Truss End Table
Loved this project, it gave me a chance to work on angled cuts. For the finish I used Minwax Express Color in Walnut.
Loved this project, it gave me a chance to work on angled cuts. For the finish I used Minwax Express Color in Walnut.
This was a quick fun project that took less than 6 hours. I wanted a doll house that was gender neutral and this is perfect, I love that my son and daughter can plan together or separate the pieces and play separately. 1 piece of advice, spend a little extra on plywood, sanding was the most time consuming part of this project and I am still a little nervous about my kids getting splinters.
I modified this plan for the short leg to only be 37.5" and the long leg is 60" to fit my space. The bottom is painted white pine, and the top is poplar stained with Minwax Honey and 2 light coats of poly. I also cut a 45* angle in the top to make sitting in the corner a bit more comfortable.
Project was completed in one week (including finish drying time) for about $100.
This was the first bed I built from Ana's plans... Actually it was the first thing i have built since 7th grade shop class in 97' (ew) .. It was fairly easy, but I still had my up and downs! I actually held back tears a few times and almost gave up... BUT I didn't, or you wouldn't be reading this ;) No, I pulled up my big girl pants and I finished this bad boy up, and am now laying on it while writing my brag post, holla!! Anyway, after doing it once, I think it would be super easy to build another, if I decided to. It was all worth it though, this bed is absolutely stunning and everything I dreamed it would be. In short, if you're thinking about building this, do it! It took me almost a year to work up the courage, and that's just dumb :)
Building:
I pretty much followed the directions to a 'T', but I did use 3 an 4.5 inch LAG SCREWS and did not have a nailer so I used an old school hammer. Advice: if your lumber yard, or hardware store will cut your wood for you- LET THEM! Even though I did it myself an it was easy, it would have saved me soo much time if I let them do it right there at the store (sigh). If you have any questions feel free to ask me and I'll help as much as possible!
P.S. this thing is a mammoth, so be prepared for that.
Thu, 02/28/2013 - 01:14
I read on someone else's page that she had made her plans for the queen matteress to be turned sideways, and that the plans needed to altered as far as measurements go,is that true? Any info would be a huge help!
Mon, 04/29/2013 - 19:44
How did the lag screws work? Do they bolt right through and show on the other side? Your bed looks great, and I hope mine will too!
Mon, 01/16/2017 - 12:46
Where can I find the plans for this bed? I would like to use pallets..is that possible?
Everyone keeps asking me if this was from a kit and I am proud to say "No I did it all by myself from start to finish"!
This is my first woodworking project. The plans worked out great! However I did make some minor changes. I made the two by four under the two by six top an inch longer on each end. I also did not brad nail the 1x4 trim pieces. I used wooden dowels and wood glue. Also I bought bed rail brackets and mounted the side rails flush to the outside of the head and footboard. This piece was conditioned with Charles Neil's Prestain conditioner and stained with minwax English chestnut. Topcoat is minwax semigloss fast drying poly and rubbed out with minwax paste wax. Can't wait to get to sleep in it tonight!!
Tue, 11/13/2012 - 00:14
Good Day Ana! I just started a daycare centre and would like to make my own tables,chairs bookshelves etc. I want to know if you could assist me in this matter
God bless you
Basetsana Maboe
I used the woven back bench plans to make this doctor who tardis inspired bench. It will be a memorial bench for a young girl who recently passed in our community. She loved doctor who as do I so I changed the back a bit to represent the Tardis windows and of course painted it tardis blue. I will also give it two coats of polycyclic.
Added deeper sides to the project so I could fit an electric fireplace into it
I'd been looking for a similar table for months but couldn't find one that I liked and that would fit at the bottom of my stairs. I found this pattern and changed the dimensions by removing just one of the top boards so that the final depth is 10.5" deep rather than 14". It's exactly what I wanted and get to brag about it!
I made this craftsman frame to fit a 16" x 24" chalkboard. I followed the plan, using 1x3's and 1x2's, attached with a Kreg Jig which made it easy. Oh, and glue. I usually buy full sheets of plywood and paint them with chalkboard paint but time was short and I used a 24" x 48" prepainted panel. I cut three 16" x 24" chalkboards from this panel.
I allowed 1/2" all around the inside dimension in order to glue and staple the chalkboard to the back of the frame. I decided to paint them all with a barn red paint sample. Cheap enough and they're going under the tree to three family members!
Very good plans to work from, and very adaptable! I modified the plan to add a sloping lip, which I think finishes the look. I was using old weathered cedar, so I contrasted that with cabinet style joinery (all mitered joints). I like the difference between the old distressed wood and the more refined joints. I set the skill level at "advanced" due to the compound mitered cuts required. I would be happy to supply the miter and bevel angles if anyone is interested.
One small suggestion: I found the diagram of the cuts for the sides to be confusing because the diagram of the piece of wood, which is rectangular, looks slanted in the perspective view. I would project the rectangle flat (all right angles) so that the angled cuts are clearer, and not confused with the "angles" of the sheet itself.
Thanks for a great idea!
We made some significant changes to the shelves/cupboards. Since we were on a bit of a time constraint with the impending arrival of our little bundle of joy, we decided to nix the drawers all together and instead make three open face shelves. This made the larger cupboard and door face area a little shorter than in Ana's plans. We made most of these changes on the fly while sitting in the garage..
We have a big move coming up and probably won't put the hutch, center base, and side bases together until after the move. We'll post pictures of everything put together once we get settled.
Oh, and for some reason I've been calling this the Madison Changing Table. . When it is actually called the Madeline Changing Table.. whoops!
We wrote up general directions with pictures here: http://thehuth.blogspot.com/2012/11/madison-changing-table-part-3-cente…
Excellent plans, fit my 15 month old nephew and 8 year old daughter! Easy to follow plans
Sliding door console built by Kathryn and Scott Winkler of K & S Coastal Home Furnishings. Kathryn added her own unique chippy finish to set this piece off!
My husband and I used our Thanksgiving break to build this playhouse and deck, using Ana's plans. We are NOT builders...this is very doable for beginners with the right tools. Read the plans thoroughly before starting. Total cost (including all lumber, hardware, and paint) was under $600.
We still have door and house trim to complete, a little painting, and a handrail/ladder.
Santa may bring a slide and some other fun accessories!
Thanks Ana!!!!!
This was my first project and it turned out way better than I expected. One of the most time consuming parts was finding pieces of wood that were not warped from Home Depot. The Xs really make the table look amazing, and even though mine are not perfectly symmetrical, I think I did pretty well since my compound miter saw will only cut up to 45 degrees. I had to use a jig saw for the 60 degree cuts, which was kind of a nightmare.
Tue, 09/09/2014 - 09:46
MBuckson, nice job on the table, it looks great. A 60 degree cut is the same as a 30 degree cut, cut backwards. Because Miter saws work with a straight line (180 degrees) the middle postion is 0 (90 degrees) depending on which way you flip the board your are working with. So the 45 degree postions are half of the 90 degree (0 postion). If you want a sixty degree cut add fifteen degrees to the 45, which you would actually subtract the 15 to get 30 degrees since you are flipping the board and cutting it backwards. Or atleast that is how I understand it.
Wed, 09/24/2014 - 16:37
I used the 2x2 with the max length of the opening and just scribed it after clamping it down. I then duplicated it 3 more times (which included the half pieces for the X) for for the same length. I then scribed two that would be cut up... found it easier to cut the mini X pieces in half for easier handling on the mitre saw. Jays version works well also.
D
I used Ana's plans, but switched things around a little as I went. I wanted something fancy for my bunny to hang in when I'm not home. The biggest modification I made for a bunny was the bottom. I wasn't happy with the stability of the chicken wire even though my bunny is just a few pounds. I used a more solid plastic called plaskolite ( you can find it in the lighting section of Lowes) We are planning on adding levels for the bunny as well as a cloroplast tray to fit the bottom since bunny poo can get stinky. We took about 2 weeks to complete this project and it was definitely a learning experience! We also tried to cut costs by getting some of the wook and backing from Habitat for Humanity!
We also made the little bed with the leftover wood from this project :-)
My husband and I built this credenza using Ana’s Barn Door microwave cabinet as inspiration. Thanks for all your awesome ideas and for sharing the plans!
This is a massive Farmhouse Table. It measures 126" x 56" with the extensions on, as show. It is 96" x 56" without. The table top is 2x12's with 2x8 breadboards and it has 4x4 legs and end stretchers. It was modified from the farmhouse plan here on ana-white.com and from tommyandellie.com.
In reply to Chairs! by brookifer86
Fri, 11/30/2012 - 14:09
We lucked out on those. A family member's church was giving them away a few years ago and we scooped them up for free. I will get their info so that you might search them out and reply again for you.
In reply to Extensions by rjdavidson
Mon, 05/27/2013 - 17:53
The extension idea came from tommieandellie.com. The extensions are each made up of 2 beadboards each cut to the width of the table, 56" here. They also consist of a 2"x2" crossmember of 30" here and 2-2"x2"s 38" in length and cut on a 45 angle on on end. The beadboards are joined by pocket holes. the crossmember is centered on the beadboard that will be closets to the table, it is here to provide support for the last 2 pieces. These last 2 pieces are pieces that will slide into notches cut in the end apron and inside apron. They are placed with the angled edge about an inch from edge of the what will become the most outside end when the extensions are slid into place. The extensions slide into notches cut 1.5"x1.5" end apron and inside apron pieces 30" apart and centered. A lot of words that I am sure didn't explain anything. Mine are just modification of the plans on the referenced site.