Community Brag Posts

Play Structure & Swing Set

Submitted by Colby032 on Fri, 04/18/2014 - 11:52

My second building project... this one took quite a while, building in the evenings after the kids went to bed.

The playhouse is based off of Ana's Playhouse Building series, with some modifications to fit the space in my backyard and accommodate climbing wall, monkey bars, and slide.

To put the main deck structure into the ground for sturdiness while protecting from moisture, I dug out 5 holes to fit single hole cinder blocks (4 corners plus an extra 4x4 for the monkey bars; you can see an leftover block on the ground in one of the pictures). I placed some brick in the holes, then the cinder blocks on top. I then partially filled the cinder blocks with sand, put the pre-built deck in the cinder block holes (with help - it's heavy!), and then filled the rest of the cinder block holes with sand. It's worked remarkably well - the deck has been up for about a year now. I also sprayed some clear waterproof sealant on the bottom part of each beam near the ground for extra protection (deck, monkey bars, climbing walls, and swingset A-frame). This has allowed me to still run sprinklers near/around the playset and even grow grass underneath the swings!

Materials used:
* Playhouse: pine, plywood, Suntuf solar grey polycarbonate corrugated roofing panels (I live in Arizona, so little rain to worry about but lots of heat - the sheeting lets light in but blocks most of the UV rays, corrugated shape also provides venting at top when placed sideways)

* Deck/Swingset/Monkey bars: treated lumber, composite decking, pine for railings, monkey bars purchased from Amazon

* Climbing wall: pine, treated lumber, handholds/railing bought off ebay/Amazon

* Swings/slide/bongos/wheel, telescope: purchased from Amazon

Modifications:
* Turned playhouse 90 degrees to be in back of the deck, with swingset coming off the side. This meant the support beam for the swingset had to pass through the playhouse - modified the frame for that wall slightly and created a notch for the beam to pass through.

* Slide comes out one end of playhouse - made the "window" on that end larger than the plans called for in order to give room for the slide.

* Monkey bars come off one side of the deck - used extra 4x4 here to create support for the bars, and used extra bars to make a ladder on this side

* Climbing wall instead of ladder for main entrance

* Put large window in back wall of the playhouse

* Added cross bracing to side of decking on swingset end to make it more solid/cut down on sway when swinging

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Paint on playhouse, water seal on railings
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

yubbie2

Tue, 04/29/2014 - 20:41

This is phenomenal - just the plan & design we've been looking for. Can you upload a few more pictures? Any sketches you can provide? Shopping list? Really great job - I hope your kids love it. It looks awesome.

JeremyFox

Wed, 04/30/2014 - 04:53

Love it! I like the way it sits right next to a tree - I thought it was a tree house at first.

Colby032

Wed, 09/10/2014 - 14:03

Thanks! It's certainly nestled in right behind that tree - I originally was going to place it in between that tree and another one but then decided to just place it behind them in order to take better advantage of shade (critical in AZ) and fit in everything I wanted to put on it (monkey bars, swings, slide, climbing wall)

masons_momma2015

Mon, 07/08/2019 - 00:48

We've  been looking at these type of players for our son, and good grief! Prices are astronomical for playsets that are NOTHING like this. This absolutely an amazing  place for those boys to make memories. You're  amazing!  Do you mind if I ask what it cost once it was finished? I never imagined  that it would cause a tic in my eye to look at the kids from Lowe's or anywhere else for that matter.

Colby032

Tue, 08/20/2019 - 10:14

I don't remember how much it cost in the end... but probably around $900?  That may include getting some tools that I needed but didn't have at the time.  The slide was the most expensive single piece I bought - I think I got it from Amazon.

When it was all done, I remember thinking that what I got for my money was *way* beyond what I would have gotten by purchasing a kit or a pre-built play structure.  Plus, by going my own way, I was able to build it to fit my space and the needs/abilities of my kids.

While the whole thing is big and looks like an intimidating build, it really isn't bad - the platform is a fairly blank base to design everything else off of, and is incredibly sturdy.  Everything else is a discrete part that branches off of the platform and can be planned out as you need.  Adding the monkey bars required putting in a 5th upright (the first 4 are the corners), but that was an easy modification since I knew I wanted it before building the platform.  The playhouse just sat on top of the platform (screwed down, of course).

 

patelscope

Sat, 08/01/2020 - 20:40

Hello. This is pretty cool, probably the best modification that I am looking for from Ana's default plans. Could you please add some more detail on the right side wall, and how you incorporated the support beam through the playhouse? (with maybe a picture from inside of that wall). And secondly, if you can add the dimensions for the monkey bar setup on the left side of the deck? Thanks, much appreciated

Kentucky Fried Hilton Chicken Coop

Submitted by redtrek on Tue, 05/18/2021 - 23:12

I took the idea of the "small cedar shed" and decided to upsize it for a new chicken coop. Our old one was small enough that we had to let our six hens out to roam the yard. Chickens. Poop. Everywhere. I wanted one big enough to have them live in it. The nesting box is about 24 sf. The whole coop is 18' long, about 6-1/2' at the back with a 15° slope to the roof, and about 4' deep. I built the ladder up to their nesting box and made a mitre-cut panel under the nesting box for cleaning out, feeding, and watering. Total materials cost was about $1000, but a couple of local homebuilders helped by letting me scavenge the lumber for the nesting box from around houses that they were finished framing.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$1000-1200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Thompson's Clear Water Seal
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Outdoor Garbage Can Shed

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 12/08/2023 - 08:45

Chose the small firewood shed project as a "template" if you will .. built this to house our garbage cans and eventually put a gate on it to "help deter" the Florida black bears (we do multiple things to keep them at bay) but this will also just be a nicer looking way to keep the cans outside.

I modified the floor since the firewood shed had a floor that was suitable for, well, firewood but not so much for rolling garbage cans. Had to leave the one slat off the back for the depth of the can which I didn't completely account for in the beginning. Overall, still need to paint it and water seal it but happy with how it turned out.

Built from Plan(s)

Bench with soft-close drawers for Front Entry

Submitted by drickstan on Tue, 08/11/2020 - 10:43

We needed a bench to fill the space in our front entry and provide some storage for seasonal gear. We couldn't find anything to buy that would work for us, so when my wife found these plans, I had to try it! Couldn't be happier with the results. We widened the bench by a foot to 84" to fill the space. Basically, it just made each drawer 4" wider. Everything else was built to plan. The most expensive thing was the soft-close 24" drawer slides (~$100). As soon as you go above that 24" depth, they get pricier! It was also tricky to get the drawers to catch properly on the soft-close mechanisms, but I made sure to take the time to get it right before closing it all in. Now I just open and close the drawers for the pure satisfaction of it! I used premium pine plywood for the top and I find it still doesn't give that smooth finish I like, even after sanding. I think I'll create a new top out of joined knotty pine planks later and just attach it to the top.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$300 CAD
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Primer and pearl finish paint.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Designer Shoe Shelves on a Budget

When we first bought our house, one of the things that appealed to me was the walk in closet off the upstairs foyer. A walk in closet in a house from the 20′s? That’s unheard of! I know I could have designed this in a way that fit more, but I switch out my shoes seasonally, and I personally wanted slanted shelves. Come on, they’re so much prettier! Shopping List 1 – sheet of 1/2″ plywood (4 x 8′ sheet) 2- Primed 1×2′s @ 8′ 1 – 1/2″ Square Wood Dowel (like this) 2- Chair Rail @ 8′ (like this) Kilz Paint Primer Behr Semi Gloss White Paint Indoor Caulk Wood Putty 2″ Screws 2″ Nails Cuts Plywood- 5 pieces at 23″ wide and 12″ deep. Cut either of the 23″ end at a 45 degree angle. Plywood- 1 piece at 23″ wide and 12″ deep 1×2′s- 10 pieces at 12″ with ends cut at 45 degree angle. Then measure 1″ down from the top of the front piece, and cut it straight across. 1×2′s- 2 pieces at 12″ 1×2′s- 1 piece at 21.5″ Wooden Square Dowel- 3pcs at 23″ Chair Rail- 6 pieces at 23″ How To Build 1. I first figured out how far apart I wanted my shelves to be. I don’t have particularly tall shoes, so I had the first shelf 17″ off the ground in the front, and then they were set approximately 12″ apart after that. I located the studs, and screwed in the 1×2′s on the walls directly into the studs. 2. I then added the wooden dowels to the tops of 3 of the shelves. I didn’t even nail these down, just used wood glue and caulk. I set the wooden dowel 2.5″ from the back of the shelf. 3. After that I dry fit the actual shelf on top of the 1×2′s. This was probably the hardest part because of course this house doesn’t have even walls. Why would anyone ever need even walls? What a silly concept. I ended up having to sand a lot of the edges to make them fit. Caulking will help fill in those gaps! I then nailed in the shelves to the 1×2′s from above. 4. I slowly worked my way up the wall. When I got to the top shelf, I knew that I wanted a flat shelf to store boxes of shoes. I also added an extra 1×2″ to the back wall just in case I really decided to stack those shoes high. I followed the same process as I did for other 1×2′s, and screwed this into the stud. Closet 1x2 All Shelves 5. Then I used the chair rail and aligned it at the bottom of the 1×2″ and nailed it to the front of the shelf. It sticks up higher than the front of the shelf, which is great for catching shoes that tend to slip down. 6. After this I, I ended up using wood putty and caulk to fill any gaps. They work miracles on wood. 7. Finally I just painted everything and viola! Budget 1 – sheet of 1/2″ plywood (4 x 8′ sheet) – $28.97 2- Primed 1×2′s @ 8′- $5.98 1 – 1/2″ Square Wood Dowel - $1.75 Chair Rail - $16.00 Kilz Paint Primer- already owned Behr Semi Gloss White Paint- already owned Indoor Caulk- already owned Wood Putty- already owned Screws- already owned Nails- already owned TOTAL: $52.70

Estimated Cost
$50.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White Semi Gloss Behr Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

DIY Sofa - Storage Sectional

Submitted by LittleG on Thu, 08/09/2012 - 15:38

Basically I took Ana's plan and tweaked it to create a diy sofa, a love seat, and a corner piece to make a sectional. All 3 pieces have the same basic design and function (they all have a storage compartment), although the corner piece, because of its placement and the thickness of the seating cushions, doesn't open unless the couch is opened first. We purchased custom cut, 6" thick foam cushions for the seats (we bought the XL-38 foam from https://www.buyfoam.com/, but if we had to do it again, we'd go with the XL-28 as the 38 is VERY firm). We also used upholstery fabric instead of a paint drop-cloth to cover the couches. The foam and upholstery fabric upped the overall cost significantly. Other changes from Ana's plan, I used 15/32" OSB because the 1/4" plywood just felt too flimsy (I'm a large guy). I also added I bolts to the underside of the seat before the foam and upholstery so I could add a stress relief rope to prevent the kids from opening the top and dropping it and ripping out the hinges. I used piano hinges as they seemed to me to provide the most support. Finally, I ended up using 1x2s for the base trim since I couldn't find any 2x2s that were straight and finish-ready, then I added router detailing to provide some visual interest. I used 3" pieces of 4x6 for the feet and added matching router detail. Additionally, I used T-Nuts and bolts to make the feet and base trim completely removable.

 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$1300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax PolyShades Espresso
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

masmith38

Fri, 10/23/2015 - 11:11

Love this!  Totally want to think hard about doing this instead of buying when time for a new couch comes. Job well done, and the storage is a total plus.  

Chased

Sun, 05/15/2016 - 21:15

Where can I find the plans to this or the cut list

mikeyb

Mon, 10/03/2016 - 18:11

Awsome job!!! question? is that a typo on the cost to build??

mikeyb

Mon, 10/03/2016 - 18:12

Awsome job!!! question? is that a typo on the cost to build??

albertmick30

Mon, 08/17/2020 - 07:46

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Murphy bed

Submitted by bpcooper14 on Wed, 05/08/2019 - 06:09

So I've always wanted to build a Murphy bed.  And by always I mean since I first came across plans here that made it look so simple.  It ended up taking me a while to do because my job has me working 6 days a week so I was only able to work on it for short chunks of time.

I ended up utilizing a few different plans and mashed them together to build a full size murphy bed.  The shelves are the support legs when the bed is down.  The "hinge" mechanism are heavy duty 360 degree seat swivels.

All-in-all it turned out WAY better than I expected with only some minor issues throughout the construction process.  

Next up is a twin xl Murphy bed with a murphy desk attachment that will serve as a craft  table when up.

Estimated Cost
3 - 4x8 sheets of 3/4" plywood ($25 each)
3 - 1x2x8 to wrap the frame ($2-3 each)
1 pack Door Hinge pins to serve as the pins to hold the bed upright ($3-5)
1 pint stain
1 pint shellac
2 - Heavy Duty 360 degree seat swivels ($20)
Screws/nails/etc.

All told, this project probably cost around $200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

modern outdoor lounge chair

Just finished this beauty, entirely made with 2x4, plans were modify to match our outdoor sofa and coffee table. I think our best looking project so far ;) Thank you for inspiring me to build !!!

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Outdoor Sectional

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 04/04/2016 - 06:29

I modified the plans slightly, reducing the overall seating depth by 1.5" so I could use 8' lumber with minimal waste, and make 2 cushions out of one 54" width of fabric. I also tweaked the design to make a chaise lounge on one side. I used bargain priced sunbrella fabric (has a few imperfections) and recycled soda bottle fill for the cushions to keep cost lower. Building the wooden part was quick and easy (took an afternoon including two trips to the store), but this was my first sewing project so the total project time reflects my learning curve making and stuffing cushions.

Estimated Cost
Just under $300 total.

The lumber cost was less than $100. It was my first sewing project, so I was surprised that the cushion stuffing was the most expensive element of the whole project. If you can find cheap pillows, the plans are easily modified to fit their dimensions.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
behr weatherproofing solid color, slate.

A narrow roller was a life saver in getting between all of the boards on the seat.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

marylowry

Wed, 04/06/2016 - 06:34

This looks really great! You have inspired me to stop procrastinating and get started on our outdoor sectional. Every time I think about doing it the building part seems fun but, I'm overwhelmed by the task/cost of the cushions. I'm interested in learning more about the fill you used. Where did you find it and what was the approximate cost? Thanks and great work!

sheinerbock

Wed, 04/06/2016 - 11:02

This came out amazing!! I just finished my very first project using plans on here and have the bug to keep building more!!! An outdoor sectional is next on my list!! Great job it looks fantastic.

Gregbpsu

Wed, 06/29/2016 - 20:25

Whoops - sorry about that. This looks amazing, and the detail on the fabric is quite fantastic. I have been wanting to replace some old furniture that is falling apart, and this would really be a wonderful addition to the outdoor space. Kudos on the great work. 

The Gíaffe TV Stand

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 02/06/2020 - 09:55

The Gíaffe Free Standing TV Mount. Handcrafted and engineered to use its center mass to deliver strength and balance for tv sizes 30-60". Display your television without detracting from your home's decor. The Gíaffe Free Standing TV Mount is the perfect solution and its rich finish will be perfect for any house/office room.

Estimated Cost
$109
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Stain - Dark Walnut - Varathane - 2 Coats
Finish - Water Based Polyurethane - Varathane - 3 Coats
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Farmhouse X Desk

Submitted by Jeremysj on Thu, 10/15/2020 - 10:59

I built the Farmhouse X Desk with full extension drawers instead of shelves.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$125
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White cabinet & furniture paint and dark walnut stain for the top. Finished the top with several coats of Minwax polycrylic.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Garage Shelves + Work Bench

I used Ana’s plans for the garage shelves, but modified them to include a work bench. A lot of you tubers have done this, built a combination work bench and shelving, but I built nearly everything according to Ana’s plans. 12 feet long, 24 inches deep. I got some LED lights (two 1600 lumen strip lights) from menards that really brighten up my entire garage and make the work bench more useful. The one thing I really wanted was to not have a supporting pillar on the work bench to keep it open, and I loved how it turned out. I went for 3/4 plywood, mostly to have a stronger work surface, and I’m glad I did. I have since added a supporting 2x6 off of the study to support the top shelf above the bench and its strong enough to do pull-ups off of, and I have reinforced the support leg under the bench with a cross bar. Thanks for the great plans!!

Estimated Cost
~$200 (lumber prices have gone up recently due to supply issues with covid)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Mudroom Bench with Easy Drawers

Submitted by GeekAthair on Mon, 01/06/2020 - 20:12

We've been desperate for more storage in our little house and this build really helped. The whole bench is 103“ wide and each drawer gives us 24"x17" of usable space. We had to do some custom shaping for the benchtop (two joined fir 2x12's) fit as the walls are not square but in the end we were really pleased.

The hardest part of the project was getting all of this built and in place while working around a busy family as this is our only meal space and the majority of cutting/forming was done either on the weekends or after bedtimes. If I were to do this again I'd prioritize sending the kids to grandparents for the weekend and know king everything except for paint out in one go. 

We could have spent less time with the benchtop by using plywood like in the plans but we wanted the look of a separate benchtop. We may replace the fir with stained oak down the line but this should be plenty sturdy for the next several years. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Valspar paint, minwax clear poly
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Classic Bunk Beds Re-Imagined With Stairs

Submitted by edeboode on Mon, 04/03/2017 - 07:57

I modified the plans for the Classic Bunk beds by making them 74" tall instead of 63" and added a fourth slat all the way around to add more protection from potential falls.  I created one opening in the front for my youngest to get into the bottom bunk, and built slats about 2/3's across the front to act as a gaurd rail. I created another opening on the side for my oldest to get into the top bunk with stairs instead of ladders to again prevent falls.  I had to modify the Sweet Pea stairs to accomodate for the extra height in the bunk beds, simplified the railings, and I created each cubby to be big enough to use cloth storage totes that were 11x11x11.  Sanded the whole bed and stairs so the corners and edges were all rounded and smooth, and put two coats of white Deck and Porch paint to stand up to the the boys running up and down.  I used brackets to secure the stairs to the bed, and sixteen 3" bolts to bind the bed together.  Precut and drilled 17 slats for each bed seperated them 2" apart.  Spent a few hours every night during the week measuring, cutting, glueing, drilling and assembling the bed and stairs.  Spent an entire weekend sanding and painting.  Very happy with the way these beds turned out.  Overall cost of the project including the paint was around $400.  

Estimated Cost
$400
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Porch and Deck Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Dog Crate with a twist...

Submitted by AlexO on Mon, 05/08/2017 - 19:08

I really liked the Large Wooden Dog crate but wanted the sides to be lower and wanted to make sure there was no easy chew escape.  Not sure if you can see from the photo but the cats have taken over... Will need to make a larger one for the dog!

I followed the plan pretty much other than lowering the panel on the side and replacing the wooden bars with rebar.  The rebar was a bit of a learning curve getting the holes lined up perfectly but I figured it out and I think it came out pretty good!

Used all pine 1x3 and 1x2s.  Picked up a pine panel for the top and the bottom is a 3/4 plywood. Made our own chalk paint for the finish and sealed it with wax.

Oh, forgot, added tongue and groove pine for the back and finished it and the top with Antiguing wax.

Lots of fun and I think I will make a double one next!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
Around $100 if you don't count all the practice pieces for the rebar!
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Chalk paint and antiquing wax
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Mostly Cedar Vanity for the New House

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 05/04/2023 - 09:49

After looking at some terribly overpriced particle board vanities, I found the lovely Rustic Farmhouse Double Bath Vanity plans and decided to go for it. I think this vanity turned out much better than anything I could have bought with the same amount of money, and it will last much longer too!! Thanks Ana!!

Comments

Bathroom Vanities

Submitted by kdins31 on Sat, 01/04/2014 - 13:09

Rather than burning a few thousand on vanities for my bathroom remodel I decided to build them instead. The bottom shelf on the right slides out for a footstool so the kids can reach the sink.

Estimated Cost
Wood was cheap, the granite and sink were not, though I was able to save by getting remnant slab from granite shop.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Joni

Sun, 01/05/2014 - 20:55

These are so beautiful -- they really look like high-end rustic pieces. The slide-out footstool is genius. The distressing is fantastic. I really love your pebble art as well.
Would you mind sharing the stain color?

Tack Box

Submitted by Evandgc on Tue, 12/30/2014 - 16:21

I made this box for my wifes christmas present. She has been riding horses for sometime and is planning on doing some shows. I built this box from Mimi's storage bench design, made it bigger, added a deeper box top and created the rest from looking at pictures online. Its all made of pine plywood and pine boards to keep it light. I added 4 castors to the bottom to make it easily moveable and hid them with the moulding around the bottom. Still has to be sanded and stained before it hits the barn. Its 39W X 24D X 29H. I used a piano hinge and routered the back to set the hing in. Added cove moulding around the bottom and to all the boxes around the front and side. Used a lot of pocket holes and finsh nails. Took me longer than it could have, because I planned everything as I went.  I will add more pictures when its finsihed. I would rate it intermediate to advanced depending on your skills with certain tools. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
Will all the hardware, wood materials, screws etc, I think it cost me around $250-$300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
not finished yet
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Shoe Dresser with Extras!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 04/24/2022 - 11:30

We added a bit to your shoe dresser plan. We ended up building into the wall since it had the perfect little indent and put a baby cabinet in the middle so we had access to the outlet. 

by Angela

Built from Plan(s)