Very easy for my first project
![](/sites/default/files/coatspin.jpg)
entryway shelf plans
entryway shelf plans
This was an anniversary gift, so I wanted it to lean more "chic" than "shabby" and as a result I spent a little extra money. Instead of using different colors of stains, I used different kinds of hardwoods to provide the color contrast. I changed the dimensions to fit our space and my wife's requests. In the end I believe the dresser was 50" wide, 31" tall (not including legs) and 20" deep.
Carcase - The carase is made of 3/4" plywood and the the divider is held in place by a dado groove. I used a roundover bit to soften the edges. I then applied a vinyl spackle to the edges of the plywood so the paint would go on uniformly.
Drawers - The drawers were made with 1/2" plywood for the sides and 1/4" for the bottoms. Isntead of nailing the bottoms to the drawer sides, I routed a dado groove into the sides that holds the bottoms in place. I used full-extension ball-bearing drawer slides, which in hindsight may have been a mistake. Combining the the full-extension with weight of the hardwoods created a decent tipping hazard. As a result, I've needed to add wieght to the backside of the dresser for stability.
Feet - In lieu of casters, I bought some premade 6" legs from a local big box store for about $10-$15. I don't regret this purchase as they worked out very well.
Finish - The paint I used was super thick and covered great but was difficult to brush on with any consistency or finesse. It was like painting with pancake batter. I had impossible visions of being able to sand the finish down to an incredible flat surface but after redoing it twice, I settled for a brushed look.
A fun project to make ending with a functional product to boot! I went all out making sure that each truck/shelf would coordinate with each grandson's theme/decor in their bedrooms. Chase, who will turn one next month, has a super heroes/comics theme for his room. Therefore, I selected Captain America as the star of the big rig shelf. Red, white & blue paints, some wooden shapes and some creativity and Captain America was ready for Mr. Smiles.
I made two of these. One for each granddaughter at the time. (Since then I have another granddaughter and a grandson.) Made with solid oak everywhere except the top. I made the top with oak plywood for strength. I edged the lid with oak. These were the first projects I ever made where things had to fit tightly together and the beginning of my woodworking hobby.
Second project using completely reclaimed wood. The plans were easy to follow and I made a few minor modifications. I swapped out the two 2 X 4's inthe middle of the frame for 2 X 6's and added a center foot to each of them for center support. I had a hard time finding larger shims and was about to make my own when I grabbed a few pieces of scrap 1 X 3 and started to make the design you see on the footboard. My wife like the look so much that I repeated it on the headboard. Looking forward to making some nightstands that will match the look of the bed. The boards used to be nailed together as temporary fencing that is what created some of the color variation in the wood and I tried to create some sort of a pattern by alternating light and dark.
Thu, 10/16/2014 - 14:32
Wow, this is beautiful! I love the pattern you made with your reclaimed wood. What luck to have the varying shades. Great job!
Fri, 10/17/2014 - 05:37
This is really nice. I have to admit I was underwhelmed by the original plan when I saw it, but this is beautiful. Really nicely done.
I changed the plan to match the mattress and it looks great!
Project for corner of stair landing at my house. Made in an afternoon using poplar wood -- no finish, only water based matte finish polycrylic. No plan used, please let me know if you would like plan supplied.
This build is a gift for a friend who is retiring. It is made from scrap wood and left over finishes, so the only things I had to purchase were the moulding, hinges and “bling”.
Used Georgia’s Jewelry Box plan, with these mods: made it a little longer with no overhangs; added stop moulding trim around the top and bottom; added some lattice squares for “feet;” added a small sliding tray in aromatic cedar (1/4” cedar closet lining for the tray, stop moulding for the rails), and some self-adhesive rhinestone flourishes (found these at Michaels).
This would be an afternoon build. The finish took longer than the build - probably 2 or 3 hrs (filling, sanding, painting, and attaching the hinges and “bling”). It took me much longer to decide how to decorate it, than it did to actually build it ;)
Some squares of sticky-back felt were also added to the bottoms of the feet.
I’m very pleased to say that this gift was a big hit!
Fri, 10/31/2014 - 15:24
Thank you for the nice comment! :) I might build some more of these for Christmas gifts.
:)
More difficult build then I'm used too. Modified it to fit a full mattress but I think it turned out great! It's a lot cheaper to build than most Murphy beds to purchase out there on the market. Enjoyed these plans. Thank you Ana!
We loved the Modern Adirondack Chair pattern so much that we adapted it to have a matching love seat. It turned out beautifully!
Tue, 07/06/2021 - 17:08
Did you have to add any additional supports or just make the horizontal supports and seats/ backs longer?? Love this so much!
Tue, 08/31/2021 - 14:04
Yes, I added additional supports underneath. Two 2x4s going running along the 1x10s.
I really enjoyed making this plan. Only disappointment was the red stain finish I chose, live and learn.
The plans were helpful and accurate!!
Another thing I goofed up on and learned was on the 45's on the legs, I cut along the length instead of the width at first, wasted a 2x4 lol That was a good lesson to learn though. Shouldn't happen again any time soon...
This was my second Ana White project and we love the functionality of this piece. It hides all of our shoes and is the perfect place for little ones to sit while we put shoes on.
We wanted a round table that would seat a full Monopoly game. To do this we needed about a 5' diameter tabletop. The base was made consistent with the plans.
A few tips on the base:
If you want to make a round tabletop, here is what I did (there may be better methods). Keep in mind this was for a ~60" diameter table, I was assuming that the perimeter arc pieces would be about 4.5" wide and that I would cut the inner circle at a 50" diameter.
Fri, 12/19/2014 - 07:13
Simply beautiful. Very impressed with this table top.
Tue, 01/13/2015 - 10:05
Can we get some better details on the instructions for this?
In reply to Better instructions? by odeeodum
Sat, 02/07/2015 - 16:52
I updated the instructions. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Sun, 03/08/2015 - 10:23
Hi, your table is beautiful! I was wondering if you had to increase the size of your base since your table top is 60". I'm going to be building a round one the same size and wanted to make sure it would be stable at the current size.
In reply to did you increase the base size by ILoveDIYing
Fri, 03/13/2015 - 20:36
The only modification I made to the base was the to the lengths of the 2x4 pieces that make up the "X" that sits between the base and the tabletop. In the plans, this "X" is made of (1) 32" piece and (2) 14.5" pieces. I believe I increased these to 36" and 16.5", respectively. Truthfully, I don't think this modification added much value.
I did some calculations and at a 60" diameter, it would've taken over 100 lbs placed at the edge of the table. This was also a function of the weight of the table. The heavier the table, the more stable it will be.
Tue, 03/31/2015 - 07:30
On your boarder pieces what angle did you cut the ends to and how did you lay the pieces out to route the diameters?
Sun, 04/05/2015 - 19:21
I want to put a concrete top on this base and increase the diameter to 72". Would I need to increase the size of the base to accommodate the larger and heavier top? Thank you
In reply to Increased base size? by Momma Gladden
Tue, 04/14/2015 - 20:20
It all depends on how much your tabletop weighs. I'm going to take a wild guess that your tabletop will weigh around 500 lbs (~28 sq. ft. at ~18 lbs/sq. ft.). For reference, I think my wood top weighed about 80 lbs. I will also assume the wood base weighs 50 lbs. Using these assumptions, the result is a worst-case scenario (weight placed at edge of table, tipping between two table legs) of tipping at 300 lbs. The lighter the tabletop, the less stable it will be. Since your concrete table is likely to weigh a lot more than my wood top, it will be a lot more stable.
That addresses the design and assumes none of the wood or connections (screws) fail under the increased load (weight of concrete). I can't speak very confident to this aspect. Though I can venture a guess. I will guess that it will be stable under no load, but there will increased loads when under uneven stress (i.e. somebody leaning on one side of the table). Honestly, I don't know how valuable any further speculation would be.
Tue, 09/06/2016 - 08:14
Can the pedestal hold a 66"- 72" top? I've been searching for a table that seats 6 comfortably with an occasional squeeze for 8. I think a 60" would work but my husband thinks 72". We are struggling to find exactly what we want and are now investigating DIYs . This is a beautiful table!!
In reply to 72" version by X3cougsp
Wed, 10/05/2016 - 17:16
This is a conversation that we had in our house as well. My personal opinion is that 60" is big enough for 6 people and good enough for 8 people. What we did to "dry run" it was I cut a board to 72" and set it up at table height and we sat at oppposite ends of the board. I asked my wife if it was too big and we both agreed that not only would really shrink the room, but it also was too big for regular use. We currently have 6 chairs around this on a regular basis. As for the stability of the table itself, you may want to increase the width of the base. I say this because 74 lbs at the edge of the table (in between legs) will cause the table to tip, which is probably a force that will be exceeded by someone leaning on it.
In reply to curved piece how to cut them by jcatanz740
Sun, 12/25/2016 - 07:11
I've put a new pic up that shows my setup while cutting the perimeter pieces. What's not clear is that I screwed the pieces to my workbench from the bottom.
Thu, 12/22/2016 - 20:58
I used the jig that I made the large circle but made a couple new radii. The inner edge was the round piece radius minus half of the bit diameter. The other radius is as wide as you want to make it.
I fixed this jig to my work bench and set it up so that I would be cutting each piece identically. I have a picture that I'll add that shows it better than I can explain it.
Mon, 01/09/2017 - 07:36
On your boarder pieces what angle did you cut the ends to make them fit?
In reply to Boarder pieces by Omally83
Sat, 01/21/2017 - 07:46
I believe my approach was that I cut the 2x8s to the length that would produce the arc length I was looking for. So basically the outer edge was going to (if my jig did its job) be exactly as long as I needed it to be. With that in mind, I used a piece of yarn tied to the pivot point on the jig that I was using and used that to tell me where I needed to make the cut.
Otherwise, I could've used trig to figure it out but I was all angled out by that point. With 8 border pieces they should each cover 45 degrees (360/8) and the other two angles should be equal ((180 - 45))/2=67.5) resulting in a 67.5 degree angle. The trouble in using that method is it doesn't account for all the little screw-ups that may have thrown off certain measurements. Plus, the yarn-thing was pretty easy.
In reply to I love this is this by Mdenton728
Sat, 02/17/2018 - 08:34
Do you mean extend like adding a leaf?
Sat, 01/23/2021 - 14:17
We made the table base for a 60" solid walnut top (used the wider measurements). When people get up from the table, my husband thinks the base twists when they push off. Has anyone else noticed this or have a suggestion on how to make the table not twist? Thanks, Sue
This is our 20-year-old bathroom vanity, retrofitted to resemble the Napoleon Sink Console. This old cabinet is the standard builder size from the 90’s -- 30” wide x 29 ½” tall x 21” deep – fits a 31” x 22” sink top. The 2 outside drawers are working drawers, and the 2 inside are faux (just fronts). It was a weekend project. Since the sink stayed in place, I had to figure out something for the drawers to slide on. I had 3 sticks of ¾” x ¾” S4S in the garage, so I used these and fashioned a frame to hold the drawers, and also used it on the sides of the drawers as slides (figured the frame out as I went along). I used up some scrap 1x12 to cut the drawer faces and supports at the inside back of the cabinet. Since the space was so tight, I used some scrap 1x2 as bracing attached to the original frame, and attached the added face frame to that. The doors are ½” x 1 ½” craft board and ¼” birch plywood. The drawers are 3/8” x 3 ½” craft board with some ¼” plywood on the bottoms. I re-used the existing hinges and used some knobs from a multi-pack (available from Target) and some left over paint that was on hand. I bought about $30 of materials in addition to my scraps.
Now that I’ve got this one under my belt, it’ll be easier to do this in the other 2 bathrooms. I’ll probably use some 1x2’s instead of the s4s if I have to go out and buy the materials for the next one, it’ll just have slightly different measurements.
Ana White 4x4 truss table with matching bench.
My Father built this amazing dollhouse for my daughter as a Christmas present. I loved the tall open look of this design and knew it would be perfect for my four year old! Instead of leaving the doorways open, we added dollhouse windows and doors to make this "bookcase" more into an actual dollhouse. The adorable mice and furniture are from the Danish toy company, Maileg. We hid the dollhouse in the home office on Christmas morning and had my daughter find it as her last present. She fell in love with it and immediately started playing! She has one talented Grandpa and I am so glad to have something like this in our family to be cherished for generations.
Sun, 01/01/2017 - 09:53
I really like what you do, this job is beautiful, congratulations. Happy 2017
This is the most functional piece of furniture ever designed! I included a shelf on the shredder/recycle bin side to create a shoe cubby which, effectively, took care of the biggest clutter culprits in our entry.
Great idea for a quick project and it'll definitely make the grandkids happy.
Hand-made vegetable cupboard. Fun and easy project.
My wife and I built the 4x4 Truss Beam Table and 4x4 Truss Bench. We used Rustoleum Dark Walnut Stain and Satin Polyurethane. The only difference from the plans jointing the edges. We didn't like how simply screwing the 2x10s together left cracks due to the rounded edges. We ran the 2x10s (and 2x8s for the bench) through the jointer 3 times on each edge. This eliminated the cracks for a nice smooth table top finish. We distressed it with a hammer, screws and a file, then put one coat of stain and 3 coats of poly on it. We bough IKEA chairs. My wife reupholstered the smaller chairs and made the covers for the end chairs. Enjoy!
Tue, 03/03/2015 - 16:13
Thanks! We just used #2 yellow pine for the 4x4s, the 2x10s for the table top, and the 2x8s for the bench top. This is just the standard construction type material. The only place we could find non-pressure treated 4x4s in our local area was Lowes. Hope this helps!
This is my 2nd table built from plans on the site. I built the pocket hole farm table originally and our family used it for 2 years and then I sold it to another family to enjoy! I built this one a full foot longer and used a 2×10 in the center to widen it. We host large gatherings so I wanted the additional space. The dark walnut came out beautiful if darker than the plan table. We love it!
Sat, 08/28/2021 - 09:07
Thank you for sharing, it looks like a wonderful gathering place!