Rustic X Console Table

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/21/2019 - 09:08
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Build the super popular Rustic X Console Table.  This woodworking project has been built thousands of times and loved the world over.  Its made of construction lumber (yes, 2x4s!) and the plans are easy to follow.  Free step by step plans from

Also in this Collection: Rustic X Coffee Table Plans, Rustic X End Table Plans and Rustic X Bench Plans

ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table

Rustic X Console Features

  • Solid wood design accepts stain beautifully and paints up nicely
  • Extra long length perfect behind sofas, sectionals, as a dining room buffet, or under the TV
  • Storage shelves perfect for displaying and storing 
  • Storage shelves fit most standard baskets
  • Beautiful planked top is full of texture
  • Step by step plans have no exposed screw holes

This beautiful Rustic X Console was built by Hillary from The Friendly Home.  I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!

Easier to Build Option: Farmhouse Console Table Plans

For beginner or novice builders, we have added a easy to build option for this plan, the Farmhouse Console Table plans.  It does NOT require pocket hole screws and is less expensive to build (but there is exposed screw holes).  There is also a video tutorial to help with the build.

Pin For Later! 

Rustic X Console Table

rustic x bench plans dimensions diagram
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List
  • 6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
  • 3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • Corner hardware/decorative bolts
  • 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2" screws
Cut List
  • 12 – 2x2 @ 30”
  • 6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
  • 2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
  • 5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
  • 3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"
Cutting Instructions

NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First build two frames as shown in diagram.

Step 2

Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" pocket holess with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws later on.

Step 3

2x4 end supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Measure the width of your 1x12s and cut the 2x4 supports to match this width.

Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 1-1/2" pocket holes with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Add trim to the shelf.

Step 5

The X can be cut by just placing the uncut board alongside it's permanent position, and marking the overlap with a pencil, and then cutting the pencil lines with a circular saw or jigsaw.

First do the longer piece, then place inside the project, but don't attach yet.

The figure the smaller piece cuts and make those cuts.

Fit the smaller pieces in the project, and trace where they need to be joined to the larger piece.

Remove all pieces and attach the smaller pieces to the longer piece.

Then place the entire X inside the opening and attach.

Step 6

And then add the top. You can build top first with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you.

TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Mon, 05/21/2012 - 20:00

What is a PH screw. I am sure I will feel stupid when you tell me but I have to ask.

In reply to by Jake


Tue, 05/22/2012 - 01:00

PH is short for Pocket Hole screw. They are specific screws made for a pocket hole system. No question is a stupid question on this site. We're all here to to help and encourage each other. Keep 'em coming!!!


Thu, 07/25/2013 - 13:04

I posted a questions to this thread, however, I'm not sure you see it unless I reply directly to your post. I'm just wondering exactly how many pocket hole screws are used on each trim section attaching to shelves, and their approx. placement on the piece. Thanks so much!


Mon, 05/21/2012 - 21:37

I really do play on making this, but first I'm going to try out the finish on the (modified) loft bed that's sitting in my "workshop" (read:kitchen, at least until we get the garage set up right) waiting for me to finish sanding it. I was wanting something more "rustic" like this to match the idea I have for my boys room - almost like they could have been stranded in some jungle somewhere and this is their tree fort. Or at least fort....the tree part is a lot more work, or takes wall painting by someone more artistic than I. Thanks, "Anonymous Coward" for posting the directions!


Tue, 05/22/2012 - 04:04

Thanks TracySmith. I use my Kreg Jig all the time. In fact I just finished the frame for a new gate and it was built with PH joints. I learn something new every day.


Tue, 05/22/2012 - 09:28

I love it! I can't wait to get started on it during the long weekend. Great job!

Kathyy (not verified)

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 15:25

Showed this to my husband last night and he was as excited as I was . We have been looking for a console table and all I find are just not a good fit, but yours is perfect! Love your blog - the directions are great and we can't wait to get started!


Thu, 05/24/2012 - 15:33

Lots of compliments, too, but complements, first. Isn't there a way to cut the complement of the 60-degree angle? Maybe by cutting the board to the length it needs to be at the very point of the angled cut (the longest dimension), then turning the board 90-degrees and cutting a 30-degree angle? (90 - 60 = 30) That would create a 60-degree angle at the other end of the mitered cut. The sum of the angles of a triangle are always 180, and a mitered cut on the end of a board can be figured like a right triangle. 90 degrees is already taken for the right angle (which is a place you're not cutting), so the two angles left have to add up to 90.

I haven't run into the 50-degree limitation, so this is just a guess on a new way to use a saw . . .

But . . .

I do know, from sewing and paper piecing, that it's possible to turn and flip and do all kinds of crazy things with things you cut in order to get what you need at the end. ;o)

Hope this helps! (HTH!)

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