Community Brag Posts

Followed the plan perfectly. A little too perfectly, as the table turned out so well that I have To go back and rebuilt the iSideTables ;)

Same as the plan, used Kona stain, but I left it on for 2 coats.

I made this bed for my son and his girlfriend.

I used pallet wood and new pine for this.

I also added two metal strips to the headboard for decoration.

The headboard is connected to the siderails with 2 bolts straight through the side of each leg. The siderails are on the inside of the headboard.

The siderails are connected to the foot of the bed with 2 bolts straight through the foot into the end of the siderails. I added a third fake bolt to balance the look.

Built from Shanty2Chic Industrial Farmhouse Bench Plans

Pine and Main builder for the South Florida Area.

Piece of cake compared to building the table. Added hardware and stain, just have to put on the finish.

This is a loft style bunk bed. the original plan has the bottom mattress resting on the floor. instead of leaving the mattress on the floor we raised it up to the level of the bottom ladder. In the original plan the bed frame is only 48" high and we changed it to 58".

This was my first "major" furntiure project. I used the plans and modified for a 36" fireplace insert.  

Thrilled with how this turned out!!!  Thank you!

Play Deck and Swing

A couple of years ago I built the farmhouse dining table with matching bench, so when I showed my wife a picture of the Corona Coffee Table, she was all about it.  I lengthened the coffee table by about 6"-8" inches to fit our space better.  The entire table is yellow pine.  I used 2x6 for the top. Ordered the legs from Osborne, $30 each plus shipping (searched for other supplier to compare pricing, but had no luck finding that leg anywhere else).  For aprons I used 1x4.  Instead of plywood for the base I used 1x4 furring boards (the furring boards were only aprox. $1.50 each for 1"x4"x6', and they had rounded edges which helped add more texture when completed). For the middle and end pieces of the base I use 1x6.   Assembly was completed using wood glue and the Kreg Jig for pocket holes.  Top was stained using an old t-shirt with aprox. 5 coats of Early American stain,  2 coats of Jacobean, then 2 coats semi-gloss poly spray.  Base finished with 2 coats of Spa White by Amy Howard chalk paint (Annie Sloan competitor sold at Ace Hardware, seems to work the same, still costs around $30+ per quart).  At this point  my wife took over. She roughed up the base with my sander, applied the clear wax that protects the chalk paint, then she went back over the sanded edges with brown wax to complete the aging.     

So I bought this print, sized 16" x 20", from an independent photographer. My husband said I could get it only if I built the frame, so I was on the hook.
I used pine boards and glued and clamped the outside part since I don't have a nail gun. I sanded the really rought parts, but probably could've sanded more. Finished with Valspar's black spray paint and used mirror clips and 1" wood screws. Blue had glass pieces in 16" x 20" for less than $6. Hung with D rings and picture hanging wire.
Time estimate includes time for paint to dry and rigging up all the hanging hardware.

I used the Seaten Console Plan as the basis for this project.  I made the legs longer to raise the desk up to the height of a computer desk.  I also added extra sections to the top to proved extra storage areas for books, etc.

Thanks for the plans!  This dollhouse is great, my daughter loves it. I changed the plans slightly to make an 'open floor plan on the bottom and added a column in the front for support. 

I wanted a side table that was not too wide to fit under a window and the Tryde Console Table really fit the bill. I built it exactly to the plan dimensions but I altered the process a little.

1. First I built the leg assemblies including the side apron, top leg support, and the bottom stretcher. I used PH screws for the side apron and bottom stretch.
2. Then I attached the two leg assemblies together with the front and back aprons and the bottom stretcher.
3. Separately I constructed the top including the breadboards using PH screws. The tabletop boards are connected to the breadboards with eight PH screws each. The table boards are held together with PH screws.
4. Once the initial sanding and staining was completed I attached the top to the bottom assembly using eight screws through the tabletop supports from the bottom and then eight screws through the top into the top leg supports. Note I did not attach the breadboards directly to the legs as instructed as they are secured to the top with the PH screws. I can always add the screws later if necessary.

Instead of countersinking the screws to the top leg supports I used black (3 1/2 ") PH screws and let the screws remain visible on the top of the table. I think it looks nice and sort of industrial.
5. Then final staining, rubdowns, and touch-ups.

Note: I did not glue the top to the base just so repairs will be easy to make should over time the boards warp or crack. Just remove the eight top screws and lift the top off, make the fix, and screw it back on..

It took a couple of days but it is worthwhile spending the time for accurate measurements, squaring, and finishing. The results are first-class.

Thanks for the plans Ana!  I used a black cherry paint wash for the color, I wanted the wood grain to show.  I used 150 grit sandpaper to distress it, and then poly on top to protect it.  I also used a 2x6 on the bottom so I can use it as a shelf.  Sturdy and functional, looks fantastic on the front porch next to my yellow door!  In the winter I'll keep it at the foot of my bed.

Tried to post this under Old Man's pub table post, but couldn't load a photo in the comments section. This is a similar table, but a 2x6 shorter and breadboards are one ripped 2x6, not two 2x6s. Final dimensions were 43" high by 39"x36.5". Built the top with Kreg Jig and screws like most tables on the site. Base is 4x4s with 2x4 I-beams Kreg jigged into 4x4s.