Community Brag Posts

Shirley Modified

Submitted by Kiely54 on Tue, 04/29/2014 - 08:33

My husband and I built this together. Well, I helped! It was my first time using power tools. I'm the one who designs and picks out themes/colors and he does the manual labor but I wanted to learn a few things this time.
We modified the Shirley Console table and combined a few features from some of the other console tables. As you can see we modified the front of the drawers. We wanted the table to match our decor but also wanted some of the wood to show. I said, "I wish they made gray stain!" Miniwax does! This was our first experience. It was challenging because it dries so quickly and you are threatened with an uneven look but we love the way it turned out. We also bought pine instead of plywood so i cost a bit more but it was worth it! It also took us a bit longer because this was our first project and we modified the measurements to fit our entryway.
I chose these drawer pulls to match my gray and white damask curtains that hang nearby. I purchased them in brushed nickel from Home Depot for ~$3 each and spray painted them white. When I told people what I was doing I got negative feedback but I think they turned out great! Now to decorate it and make a matching entertainment center!
Also the Kreg Jig was a HUGE help...it really makes the piece look professionally made!! Thanks ana-white.com!!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Water based stain in Slate. We chose this because our living room has a lot of gray but also slate and blue mixed in and we thought this shade might be slightly blue tinted but it is not. It is a true, cool-toned gray.
It has 3 coats of stain each left on for 5 minutes and then wiped off with a clean rag. We lightly sanded between each coat and then applied 3 coats of satin polycrylic clear finish, sanding between those coats as well. We prefer the satin look which matches our hardwood floor that we sanded down to the original wood and applied a satin clear coat as well.
My husband did all of the staining and it is very time consuming especially with the water based stain because it dries so quickly you really have to move fast. An oil or gel based stain would be easier but we were not fond of any gray colors offered in either of those. My husband is requesting I stain the entertainment center that we plan on making otherwise it will be painted!
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

freefromburdens

Tue, 04/29/2014 - 08:44

That looks great. I understand getting negative feedback. Most people think you have to have special training to build. I used to be skeptical until I began building. I hope your build let them know they can do it also. Keep it up...

justindalby

Tue, 10/14/2014 - 09:35

I love your modified version.  I am going to build this as well.  I absolutely love the modification that you made on the drawer faces.  Can you provide any instructions/hints to help me achieve the same look on the drawer faces?  Thanks!

Kiely54

Thu, 10/30/2014 - 15:32

I know that some of the wood measurements were not available at our local hardware store, which resulted in the sides being "trimmed out," so we decided to make the drawers match. We built the drawers like the plan, except we subtracted 1/4" from the depth of the drawers. We made the drawers (minus the trim pieces), slid them in the table, and while in place, nailed 1-1/2" x 1/4" trim pieces around the perimeter of the drawer faces using a finishing nail gun. This made the trim pieces flush with the face of the table. 

Not sure if that made sense or not...I'm not good at explaining things in writing. If it doesn't, just let me know and I'll try again. And thanks for the compliment on the table!

justindalby

Wed, 01/20/2016 - 08:59

Thanks for your feedback on my post a while ago.  I finally build this piece and are absolutely happy with it.  We used your technique for the drawer faces, and my wife was so obssessed with your drawer pulls, that she tracked them down and special ordered them from our local Menards.  I have uploaded a Brag and gave you credit for the idea.  Thanks for the inspiration!

Stained, whitewashed, and sealed!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 07/31/2016 - 16:23

2x4ncoffee table 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Blue tint wood stain. White wash. Sanded, & sealed with clear paint & primer Simi gloss.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Modified Queen Farmhouse Bed

Submitted by AmandaMC on Fri, 05/22/2020 - 07:34

First bed I have made (did it alone). I used the plan but made some modifications - added depth to the headboard for running lights and independent light switches on each side, added upholstered panels and raised the footboard.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$250-$275
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Ebony Stain with brush on Satin Poly
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Dog Food Storage Box

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 01/29/2024 - 12:00

I've been searching for a pet food bin for a while now, and started looking for something cuter than an ugly plastic bin. I found a few things on Etsy but none were big enough and also cost a lot of $$$. I took the Modern Cedar Outdoor Storage Bench plans, and modified the size to fit large bags of dog and cat food from Costco, or pet food bins. I'm 55 years old and have fixed things around the house, but this was my first time building something.
I am so happy with how this turned out! I found the dog bone handle online and my daughter painted the paw prints. Way cuter than what I found online and I built it using reclaimed wood I had laying around - my only cost was the handle. Thanks Ana!

Heather Durand https://www.facebook.com/pinkprincesshc

Cubby Craft Shelf

Submitted by brian1630 on Sun, 07/15/2012 - 19:49

This is the first project I tried, and it really took a whole lot longer than it should have. I started it without all the tools I really needed to do it the way that I wanted to, so it sat upstairs with no trim on it being used for probably 2-3 months. I managed to pick up a sander, and then I finally saw a sale at Lowe's for a finish nailer and air compressor combo that was too good to pass up, and was ready to put the trim on it. Then when I finally had everything, I was able to finish it in about a week, between the sanding and the sanding and the sanding.. and then the sanding! The stain and finish took a few days too. I definitely learned a lot from this project, definitely check for square to cut down on sanding time to make things line up, and go easy on the wood glue. Trying to sand it off of the exposed parts of the wood are a real pain. Then a big thing I learned the hard way was to be careful with the stainable wood putty, I read that it would be good to use a Qtip to put wood putty in the holes. Sanding all of the excess putty off the wood was a really time consuming process, but I do think that mistake did make for an extra smooth finish, I must have spent an entire day sanding all the excess wood putty off that was dried on from my original mistakes. All in all it was a great learning experience, and I really did have a lot of fun with this one. Can't wait to start my next project, thanks a lot Ana! You really are an inspiration to those of us who are still learning, and I can't wait to explore my new hobby a little further in the future and see where I can go with it.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
1 thick coat of Minwax Red Oak and 3 coats of Minwax Semi Gloss polyurethane. I sanded the whole thing with 220 grit between the 1st and 2nd coats of poly, then just sanded the outside between the 2nd and 3rd coats.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

childrens garden arbor bench

Submitted by jarsofclay on Sat, 05/03/2014 - 17:55

I been wanting to make this for a long time and today I just went out to my work shop and did it. It was fun to make. I didnt have any 1x6s so I used 9 1x4 and 1/8" spacing it worked and looks amazing!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
I used a pale green. Unintentionally the exact same color as picture.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Chaise lounge chairs

Submitted by jsutton78 on Wed, 08/03/2016 - 09:35

These lounge chairs were made from 100% redwood.  The cushions were from Pottery Barn and were about $130 each.  

 

I went off Ana's plans but also had inspiration from other sources.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$330
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Solid stain and gloss finish.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Under Sink Shelf

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 02/05/2024 - 09:03

We live in an old house with lots of windows in the kitchen but not much storage space. Having previously tackled a kitchen island with the help of ana-white.com, I knew that the Under Sink Kitchen Organizer Shelf would be a much simpler project. We already had the tools and screws, so I picked up a couple of 3-foot 1x8s for about $7. The organizer is 20 inches high, 15 inches wide, and 7-1/4 inches deep. The shelf is only about 6-1/2 inches deep because I used 1x8 for the back, but it works.

King Size Platform Frame

Submitted by EndGrain on Wed, 07/18/2012 - 08:46

I based my bed off of the Fillman Platform Bed plans. Just bumped the dimensions up to fit my mattress and added the mid supports. The frame was built using 2x6 boards taken from a fallen barn. I ripped 2 2x6 boards down the center to make the the supports for the slats. My feet are 3 2x6's screwed together and then attached to the frame. Next time I will cut a notch out of the feet so that I can rest the bed on them and then try to find some old lag bolts to attach them to the bed. The frame was put together using a Kreg Jig. I put the Cedar boards on to dress the front and sides up some and to help keep the slats from showing when the sheets were tucked in. My finish is 1 coat of Linseed Oil and 2 coats of Teak Oil.

Let me know if you have any further questions on this build. As soon as I find some doors I will be building a head board for this bed.

Estimated Cost
$150 ish
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Linseed and Teak Oil
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Rustic X Console Table

Submitted by buffy0506 on Wed, 05/07/2014 - 08:22

I needed a console table for an area by our front door. The plan as written was too long, so I adjusted the length to 42". I also needed it to hold books and files, so I adjusted the shelf heights, changing the overall height to 32".

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
I used Rustoleum Dark Walnut on the top with 3 coats of Minwax Polyurethane. For the base, I made chalk paint following the recipe on Lowes.com. For the paint color, I used a quart of Clark Kensington (from Ace) Spiced Paprika flat. I put 3 coats of satin poly on the shelves only.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Wood Headboard, Queen Size

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 08/08/2016 - 08:11

This was my first building project. It was a easy build even for a beginner. Make sure you measure your bed frame and that it will fit into your headboard. 

Estimated Cost
75-100
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Dark Walnut
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Farmhouse Small End Table

Submitted by mpjacob08 on Mon, 05/25/2020 - 09:33

My 2nd ever build! Made to match farmhouse beginner coffee table. This is the smaller size posted. So Easy! Thank you for the plan and for the videos. I love them and am learning so much!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Varathane golden oak stain, spray shellac, Varathane water based polyurethane
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Fancy X Farmhouse Table - modified

We used the wonderful Fancy X Farmhouse table plan with modifications. We needed the table to be shorter for our space, so we shortened it by 12" - this brought the angled pieces closer - we chose to do this instead of altering the angles. Also, we used 4 X 4 posts for the double 2 X 4's and also the cross pieces and angled pieces. I posted two blog posts about the process with lots of pictures, including how we rounded the ends per the plan. The finish is a equal mix of dark walnut and classic grey, finished with Trewax.

Great plan - we are so pleased with the results, and the price tag!!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Equal mix of Minwax Dark Walnut and Classic Grey. Finished off with Trewax and buffing.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Dananichols

Thu, 07/19/2012 - 07:45

Thanks Whitney - we are lucky to have access to untreated 4 X 4's at our local orange store. I tend to buy an extra one every time as I am afraid they will stop carrying them!

Barbara burns (not verified)

Mon, 07/23/2012 - 15:12

I am a newby to wood working and am in love with this table. I have all the pieces cut for the sides, will also be changing the length and will make those cuts later. I am a little insecure on the nailing/screw directions...placement, size, where to hide?, etc. would love to know where yours are placed and what you used. (I did purchase a Kreg jig for pocket screws).
Thanx for any support you might have.

Barbara burns (not verified)

Mon, 07/23/2012 - 15:14

I am a newby to wood working and am in love with this table. I have all the pieces cut for the sides, will also be changing the length and will make those cuts later. I am a little insecure on the nailing/screw directions...placement, size, where to hide?, etc. would love to know where yours are placed and what you used. (I did purchase a Kreg jig for pocket screws).
Thanx for any support you might have.

Dananichols

Mon, 07/23/2012 - 18:31

Barbara -

I posted a link above to my blog - I have two posts about the table and lots of pictures, including pics of where I placed the screws. The only place I used the pocket screws (great purchase by the way, have used mine so much!) was to attach the 4 X 4 cross beams (you can use them on 2 X 4's as well if you are following the plan). Hop over and have a look - lots of pictures - and hopefully that will help with you questions!

Thanks - and have fun!

Dana

Kristine Faldik (not verified)

Mon, 07/30/2012 - 03:37

Dana,

This table is just gorgeous! My husband and I are building a house and have been looking to find the perfect table for weeks now. Just stumbled upon yours and fell in love! We are going to try and use your modifications to the original plan as well, thank you so much for sharing. Hope we can do this too!!!!!

Thanks!

Kristine

valery (not verified)

Sat, 10/27/2012 - 06:45

NEED one of these...
I've NEVER done a project like this and i'm not even near crafty but this is the first thing I see on Pintrest that made me even want to attempt doing it!

Is it wide enough that the cross beams don't annoy you when you are sitting?

TammyLGK

Wed, 02/12/2014 - 11:20

Dana thanks to your informative blog detailing what you did for the rounded legs you have saved my project! I really did not want to resort to the the angled leg cuts. I just could not figure out the 30 & 45 degree cuts. I as well was originally trying to make them on the same piece. THANK YOU!

4X4 Truss Beam Table

I came across some old 4x4s left over at my job so I decided to do something with them. I was in desperate need of an outdoor table. I found the plans for this table, grabbed the 4x4s I needed and went to work. The 4x4s where in really rough shape. It took me about 7 hours to sand them down to bare wood. In a way I was ok with how old they where because I didn't have to wait to stain them. One thing I would do if I could do it over again is stain, paint and protect the wood before I assembled the table. I had a hard time protecting the table top cracks. Down the road I may epoxy resin the top. I also have the wood ready for the matching 4x4 truss benches, so those are soon to come.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$250
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
First I coated the entire table with a new stain from Minwax called Weathered Oak. Then I painted all the spots I was going to distress Geyser blue from Glidden. Then I painted the lower part of the table Milky white from Glidden. I distressed the table using an electric palm sander with 220 grit sand paper. As I ran the sander down the wood It found high spots on it that made for a very natural ware pattern. I kept the top of the table the Weathered oak stain color and coated the entire table with Rustoleum Painters touch clear gloss.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Faux Antique Arched Windows

Submitted by sraper2 on Thu, 08/11/2016 - 19:02

I made these windows to layer with an actual antique window I have.  I made a template out of kraft paper, traced it on wood, and cut it out with a jigsaw.  There are step by step instructions for making the template on my blog!

Estimated Cost
$10
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
Chalk Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Simple end tables

I used off cuts from other projects to make these and they look great on our front porch.

Estimated Cost
$0
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Dropzone Cabinet

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 02/13/2024 - 12:54

My son asked me to build him a cabinet for his drop zone. It turned out awesome.

 

Weathered Gray Fancy X Farmhouse Table With Extensions

This is our attempt at the Fancy X Farmhouse Table. My husband and I built this over a weekend. We modified our table from the plans, making ours shorter and wider. We also added extensions and changed out a few boards for a bit of a different look from the exact plan. We created a custom finish with a few cheap and easy steps to get the look we wanted. Our table is 84" long by 46" wide. The original plans for the table called for it to be 96" long by 37" wide. We added a fifth board to our table top, thus making our tabletop 9.25" wider (since a 2x10 is actually 9.25" wide.) To account for this, we simply increased the width of the base boards by 9.25". As for the length, since our table was 12" shorter than the plan, we decreased the length of the two support boards running between the bases by 12" to account for that. We had to adjust the length of our decorative pieces somewhat, because of the wider base and shorter length. It was bit of trial and error but we were happy with what came out of it. For the center base post, instead of using 2x4's we used one 4x4 which was clean, square, and straight. We were happy with how things turned out for the base. Perhaps our biggest alteration was the fact that we added extensions to each end. To do this, we cut out 3.5" slots in the top of the base so a 2x4 could slide in. We then took two 2x8's and used pocket holes to bring them nice and tight. With the extensions in place, our table is nearly 10 feet long! As for the finish, we wanted a weathered gray color and were able to come up with it through a three step process. Its really beautiful in person! Thanks again for the plan

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$80-$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Custom!
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Darcy Taylor (not verified)

Tue, 08/07/2012 - 03:10

Could you possibly give me a detailed explanation of how you finished this table? I love, love, love the color and want to replicate it.
Thanks!
Darcy

Jennifer Nealy (not verified)

Tue, 09/25/2012 - 09:06

Beautiful table, but I really want some information on the 3-step process you used to get the weathered gray look. Can you please provide that information? Thanks!

SawgrassHomeGirl

Sun, 04/07/2013 - 20:40

Thank you for your interest in the finish....we used regular pine from Orange and Blue. We used a mixture of steel wool and vinegar in a glass jar, let it sit for a night or two, then brushed it on evenly over each board. We then let that sit for a night or two and then proceed to whitewash the entire table (two parts water one part paint.) After that, we took Dark Walnut Stain and wiped it over each board, then quickly wiped/scrubbed it off after just a minute or two. That's how we did it!

Id suggest practicing first with some scrap , esp. with the steel wool mixture so you can see how the wood changes. :)

FLKS

Fri, 09/23/2016 - 15:24

Hi Emily! 

 

        I love your table. We are about to make one and love your stain. Would you be so kind to give me details of what you used to achieve the look? I read the above post, but could you give me brands and colors? I don't understand what is steel wash- is that the color? 

Thank you so much!

 

FLKS

ajdriscoll08

Mon, 09/09/2013 - 11:40

but when we brushed on the steel wool/vinegar mixture, the holes on the table top and base that we had filled in with putty didn't really stain...did you run across the problem? I don't see any areas on the top of your table where you can tell where the holes were??

rmf

Wed, 04/09/2014 - 09:05

I'm curious if you made the extensions permanent or if they can be removed and added as you need? I love this table!
Thanks,

Jenni2526

Wed, 08/13/2014 - 11:50

I am not understanding how you made the extensions from your description and then looking at the end pictures... Would you please explain this a little further and how they are stored and placed for use and how this works? Thank you!

Ren.K777

Tue, 10/07/2014 - 17:39

LOVE the finished product! I aim to get the hubby to make this one at some point!  But for now, we have just a bench in our kitchen that he made and I'd like to apply the same finish you did.  I've looked at a bunch of different tutorials but I like yours the best.  Here's the question...how long after I apply the paint/water mixture to I apply the walnut stain? Do I apply the water/paint and wipe off right away?  A few seconds later?  A minute later?  Do I allow the applied/wiped water/paint mixture to dry completely before adding the stain or do I want to apply the stain before it's throughly dry so that it mixes a bit for a softer look?  Thanks so much!  

 

Back