Community Brag Posts

Loved making this. I added a top rail for a shelf.

R Chase

This project was simple as long as you follow directions. I had some problems with the finish but in the end it all worked out!

This is the first project my husband and I tackled since we were in middle school, (when you built things like clocks and puzzles). We had virtually no tools, a limited workspace, and a compact car to transport lumber in. Believe me when I say - if we can do this, anyone can!!!! 

We bought a circular saw and sander, and had a power drill on hand. We were working on a very tight budget, so we bought a Kreg Jig mini instead of a full  sized jig. I also borrowed a few hand clamps from our parents. I thought the Kreg Jig mini would be a MASSIVE pain, but it actually worked really well (as long as you have hand clamps).

We used regular SPF lumber for the planks and aprons and cedar posts for the legs, all purchased at HD. Best advice - take your time looking for boards that aren't warped. Even in the end, we had a couple of imperfect boards, but it didn't inhibit our construction at all like some previous posters experienced. We did all the cuts at home EXCEPT the cedar posts (We got the people at HD to do this for us. They did it for free).

The build was straight forward. We had to do a few modifications (as our table is just over 5ft in length), but if anything I think the smaller size made things easier. We measured twice and cut once. As long as you take your time, it's easy. We even modified the plans so we can add an extension leaf should we need more room in the future.

We sanded every inch of the table. No joke - this step played a HUGE roll in making our table look and feel good. Some of the planks on the table top were a little uneven, so at the last minute we invested in a cheap hand planer - it still isn't perfect, but it definitely helped a lot.

To finish, we used Wood Conditioner. I'm glad we did. I've stained other things in the house without it, but the wood conditioner definitely gives the finish a richer, more professional look. We used Minwax dark walnut, and we topped it off with Waterbased poly (just what we already had hand). 

For our first project, we are very satisfied. It took us about 3 days (off and on). We will be making a bench for our table soon. I look forward to doing more projects in the future! Thank you :)

Quick and easy closet to add anywhere.

I've never thought that I could build any piece of furniture.. then I found a blog called Shanty-2-Chic and it was two sisters who built any piece of furniture you could think of from Ana White's project plans. So this is my first brag and I'm soo thrilled at how they turned out. Of course it didn't run smoothly the entire time.. I had some bumps along the way (that meaning I had to rebuild a chair like twice to get it right). I really don't know much about different type of work tools and all the different size wood and nails... but I did it and I can't wait for my next project!!

I didn't list the time it took because I did a little here and there.. it took me a month or so to complete! I also didn't have a lot of the tools, so price would include cost of wood and tools. I also would like to mention I used the Kreg Jig to build and I love it and would totally recommend it!

We needed a new patio table for our deck and I loved this design. I made it out of cedar which worked beautifully and made a few small tweaks:

- Needed it longer and wider so added two more 2x4's to the middle and added 2x6 end caps (as another poster had done).
- I did not add the holes to the cooler covers for uniformity, they slide in and out very easily.
- I used 4x4's as the legs and constructed the table skirting around it. This is a very sturdy design.

Built some benches for seating and they worked out great.

Overall I loved this build and it was fairly simple. Stained with Penofin deck stain (red label) and a spar varnish for protection.

Hope you like it!

One of two rustic x end tables built for our living room! We also built the coffee table to go with it. All together the wood for the two end tables cost about 65 dollars but that doesn't include stair, jig screws, finishing nails for the x's, hardware, and the black spray paint for the hardware. We used a lot of the same stuff however for the coffee table so it wasn't too bad! they came out great!

I built 4 planter stands, for Christmas. I finished the planter with a monlding on top.
 

From free Cummings workshop.

I got a request to build a taller version of the Tommy Bookcase. The only changes I made to the plans were switching the sides to 60" tall and adding two additional 40" shelves. To save on the cost of buying several 1x12's, I used a sheet of PureBond birch plywood. I didn't want to mess with the Kreg plugs or seeing the holes, so I countersunk screws into the sides and used 3/8" plugs to hide them. For the bottom, I trimmed down a 1x4 to the right width then added 1/2" moulding to the top of it. At the last minute she decided to add beadboard, and I found two quarter sheets at Lowe's on clearance for less than $8. I finished all the rough edges with edge banding. I really like how it turned out! It's a very solid, sturdy bookcase, and for $80 it's a fraction of the cost of the half sized PB one!

This was a super easy and fun bench to make.

I ended up having enough 2x4 and 1x4 scraps for the legs and only had to pick up a a couple of 2x4s.

TIP: Others pointed said that you should paint slats before assembly... I highly recommend it as well. It was a bit of a pain trying to get between the slats to prime and paint though would likely be easier w/ a sprayer..

Finished it with some oops paint in a nice color and a 3 coats of spray urethane.

Great beginner project for sure. It may take a couple of days to finish but most of that time is spent waiting for paint/urethane to dry between coats :)

This was a great / simple plan that mostly fitted my needs. i made a few modifications;

1.  wider 'human' well - extended the width by 6"

2.  Deeper desktop - Extended to 24"

3.  2.5x.75" trim piece around table top - simple MDF 

4.  plywood on top of 2x2 frames - for all shelves and table top.

(the dimensional modifications required 2 additional 2x2 @8')

I like a larger leg well to shift around in on those long days, so i extended the width by 6" all applied to the foot well.  I was still able to use only 1 8x4 piece of .75" sanded plywood.   I use 2 computers and a second monitor on one, so I deepened the desktop from 18 to 24" to accomidate my technology.  This then required an adjustment to all 15" 2x2s used on the sides, and the shelve stretchers. I prefered to use a Plywood on top of frame method for all shelves and tabletop, for stregnth and asthetics. This required me to make a notch into all 4 corners of each shelf. To accomplish, be sure to start with a squared piece of plywood cut to dimensions, and measure the from the insides of the cutouts for precise fit.  The under shelf frames were still affixed with pocket hole screws, the tops of each were screwed to the frame with 2" wood screws (pre drilled) and smoothed over with wood filler.  the top received the same, 2x2 frame around the perimiter, along with two additional 21" supports (at the same location as the inner legs from the towers). The top was the affixed with 2" wood screws, and smoothed with wood filler.  

For asthetic purposes, I put in a 2.5x.75" trim piece around the top (to hide the frame/plywood seam) This actually worked out great!!  It is mounted flush with the plywood top , 2" wood screws about every 12 inches and a healthy amount of wood glue. (be careful, these come pre-faced with a layer of white.. something.. this does not make a good glueing surface.  Sand down before glueing to the tabletop.).  Screws were countersunk, add wood filler to smooth.  the best part of the trim is that it extendes .25" below the wood frame (1.5" frame, with   .75" plywood on top = 2.25" total thickness). this allows allowed me to not screw the towers into the top.  The legs fit in underneath the top, butted to the top's frame, and the recess created by the trim holds them in place! This will make for super simple moving should I need to relocate my desk; just lift off the top, and it's in 3 pieces!!   this step adds a bit of work and $ (really not too much, 3 2.5"x.75" MDF trim pieces adds an additionan $12, and mounting only took an additional 20 minutes.)

I finished with a two tone top quality paint job, two coats of primer, 2 coats of paint, 2 coats of Polyurathane (3 on the tabletop).

All in all, it worked fantastically!!! it is incredibally sturdy.  The plans are simple to follow, and easy to modify, just do the math, and draw it out..

Thank You Ana!

-MikeG.

(ps. the white one is Winnie, the Brown is Henry).

The only thing I did different was I pocket hole screwed each slat together before attaching the top and bottom trim. Took a little bit longer but that's just the way I did it. Not sure if it made it easier or sturdier or just took more time.

First of all , a big Thank you to Ana for her website and plans. This has become our favorite site since we discovered it a few weeks ago.It took us about a week to build this sideboard.

We had to modify the plans a little bit. We reduced the length from 84 inches to 60. It made us change all the sections, drawers etc. The width and height of the sideboard were kept the same as the plan.

One good thing we did was to cut the pieces on a miter saw. I guess this is the most important part of the project(after cutting them to correct dimensions). If your pieces are cut square and accurate, half of the battle is won. During assembly, we focused on keeping the joints square (Thanks to many brag posts mentioning its importance.). After that it kept building on little by little. Every evening we would advance a little.

The drawers and the doors were made as per the dimension and fit OK. We got stuck on the hinge installation. We did not know how and did not want to cut mortises etc. After about an hour of browsing the web and videos we discovered non-mortise hinges and that hurdles was crossed also.

We used pine for 1x2, 1x4, 2x4,and 2x6s. for bases and shelves , we used 3/4" plywood as given in the plan. for door paneling and the back of the sideboard we used 1/4 plywood.

We used minwax prestain and minwax oil based Red Mahogany stain. We had to apply three coats of the stain to bring somewhat uniformity across the whole sideboard. For topcoat, we used oil based polyurethane.

Final thoughts: Do your homework well. Go though your plans to build a correct mental image. You will build a beautiful piece of furniture which will be better than your imagination and hold a different meaning. Cant wait to build another beautiful piece.

I basically followed Ana's plans that she laid out in her origanal post minus moving the ladder over to the other side.  The kids loved it since we surprised them while they were out of town with the grandparents.  In about 2 years I'll be building another set for the younger 2 girls!