This is my first "finished" project. It is made of 3/4 inch maple, which I purchased from a big box store. I cut the top boards to 38 1/2 inches long and used seven boards (1x6's) for the top. Using the kreg pocket hole tool, some glue and 2 clamps - I was able to easily join the top. This process took several days because I only had 2 clamps and took my time joining 2 boards at one time. The outer edge of the table is mitred 1x2's so the top looks like it is 2 inches thick, but it is only 3/4 of an inch.
The legs are made of four of the 1x4's glued together and cut to 18 inches in length. The base (apron) is made of 1x4's cut to 30 1/2 inches long and attached to the legs using pocket holes / screws and glue - leaving a reveal edge. I also added two 1x2's in the middle of the base for added strength for the top. The top was pocket hole / screwed to the base.
The finish is Generals gel stain in Java colour - two coats. Then I added three coats of gel polyurethane.
Comments
jayheedan
Tue, 09/09/2014 - 09:46
60 degree cuts
MBuckson, nice job on the table, it looks great. A 60 degree cut is the same as a 30 degree cut, cut backwards. Because Miter saws work with a straight line (180 degrees) the middle postion is 0 (90 degrees) depending on which way you flip the board your are working with. So the 45 degree postions are half of the 90 degree (0 postion). If you want a sixty degree cut add fifteen degrees to the 45, which you would actually subtract the 15 to get 30 degrees since you are flipping the board and cutting it backwards. Or atleast that is how I understand it.
dbscott1
Wed, 09/24/2014 - 16:37
I used the 2x2 with the max
I used the 2x2 with the max length of the opening and just scribed it after clamping it down. I then duplicated it 3 more times (which included the half pieces for the X) for for the same length. I then scribed two that would be cut up... found it easier to cut the mini X pieces in half for easier handling on the mitre saw. Jays version works well also.
D