Rustic X Console Table

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/21/2019 - 09:08
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Build the super popular Rustic X Console Table.  This woodworking project has been built thousands of times and loved the world over.  Its made of construction lumber (yes, 2x4s!) and the plans are easy to follow.  Free step by step plans from

Also in this Collection: Rustic X Coffee Table Plans, Rustic X End Table Plans and Rustic X Bench Plans

ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table

Rustic X Console Features

  • Solid wood design accepts stain beautifully and paints up nicely
  • Extra long length perfect behind sofas, sectionals, as a dining room buffet, or under the TV
  • Storage shelves perfect for displaying and storing 
  • Storage shelves fit most standard baskets
  • Beautiful planked top is full of texture
  • Step by step plans have no exposed screw holes

This beautiful Rustic X Console was built by Hillary from The Friendly Home.  I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!

Easier to Build Option: Farmhouse Console Table Plans

For beginner or novice builders, we have added a easy to build option for this plan, the Farmhouse Console Table plans.  It does NOT require pocket hole screws and is less expensive to build (but there is exposed screw holes).  There is also a video tutorial to help with the build.

Pin For Later! 

Rustic X Console Table

rustic x bench plans dimensions diagram
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List
  • 6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
  • 3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • Corner hardware/decorative bolts
  • 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2" screws
Cut List
  • 12 – 2x2 @ 30”
  • 6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
  • 2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
  • 5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
  • 3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"
Cutting Instructions

NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First build two frames as shown in diagram.

Step 2

Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" pocket holess with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws later on.

Step 3

2x4 end supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Measure the width of your 1x12s and cut the 2x4 supports to match this width.

Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 1-1/2" pocket holes with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Add trim to the shelf.

Step 5

The X can be cut by just placing the uncut board alongside it's permanent position, and marking the overlap with a pencil, and then cutting the pencil lines with a circular saw or jigsaw.

First do the longer piece, then place inside the project, but don't attach yet.

The figure the smaller piece cuts and make those cuts.

Fit the smaller pieces in the project, and trace where they need to be joined to the larger piece.

Remove all pieces and attach the smaller pieces to the longer piece.

Then place the entire X inside the opening and attach.

Step 6

And then add the top. You can build top first with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you.

TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Thu, 08/30/2012 - 07:54

Hi there! I'm so happy to have found your site. And I LOVE this table. It's going to go perfectly in my apartment. I just have a few very quick questions that i hope you can help me with. Please forgive my lack of proper terminology..I'm still learning.

1. Did you put PH in the aprons and 2x4's to attach the top? Or, did you just screw straight down through the legs and aprons? Any preference there?

2. Do you think that using a piece of plywood for the top with nosing around the edges could work for the top?

3. When you drill a pocket hole, do you have predrill the other piece as well?

Thank you so much for this site and for your time. :)


Wed, 09/05/2012 - 18:30

We're all still learning. There's nothing pretentious about Ana's site so you never have to be afraid to ask questions! That's what makes it so great.

Answers for you:
1. No. I turned the table upside down and drilled and screwed straight down through the aprons into the underside of the top. It's definitely the easiest way to do it. I can't remember whether I pre-drilled, but if you have a countersink bit (I do not) that might be the way to go. I think I just put a lot of weight into it and since the wood is relatively soft, the head of the screw buried itself. You could do pocket holes on the insides of the aprons instead

2. I suppose ply would work, but you'd lose the rustic-ness and character of the piece. If you are going for a more refined looking table, ply will be perfect.

3. No, don't pre-drill the other piece. The pocket hole screws (definitely use actual pocket hole screws) are made to be self-tapping so they don't split the wood on the other side. That's what makes pocket hole construction super easy for newbies like us. :)


Sun, 04/27/2014 - 06:39

After attempting to build this with my husband, we've run into a few problems. The 2x2's often split when we try to connect them to the 2x4's.. I'm not sure what we're missing here or what we're doing incorrectly.. My husband is an experienced builder, and even he can't figure out what's going on. We are using another brand of a pocket hole system.. Could that be it? Hope you can help..??

After this happened I did some research on the screws and I read an article that explained the difference between self-tapping and self-drilling screws.. Self-tapping screws are not meant for wood projects as they do not provide proper reinforcement. Were you perhaps just using that term interchangeably?

Link to Article:…


Fri, 08/31/2012 - 18:01

My wife has discovered your site, and I am so happy. Don't get me wrong, I like trying to figure out what she wants me to build from a quick description and a "Kinda like this" browse of the internet, but life is so much asier when she hands me a plan and says, "Build this".
Now, I do have a question. Is there a way to get Sketchup Models from you? I need to build this table with different dimensions, and it'd be easier to modify if I had the orginal model. Love the site, I'll be here often.


Wed, 09/05/2012 - 18:35

Hey, Phestr. I'm going to answer this for Ana because I don't know whether she'll see your question. If you contact her directly (try messaging her on FB to get in touch with her -- she's at Knock-Off Wood) you might be able to get the model. But, it might be faster to re-do the dimensions on your own. Good luck!


Wed, 09/05/2012 - 19:25

I'll try that route. I'm not in a terrible hurry, this table is about #3 on my build list.

emilybemly (not verified)

Sun, 09/02/2012 - 20:40

I am going to build this table, if you wouldnt mind, could you please post some pictures of the places where the wood joins to I can just see what its spose to look like? Beautiful table, I cant wait to get started!

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