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I made this in a few minutes. The kids were too excited to try it out; they didn't want me to fill and paint it. I made it out of scrap wood.

My first build using plans through this blog.  This project took me about four hours total and cost about 40$ with wood, paint, stain, and hardware.

I used modified plans from Thrifty and Chic. I have the same cushions size from Target that she has. It worked out beautifully. 

This is the new outdoor kitchen I had been working on - finally finished! It was inspired from the kitchen island plans - I like the slats, and thought they would work well outdoors for air flow and water drainage. I worked around the existing grill, and it is all modular, so it can be moved if necessary (such as painting or treating the deck). It includes cupboards underneath the bar, dorm fridge and sink with storage under the countertop. The cooler stand raises the cooler up to 'user' level (no more bending!). Because I'm an avid recycler - most of the products used were recycled items. All told (not including the already purchased grill) - this kitchen cost me a total of approximately $95.00 (I had a lot of the materials already). This project took me approximately 5 weeks working on it part-time after hours. I built one cabinet at a time, then the countertops.

This is my take on a few of these I have seen. It started out seeing the retail version of this table at a large furniture store with a $2k price tag on it. I really like the look of it so I decided to build one and searched for additional pictures and found these plans.

I used the plans as a guideline for overall dimensions for the table. I was using reclaimed oak fencing from an old Kentucky horse farm (who uses oak for fencing!!). This stock came in 5/4" x 6" x 7' boards so I had to get creative with the dimensions, etc. It was a mixture of red and white oak and this stuff was HARD!

The boards also came painted black with years and years of build-up and weathering. On a side note, if you ever work with reclaimed wood that has been painted or stained, please test it for lead. Lead based paint was banned around 1973 and you don't want to be planing or sanding on this stuff unless it is safe. Fortunately, I had this tested using a kit from the local big box. Most of my time was spent planing the boards down enough to show the oak but also leave some character as you will see in the pictures.

I like the look of knots and this wood had a few of them so i left the knots exposed on the support frame, however, on the top, I used a clear epoxy to fill the knots. This allowed the top to be smooth but you could still see the depth and character of the knot on the surface of the table. I did some mild distressing on the table top but nothing too dramatic as the wood really was cool. I also added the bolts near the tops of the legs and used threaded rod and turnbuckles for an industrial look.

The stain is a dark brown, almost ebony color. This went will with the black paint that was left in the saw marks after planing. I finished the table with 2 coats of satin polyurethane and and additional 3rd coat on the table top.

I have built furniture in the past but this has to be my favorite for both the history of the wood and the character.

Check out our new nursery! I used MDF sheets ripped to 5 1/2" and 3 1/4" to make the frame of the paneling. I attached the rails and the stiles with 1 1/4" PH screws and mounted them to the wall with liquid nails and 16 guage brads. I framed all of the panels with quarter round and finished off the top with 1x2" poplar rounded over with a router. Check out my link to my instrucables page for a complete step by step layout!

We couldn’t be happier with the outcome! This bed is beautiful and everyone who sees it is impressed. We did raise both the footboard and headboard so that both gave a bit more impressive appearance and so that the footboard rises above the mattress.

I started by searching Ana’s website for a vanity plan, and found a really great jumping off point with this plan. The problem was that it was for a single sink in cabinet size. But I was looking for something about five feet long that would incorporate a drawer and countertop area so my little miss will have lots of space for makeup and hair products and all those other girly things. I added a shelf to the cabinet, made the top 66" long and added a drawer and some spindle legs to give it the extra length it needed as well as a vanity area. I also incorporated Ana's genius idea to make the kickplate into a pull out step stool with drawer slides and some scraps. My blog post features the modified cut list as well as my step by step assembly for it. I love this vanity and am so proud to say I built it all by myself!

Bought only two 2x4s to complete this project. Ripped and chopped and milled like crazy to get it down to the dimensions of the plans. The pine is a little flimsy, I wouldn't recommend it unless you're on an extreme budget, but it CAN be done! Just know that any of the cross-bars that have a knot-hole will probably snap sooner than later. (Luckily I milled extras!)

Another cost tip is to skip the backing. I used two supports from the main material instead of any plywood. Watch out for wracking when doing the glue up and it'll be just fine. Fully supported with less weight too!

Rustic cooler made from pine

Whew! This was a challenge. Yes, it should have been easy - Ana's plans are really straight forward and seem easy enough to follow. I think I just have a hard time following directions! First, the table needed to be small, so I was going to have to tweak the plans anyway - why not make it just a bit different? Well, because then it's not so simple!
Almost finished with my first plan, the table boards started splitting. I had to make what I had work, so back to the drawing board, and the end result did turn out beautifully.
The chairs were a challenge because I really didn't want to use my husband's BIG circular saw. I bought a new cordless, lighter saw - and it wouldn't cut through the 2x4s. After butchering the first set of legs, I dampened my fears and pulled out the big saw. How silly I was - it was easy to use and cut right through those 2x4s with ease! Once I had the legs cut it was pretty simple to put the chairs together. I would suggest that you sand and finish all the pieces before you begin putting them together. And, attach the seat slats before attaching the seat to the back piece! I ended up adding an additional 2x2 across the seat so that I'd have something to nail the slats to (Thank you to my son for that idea!).
I had the table and 4 chairs sitting on the lawn waiting for my son to pick up, and had quite a few people stopping by to ask about them. I always tell everyone that I've found this wonderful site just full of beautiful furniture plans waiting to be built - thanks, Ana!

About three years ago I made my first project from Ana's plan for the Super Easy Little Tricky Ladder Table. It is the one on the right in the opening picture. That little step stool (that is what it is used for) has stood the test of my 175 lbs and the terrors of two grandkids dragging it around for all sorts of mischief. Since then I have made another version of that same stool but a little wider and shorter for more stability and I like the new proportions

I have also made one of Ana's Vintage Step Stools and that is the one with the kid standing on it in the bathroom. Perfect. The last picture shows my knock-off of a classic Shaker step stool except I hinged the top to add a small amount of storage under it. That is not me in the picture. Its a co-worker.

I encourage everyone to build these stools. My family has found them to be very very useful in the kitchen, in the bathroom, reaching high places in closets and I even use them to paint rooms. Easier than dragging a step ladder around.

My only caution is to use the best grade of pine or a stronger wood and to overdo the strength of the lower step connections. Do NOT build these out of furring strip wood. I did and it collapsed immediately. Not the joint but a leg below the lower step connection.

Started with the basic loft plans. Changed out the 2x4 post for some sturdy 4x4's and added a bottom bunk to build this set for my two boys. I also deviated from the plans by using carriage bolts to connect the landing for the steps and the side rails to those post so the bed can easily be disassembled and moved in the future. Finally I placed the steps themselves on a set of hinges so I could easily access the area underneath the landing if needed. This has the added bonus of allowing me to lock the steps in the up position to restrict access to the top bunk during visits with younger family and friends. Now just need to stain it, seal it, and put inside.

These chairs were super easy to make and so was the table. I did make a couple of changes if you'd like to read about it on my blog.
http://isteppedoutofmycomfortzone.blogspot.com/2011/01/i-love-to-build-…