Build the super popular Rustic X Console Table. This woodworking project has been built thousands of times and loved the world over. Its made of construction lumber (yes, 2x4s!) and the plans are easy to follow. Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com.
Also in this Collection: Rustic X Coffee Table Plans, Rustic X End Table Plans and Rustic X Bench Plans
Rustic X Console Features
- Solid wood design accepts stain beautifully and paints up nicely
- Extra long length perfect behind sofas, sectionals, as a dining room buffet, or under the TV
- Storage shelves perfect for displaying and storing
- Storage shelves fit most standard baskets
- Beautiful planked top is full of texture
- Step by step plans have no exposed screw holes
This beautiful Rustic X Console was built by Hillary from The Friendly Home. I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!
Easier to Build Option: Farmhouse Console Table Plans
For beginner or novice builders, we have added a easy to build option for this plan, the Farmhouse Console Table plans. It does NOT require pocket hole screws and is less expensive to build (but there is exposed screw holes). There is also a video tutorial to help with the build.
Preparation
- 6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
- 3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
- Corner hardware/decorative bolts
- 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
- 2 1/2" screws
- 12 – 2x2 @ 30”
- 6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
- 2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
- 5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
- 2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
- 2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
- 4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
- 3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"
NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
First build two frames as shown in diagram.
Step 2
Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" pocket holess with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws later on.
Step 3
2x4 end supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Measure the width of your 1x12s and cut the 2x4 supports to match this width.
Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 1-1/2" pocket holes with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Add trim to the shelf.
Step 5
The X can be cut by just placing the uncut board alongside it's permanent position, and marking the overlap with a pencil, and then cutting the pencil lines with a circular saw or jigsaw.
First do the longer piece, then place inside the project, but don't attach yet.
The figure the smaller piece cuts and make those cuts.
Fit the smaller pieces in the project, and trace where they need to be joined to the larger piece.
Remove all pieces and attach the smaller pieces to the longer piece.
Then place the entire X inside the opening and attach.
Step 6
And then add the top. You can build top first with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you.
TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.
Comments
In reply to Decorative corner pieces by george and jacks mom (not verified)
hillarylouise
Wed, 09/05/2012 - 18:38
decorative hardware
The hex bolts and corner brackets are from Lowe's. They're silver ones found in the hardware aisle -- the corner brackets come in 2-packs, I think. They're "Stanley" brand. The hex bolts are from the bulk bins. They're 1/2" size, if I remember right. I sprayed them all with flat black spray paint.
skrew37
Thu, 02/06/2014 - 07:33
It's important to get the
It's important to get the Stanley brand brackets because the other brands have a little indent in the inside corner preventing it from sitting flush against the outside corner of the table top.
AngieDee83 (not verified)
Thu, 09/06/2012 - 17:27
Do I need to use a Kreg Jig & PH screws?
I don't have a Kreg Jig so I'm wonering if I can build this without one. If so, what do you suggest I do & if not, which Kreg Jig would you recommend that I purchase? Thank you for this tutorial so much! This piece, with the exact dimensions, is going to be more than perfect in our home!
Hillary (not verified)
Sun, 09/23/2012 - 12:05
You could do it without a
You could do it without a Kreg Jig. Just get a good countersink drill bit and use big deck screws. You'd have to join the top boards using mending plates, I think. A big set of clamps and wood glue would help, too.
RobKelly3
Tue, 09/11/2012 - 08:26
PH
Hi All! I'm sorry, I have another very newbie question...when you have to cut a piece of wood at an angle but also need to attach with pocket hole screws, using the Kreg Jig, do you drill the pocket holes before you cut? Or do you drill after you've cut? Like for the X-Console, for X pieces, do you drill the pocket holes before you cut the angles on the ends, or do you cut them first? If you cut them first, how do you orient the wood in the jig to drill the holes? I'm sorry if this is a redundant question. Thanks so much!
Hillary (not verified)
Sun, 09/23/2012 - 12:00
Drill after cutting and just
Drill after cutting and just hold it straight up in the jig. On this piece, I drilled the holes on the insides of the Xs. On the next two X pieces I built, I didn't use the Kreg Jig to attach the Xs; I just screwed them in at an angle.
ErinElizabeth (not verified)
Mon, 09/17/2012 - 18:53
No Kreg Jig?
I guess my question is the same as the one above mine; how difficult is this without the Kreg Jig? Or, what is your opinion on the Kreg Jig mini? At $22, it's a lot easier to convince my husband than the $100 a normal one costs... :)
Hillary (not verified)
Sun, 09/23/2012 - 11:57
I used the Mini for a lot of
I used the Mini for a lot of projects before I was ready to buy the full Kreg Jig. But, with the Mini you'll need to buy at least one Kreg face clamp to hold the Mini onto the piece of wood you're drilling, and you should probably also have a Kreg corner clamp, which has one end that clamps into the Kreg hole you've drilled. So it will still end up costing you around $75 total, probably. I think the full Kreg jig comes with a face clamp.
JBurke (not verified)
Fri, 09/21/2012 - 16:14
In LOVE!
I am so in love with this piece. It is exactly what I want. How much would it cost if you made me one? : ) I just don't all of the tools to do this and I have never built a pieces of furniture before.
Hillary (not verified)
Sun, 09/23/2012 - 11:55
Hi, JBurke. If you're really
Hi, JBurke. If you're really interested in having one built, email me at hillary (dot) dickman (at) gmail (dot) com and we'll chat. The shipping may not be worth it, but we'll see!