a big ugly frameless mirror in one of restrooms that builder had fitted as standard. Took it down and made this framed mirror instead.

Made from 4 by 1 with routed recess for mirror. Edges are 3 by 1s

Finished in Rustoleum Driftwood and two coats of Minwax Satin WIpe On Poly.

It is quite heavy so I fitted it to the wall with a French cleat made from two scraps of wood which also means it fits flush to the wall.