Build the super popular Rustic X Console Table. This woodworking project has been built thousands of times and loved the world over. Its made of construction lumber (yes, 2x4s!) and the plans are easy to follow. Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com.
Also in this Collection: Rustic X Coffee Table Plans, Rustic X End Table Plans and Rustic X Bench Plans
Rustic X Console Features
- Solid wood design accepts stain beautifully and paints up nicely
- Extra long length perfect behind sofas, sectionals, as a dining room buffet, or under the TV
- Storage shelves perfect for displaying and storing
- Storage shelves fit most standard baskets
- Beautiful planked top is full of texture
- Step by step plans have no exposed screw holes
This beautiful Rustic X Console was built by Hillary from The Friendly Home. I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!
Easier to Build Option: Farmhouse Console Table Plans
For beginner or novice builders, we have added a easy to build option for this plan, the Farmhouse Console Table plans. It does NOT require pocket hole screws and is less expensive to build (but there is exposed screw holes). There is also a video tutorial to help with the build.
Preparation
- 6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
- 3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
- Corner hardware/decorative bolts
- 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
- 2 1/2" screws
- 12 – 2x2 @ 30”
- 6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
- 2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
- 5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
- 2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
- 2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
- 4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
- 3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"
NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
First build two frames as shown in diagram.
Step 2
Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" pocket holess with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws later on.
Step 3
2x4 end supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Measure the width of your 1x12s and cut the 2x4 supports to match this width.
Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 1-1/2" pocket holes with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Add trim to the shelf.
Step 5
The X can be cut by just placing the uncut board alongside it's permanent position, and marking the overlap with a pencil, and then cutting the pencil lines with a circular saw or jigsaw.
First do the longer piece, then place inside the project, but don't attach yet.
The figure the smaller piece cuts and make those cuts.
Fit the smaller pieces in the project, and trace where they need to be joined to the larger piece.
Remove all pieces and attach the smaller pieces to the longer piece.
Then place the entire X inside the opening and attach.
Step 6
And then add the top. You can build top first with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you.
TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Brooke smith (not verified)
Mon, 09/24/2012 - 17:20
Im to the "x" stage and I'm
Im to the "x" stage and I'm about to pull my hair out!!!! Hahaha
My miter saw does not do 60's and I'm not great yet with the circular saw. Obviously. I don't want to give up but I'm stuck!!!!!! Lol
Brooke smith (not verified)
Mon, 09/24/2012 - 17:20
Im to the "x" stage and I'm
Im to the "x" stage and I'm about to pull my hair out!!!! Hahaha
My miter saw does not do 60's and I'm not great yet with the circular saw. Obviously. I don't want to give up but I'm stuck!!!!!! Lol
Hillary (not verified)
Mon, 09/24/2012 - 18:28
For the Xs I had to pull the
For the Xs I had to pull the 2x2 out away from the fence. I first held the 2x2 up to the console and marked where I needed to cut. Then I lined up my miter saw blade with the mark and then cut. It was (I'm sure) not the safest way to do it but I kept a lot of pressure on the 2x2 and kept my hands far, far away from the blade. Good luck. :)
claydowling
Mon, 09/24/2012 - 20:27
Tenon saw
You can get an inexpensive back saw at most home centers or hardware stores. They're great for these kinds of inconvenient cuts. If you haven't used a saw like this before you should look up some of the videos out there on cutting with hand saws (especially First Class Cuts).
It's a versatile tool. I use one of these saws, a cheap chisel, a speed square and a sharp pocket knife to build a desk on Saturday.
mblee (not verified)
Tue, 10/02/2012 - 08:33
What type of wood did you use?
Do you use just regular "white wood" like you get at lowes, home depot, or any other fine home store? Pressure treated or just plain stud lumber.
Brooke Smith (not verified)
Tue, 10/02/2012 - 08:48
Wood
I just used the cheapest of each kind. My 2x4 were studs.
Also make sure you get the straightest boards possible. I found this out the hard way. The 2x2's are the hardest ones to find good ones but it makes this project A LOT easier if they are straight! Lol
Good luck!
Hillary (not verified)
Tue, 10/02/2012 - 10:57
The 1x12s for the shelves
The 1x12s for the shelves were whitewood, which I think is the same as (or similar to) #2 Pine. The 2x2s were furring strips, which are whitewood too, I think. Brooke is right -- they are really hard to find straight and some days you have to leave and come back after they've gotten a fresh shipment. The 2x4s and 2x6s were fir. Do not use pressure treated lumber for this project unless you're planning to put it outside. Even then, you could get away without it, I think.
All the lumber for this project came from Lowe's. In my town, Lowe's has okay lumber for rustic projects, but HD is much better if you want higher quality (straight) boards. That probably isn't true everywhere. It definitely pays to look at both places or other lumber yards in your town.
Cliff (not verified)
Thu, 10/25/2012 - 11:39
Rustic X console?
I was wondering if any of you all have had to put a support piece of wood in the middle for the two shelves?
Hillary (not verified)
Thu, 10/25/2012 - 14:41
rustic x console
Nope, no support. But it does have pocket screws joining it to the middle legs.
Odu2010 (not verified)
Fri, 11/02/2012 - 06:34
Middle shelves
Love it. But do you attach the middle shelves. I have never used ph and I am not sure by the instructions on how to do the middle shelves. Also, if I was not going to use ph how would I attach the middle shelves? Thank you!