Canned Good Storage Wall
We love our new can storage!
Shayla Shumaker
We love our new can storage!
Shayla Shumaker
After my wife commented how much our son enjoyed playing with a pretend kitchen during play group, I began thinking about building one of our own. Searching online I found all of the amazing work that had been posted here and drew inspiration from all of the examples already shared.
Yesterday was the grand unveiling and I'm happy to report it was well received. Our son had to be dragged away from it for his bath and bed after hours of opening and closing all of the door and restacking his dishes. Thanks to all of you for the great ideas and the confidence to build on my own!
PS: The Kreg jig is the greatest DIY invention of all time.
Mon, 03/19/2012 - 09:21
Man, this looks like a real kitchen! Love the stove and fridge!!!
Sat, 09/01/2012 - 16:05
The countertop and appliances were both done with just plain old Contact Paper. I found both at Lowe's. Good luck!
My primitive mitre plastic template didn't allow me to get a 60 degree angle so I went with the very simply upright thingies instead! The vinegar, wire wool and tea oxidisation worked a treat and was far easier to apply than stain.
U-shaped breakfast nook custom built for client.
For the bones - I just laid the 2x4's out like studs all the way around. Odd corner in back R, 106 degrees, made for some fun mitreing on molding and plywood.
For the decorative finish, used single-piece paneling, not the wainscoting sheet-panels, to give a fuller look.
My daughter desperately needed a new loft bed for her small bedroom as she became a teenager. After looking a long time, I finally decided to take the plunge and make something custom after we couldn’t find a bed that met her needs (she’s VERY tall for her age). Thank you for posting the loft bed and bookshelf plans to this site, as they were great to work from and customize! This is my first woodworking project of any kind, and it came out great with these plans.
We followed the Loft Bed and Loft Bed Bookshelf plans pretty closely, but we did make some changes as we went...
First, we tweaked the guard rail design to make it removable by adding back vertical posts. This way, the front and back posts slide over the front rail and it no longer needs to be screwed in place. This is a nice tight grip for safety, but it’s much easier to make the bed by removing the guard rail and dealing with the mattress. If you do this, just make sure the back vertical posts are shorter than the front ones to make room for the cleats and slats on the inside of the rail! This also means the top of the rail is made with a 1x3 instead of the 1x2 in the instructions.
We also decided to use a vertical ladder design rather than an angled ladder. We did this for space considerations in the room; it’s a bit harder to get up the ladder, but not that much. This also helped avoid any weird angle cuts with my basic tools. We also made the ladder about 3” wider than the one called for in the plans.
One of my favorite features was adding a 3/4” plywood “ceiling” above the desk. We did this by moving the long side cleats upward by 3/4” of an inch in the plans, and using pocket holes roughly every 10 inches around the perimeter of the plywood. We used this to hide the bottom of the mattress and all the bedding from view when sitting at the desk. It also provides for LED strip lighting above the desk, which is installed by routing out a pathway in the board and installing the lights within an aluminum channel for heat dissipation and to allow installation of a plastic diffuser over the lights. The wiring for the lights lives in the ~1.5” gap between the board and the slats thanks to the 1 x 2 cleats.
In the shelving, we made the upper shelf in the wide bookcase adjustable with the help of a Kreg shelf pin jig. We also ordered a 3/8” tempered glass shelf for this area to let more of the LED light strip we installed in the top of this shelf shine down as well. Again, this was installed in a routed-out pathway that holds an aluminum channel, and the wiring goes up through both the bookcase top and the plywood bed “ceiling” panel to join into the power. We got the strip lights, aluminum channel with diffusers, power supply, and controller from Amazon.
To get power to the LED lights, I routed out a channel for 5-conductor wire in the middle board of a rear leg assembly. Before gluing up the leg, I coated the wire with silicone spray to avoid the glue adhering to it so I could slide the wire around as needed. With a little bit of chiseling, this wire is able to come out of the slide-in joints for the upper and lower wide rails on the back of the bed. On the top, these wires go into a splitter and then to the two sets of LED light strips. On the bottom, the wires to into the LED controller which is mounted to a scrap board along with the power supply that stands on end in the 3/4” gap between the back side wall of the bookshelf and the bottom bed rail.
We created a custom-designed file drawer unit as the pedestal for the desk opposite the wide bookshelf. This was modeled roughly after Ikea Alex drawers with three narrow drawers and one file drawer. The carcass is about 14 1/2” wide by 21 3/4” deep by 29 1/4” tall and made of 3/4” plywood. The drawer boxes are approximately 12” wide by 20” long made of 1/2” plywood with 3/4” plywood fronts. We used full-extension soft-close drawer slides and positioned the cabinet so they have nearly full extension behind the ladder. Four wooden dowels are used on the top corners to align and secure this end of the desk surface.
Speaking of the desk, it is a piece of 3/4” plywood approximately 24” deep by 64” long. One end rests on the file drawer cabinet, and the other end is flush with the middle shelf of the bookcase and attached using two 6” by 5” 14-gauge galvanized T-straps usually used in framing applications. These are screwed upwards into the bottom of the desk and shelf from below, and are holding up quite well. This avoids the need for desk legs by the bookshelf.
We then adapted the techniques used for the wide bookshelf to build a narrow bookcase (79” tall, 14 1/2” wide) out of two more 10-foot long 1x12 boards. This bookcase sits between the end of the bed and the corner of the room to finish out the look and provide more storage. The top, middle, and bottom shelves are fixed and there are a total of four adjustable shelves (two in the top half, two in the bottom half). We also cut a door and installed it using a pair of full-overlay euro hinges. With these dimensions, the tall bookcase is also capable of working with 11” x 11” x 11” storage cubes just like the wide bookshelf.
The finishing touch was to create a shelf that attaches to the guard rail and provides a place for my daughter’s alarm clock to sit and be within easy reach. This shelf is made around a piece of the scrap 3/4” plywood that is approximately 21” long and 9” deep. I used leftover 1x3 pine that I glued and nailed to the outside perimeter of the plywood flush with the bottom to hide the layers in the plywood while providing walls around the shelf. I also glued and screwed another 1x3 piece to the front of the plywood, this time flush with the top, as the first piece of a U-shaped grip to slide over the top of the guard rail. Another 1x3 scrap was then positioned, glued, and brad nailed to this front piece to finish the grip. I then cut a triangular piece of wood from a 1x6 to provide additional support under the shelf against one of the vertical pieces of the guard rail. This piece is held in place with counter-sunk screws that go through the top of the plywood shelf down into E-Z Lok threaded inserts in the top of the triangular wood support. The whole shelf assembly is only attached to the guard rail so that I can still easily remove the rail to change bedding on the mattress.
The whole project is constructed out of Home Depot select pine boards and birch plywood. Throughout construction, I used a 3/16” round-over bit in a router to eliminate sharp corners pretty much everywhere on the bed itself (legs, rails, ladder, etc.). I didn’t use this on the bookshelves, the file drawers, or the desk. Edge banding was used to hide any exposed plywood edges. I used 200-grit sanding discs and an orbital sander to sand the various pieces during construction and before finishing. The entire thing is finished with two or three coats of Minwax Polycrylic water-based polyurethane, sanding between coats, which gives this a nice smooth finish and lets the richness of the wood grain come through.
Hopefully the pictures I’ve posted can help understand the write-up on modifications to the project. I enjoyed building this a lot, and my daughter really loves what this did to her room to make it much more usable! That was worth all the effort and time right there.
Ana, thanks a million for the plans!!
This was my first ever piece of furniture that I made and it was so much fun! I’ve got the furniture making bug now!
Melissa Pilcher
Wed, 08/02/2023 - 10:42
Thank you for sharing, so happy you went for it! Can't wait to see what you build next.
I wanted to make my girlfriend a gift for her birthday and came across this shelf. It turned out wonderful and I can't wait to make one for myself now!
I needed a dresser to match the two farmhouse sidetables I built for the room and this design fit the bill. I really had to take the time to figure out where to place the pocket holes. Finishing is my least favorite part of the process, but I'm glad to have really taken my time. This was a really challenging project and I'm so pleased with the end product. By far, my favorite build yet!
Built from the Wide Cabin Dresser w/ metal slides plans. I used soft-close ball bearing drawer slides instead of the European style ones suggested. The other departure from the plans: I liked the way the three separate boards in the open (bottom) row looked in the Pottery Barn model, hence used that instead of the flat board shown in the plans (and many of the other brag posts).
I don't know how people manage to get this done in a single digit number of hours. It took me a single digit number of hours just to get the drawers right and I would still say they're not 100% perfect. Having said this, I rated this project "intermediate" since I'm sure people with more wood-working experience than me (this was my first) would avoid some careless mistakes that I made and which required a few redo's here and there.
This is a beautiful console table built using the Narrow Console Table (Modern Farmhouse) plan. This is modified to be slightly wider, longer, and taller than the original plan. The dimensions are 68" long, 34" high, and 12.75" wide. The plan was very easy to follow and it was simple to adjust the measurements.
I used Varathane Dark Walnut Stain and once that was dry, I went over that lightly with Varathane Classic Gray stain. The final finish is Minwax Dark Wax and buffed.
More photos available on my facebook wood shop page at the link below.
Thu, 12/05/2019 - 12:06
Beautiful! I really like the finish you did on this table, thanks for sharing the details. I may need to try this myself.
Tue, 02/02/2021 - 19:09
Great color. I have never gone over color 1 with color 2 - I will now try it. Great look!
Tue, 02/02/2021 - 19:13
How do you wipe paint 2 over paint 1? Do you use a cotton cloth?
Stunning Waterfall Console Table Build by lipsticksandsawdust on Instagram
Sun, 09/10/2023 - 14:26
Is there a reason you could not use Plywood on this project? With hardwood 1x3?
In our basement we have an 8 inch oak ledge on the outside walls. I love the oak finished ledge, but it makes it hard to place furniture up against it. The furniture is either shorter or taller than the ledge and looks awkward. So, I built several storage pieces to fit our area and ledge. I modified a couple of different plans to create our toy storage area. It's so useful and looks great.
This was my first wood working project. I made this for my little sister for Christmas. It was a great starter project. I may be biased but I think it turned out pretty good.
Mon, 01/13/2014 - 07:31
Looks good! I especially like the black and white bedding. I'd do that for my own bedroom!
Used the design and got really ugly knotty and grainy wood to give it more character, as well as distressed it with a hammer and a 2' chain and hand planned/sanded. Stained Aqua Blue and sanded parts back to bare wood, then restrained with heavy spots and light spots of Wheatherd Gray and did 3 coats of Satin polyurethane.
I loved the plans for the cedar planter. It was a quick build and it's such a versatile item. I left the wood natural to give it a more rustic look. I'm planning to make a longer planter to use as a gift basket for Christmas gifts.
Beautiful Rustic Bed Build by Natalie Riley
One of the kitchen accessories is
a bottle rack. There are many kinds of bottle
rack depending on the type of bottle (oil or whiskey) and the use of it
(sliding, stable under the sink, in a single cabinet roundtrips etc).
The demands of my own
construction is on bottle rack wagon (ie kitchen pulled out of context), will
find below and next to the sink that will use the entire height of the cabinet
and will have bottles of oil that can be dirty and will therefore be wash.Finally it is two storey with
the second shelf can be moved in height. The dimensions are length
height 50cm. The materials we use are white
melamine 16mm aluminum angle, aluminum tubes and aluminum sheets to dress
racks.
Melamine White 16mm: 4pcs x
(25cm x 50cm)
Aluminum angles (15mmx15mm):
4pcs 4pcs x 50cm x 47cm and
Aluminum tubes 10mm: 2 pcs and
2 x 52cm x 54cm pieces
Aluminum Sheets: 2pcs x 32cm x 57cm
Cost of construction
Melamine
m
euros
Guide Ferrari50 cm 1pc x 9 = 9
euros
Aluminum angles
10
euros
Aluminium tube
11 euros
Aluminum Sheets 8 euros
Mounting rack 1
euros
Total: 45.75 euros
FIRST BUILD!! We've been using metal decorative plant stands as our nightstands, but they're just too wobbly on the carpet in our bedroom, and don't have any storage except the top of them, so when we saw the plans for the Mini Farmhouse Bedside Table, we knew it would be perfect. We don't have a lot of space next to the bed, so we went with the Mini plans, and built 2 of the nightstands, one for each side. We do a lot of projects, and I have refinished furniture for a few years, but we've never built anything from scratch. We have all the tools, so we decided to give it a try. This is our first build, and even though they're not perfect, I think they turned out nice, and we learned a lot that we will bring into future builds. We've already since built a Farmhouse Bench, and are getting lumber this weekend to build a dining table! Thanks to Ana's plans, there are endless possibilities!!
We used 3 pieces of 1x6 for a planked top instead of one large piece of wood, just because we had extra 1x6. Otherwise, we followed the plans pretty close to exact. We bought a Kreg Jig mini before starting on this project, and it's the BEST tool ever!! I want the more expensive kreg jig now, haha I love it!
This project cost me approx $160. I added a fire truck wallpaper border across the front and sides, finished the top in chalk board paint, and used torsion hinges from Rockler. Pricey but very nice for a lid. I also added plastic feet to the bottom and felt tabs where the lid touches the four legs. I like finishing details. It took me about a week to complete, mostly because of the time needed for the chalk board paint to set up. Loved the way it came out and hated to part with it! Ana's plans are always easy to follow and turn out great
I made this for my almost 2 year old niece for Christmas this year.
Built this Lazy Bench over the course of one weekend. Had to make some modifications to the way the arm rest / cup holder moves, but overall happy with how it turned out.
When I build this again - I gave this one away as a donation to our local Catholic Radio station - I'll make a bigger point to make sure that all four of the back supports are exactly the same, and that I pre-drill the carriage bolts that secure the cup holder before I start assembling.
UTtanker