Rustic X End Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 08/15/2019 - 00:03
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Build your own end tables!  These gorgeous rustic style end tables are built from 2x4s and lumber.  We love the large size and the open bottom shelf. Stain or paint any color. Our beginner friendly plans make it easy with step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.  

Also in this Collection: Rustic X Console Table, Rustic X Coffee Table and Rustic X Bench Plans

rustic x end table plans

Rustic X Living Room Table Collection

This end table is part of a collection of living room furniture that you can build. All the plans are available for free for your use.

It all started with this beautiful X Console Table, built by Hillary from The Friendly Home.

And then we added this beautiful Rustic X Coffee Table, also built by Hillary.

Now, Hillary used up her scraps and built X End Tables!

DIY Wood Finish

Hillary used a steel wool and vinegar solution to age her end table. Want the same finish? Get the step by step tutorial here.

Pin For Later! 

Rustic X End Table

rustic x end table plans
Dimensions shown above.


Shopping List
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 3 feet long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long corner bracket hardware decorative bolts
  • 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws
  • wood glue
Cut List
  • 8 - 2X4 @ 22 1/2" - Legs
  • 4 - 2X2 @ 16" - Trim
  • 2 - 1X12 @ 16" - Bottom shelf
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 13 1/4" (Longest edge, one end cut at 50 degrees off square, other end cut at 10 degrees off square, see diagram) *
  • 5 - 2x6 @ 27" - Top

*You may wish to trace and cut these in place

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Start by building two ends as depicted in diagrams. You can also attach with countersunk 2 1/2" screws and glue.

NOTE: Yellow board width should be 22 1/2"

Step 2

Next attach the 2x2 sides.

Step 3

And then build your bottom shelf and attach to bottom of console.

Step 4

Now it's time to fit your cross braces. A standard miter saw should cut a 50 degree angle off square. If not, you will need to mark it with a square (remember 50 degrees is off square, so that means the angle off the board edge would be 40 degrees.

Another trick is to just hold the board in place, mark the angles, and cut. These aren't support boards or anything like that, so some glue and a few nails or countersunk screws from top/bottom will do the trick.

TIP: We recommend building the entire X first, the attaching the complete X inside the end table.

Step 5

The smaller X pieces can be cut to fit.  Attach with a 1-1/2" pocket hole and 2-1/2" pocket hole screw, one screw per joint.

Step 6

Next build your top ... and attach in place with countersunk 2 1/2" screws. If you have the PH screws on hand, I just use a few of those!

Step 7

And then add the decorative hardware!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Tue, 04/30/2013 - 15:26

Well I just looked through the electronic catalog until I found what I was looking for. There are other sites that offer special hardware so just do a search. Some are really expensive so look around.

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Sun, 09/01/2013 - 10:34

Its amazing to see someone put so much passion into a subject. I’m glad I came across this. I’m glad I took the time to read on past the first paragraph.You’ve got so much to say, so much to offer. I hope people realize this and look into your page.
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Sat, 09/07/2013 - 13:50

I created pocket holes in my bottom shelf as directed, but when I attempt to attach to the 2x4, my screws are entering at an angle that forces them up and through the 2x4, being very visible on the finished piece. Has anyone else had this issue and if so, how'd you fix it? Or am I doing something incorrectly?


Mon, 09/16/2013 - 22:05

Just wondering where the use of counter sink drill bits come into play when making this design? And also what size drill bits are needed. Thanks, love your furniture!

JoNell Lynch

Sun, 01/26/2014 - 19:21

Is there a trick to use with the xs. My table must not have been square and I had a hard time cutting the xs to fit in there snuggly. I still have an end table and a coffee table to build.


Sat, 08/23/2014 - 07:55

I'm very excited to start making this, but I'm a bit confused why all the images say 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. What does this mean? I'll be buying a kreg jig when I buy the lumber.


Sat, 08/23/2014 - 07:55

I'm very excited to start making this, but I'm a bit confused why all the images say 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. What does this mean? I'll be buying a kreg jig when I buy the lumber.

In reply to by terrigarli


Sat, 08/23/2014 - 15:10

PH means Pocket Hole screw. The thickness of the lumber being joined with a pocket hole screw determines the length of screw you should employ. Kreg has a chart you can print out that tells you which length screw to use depending upon the lumber being joined.

Since you are new to using pocket hole joinery let me add that you need several clamps to hold the boards in place when you drive the screws. Otherwise they will take over. This is especially the case if you are connecting a mitered joint. When you near the end of driving the screws do it in little spurts with your drill to firmly seat the screw but also to prevent driving the screw through the board. It happens. Last always complement PH screws with a good wood glue like Titebond II or III.

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