Community Brag Posts

(again, I don't know why the image is showing up in the wrong direction)... While redoing my son's room, he needed a new dresser. His room is very small and we new we needed to be able to put it inside the closet. We couldn't find dressers that would fit the correct dimensions, but didn't think we had the ability (yet) to make a quality dresser for him. My kids don't like using dressers correctly anyway, so we thought this might be a great solution for him. Right now he is using the bottom area as a place for his shoes and small boxes for his underwear and socks. (We had thought about making one of the spaces into a shelf, but ended up not doing it, so I hadn't bought enough baskets).

I loved the original design but wanted to learn new skills and use hardwood.

I used a combination of pocket holes, biscuits to align the plates and the frames, and figure 8 fasteners to attach the top.

At a VERY low pace (~1-2 hours every day), and many mistakes, it took me about two months to complete this project. If I had to do it again, it would probably take me two-three weeks at the same pace.

Overall, I learned a lot and am very pleased with the final results.

This was my first building project! The bed is built almost entirely out of found wood. I modified the Hailey Platform Bed plans to suit the dimensions of the wood I had, and my very small work space.

I did most of the building in my living room and my apartment's miniature courtyard, which is much narrower than a bed. Because of this, the bed had to be able to be disassembled until after it was stained. The modified plans use brackets on the corners - even these were found! Most of the wood came from discarded pieces of other beds, found in the yearly big garbage collection. The centre support strut can also be disassembled, and is attached with a joist bracket.

I think the actual assembly and finishing of the bed could be done in a day, even for a beginner like me, but I spent many hours sanding the old finishes off of my found wood so I would have a uniform finish.

This was a rack I helped my dad make so he could give it as a wedding gift. This is an attempt to build from plans that Ana posted here:

http://ana-white.com/2011/11/wall-mounted-wine-rack-dont-forget-erase-y…

We took 2 long long cherry boards with bark still on the sides, and ran them through the planer. Then we ripped them down the center to be able to use bark ends on each side and book-matched the cherry colors, but most people wont have to worry about that since they wont be using "found" cherry.

The back board is made up of four 1x7s cuts at 28.5 inches long. You can use whatever width you want, we just wound up with 7inch pieces. Then we used a Kreg Jig to screw those together flush (see picture of back). Once those 4 pieces were together we sanded the edges down to make the backboard smooth and flush.

The 8 mini shelves were 1x3.5s cut at 10 inches long. The middle and bottom shelves were 1x5s cut at 24.75 inches long. Again, we were using limited wood and had to adjust our measurements to make it work.

We spaced the bottom shelf flush with the bottom of the backboard and then would space 4.5 inches between the top of that and the bottom of the next shelf. Make sure there is still room for your wine bottle to fit between the floating shelves. ALSO, MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE FLOATING SHELVES ACROSS FROM EACH OTHER LEVEL WITH ONE ANOTHER. You don't want your shelves to look lazily placed.

The way we placed the shelves on backboard was...involved.
- Clamp the shelves in place on the front of the board and trace them with pencil.
- Remove the shelves.
- Marke holes to drill within center of the trace.
- Drill those holes from the front of the board to the back.
- Reclamp the shelves back on and use the holes in the board to mark the clamped on shelves from the back.
- Unclamp the shelves and fully drill the shelves by themselves while they were not attached. (BE CAREFUL TO DRILL STRAIGHT and never come through the top or bottom of the shelf)
- Sand off your pencil marks after your drilling.
- Re-clamp the shelves to the backboard.
- Use 3" screws straight from the back into the shelves.
- Use 8 screws per big shelf and 3 screws per little shelf.

Then it was just slow and steadily clamping, tracing, drilling, re-clamping, drilling, sanding, re-clamping, and screwing the shelves on... You have to follow that pattern for each shelf or you risk ruining your shelf and if you have limited wood (like we did) that is not an option.

We also put very small pieces of wood to keep the bottles from rolling off their shelves. These were just scraps we had lying around and tapped them in with small finishing nails.

Good luck!

Awesome plans for a table that turned out perfect for our new home.

My third table like this built so far. Fairly easy project takes about a day to complete depending on stain dry time. I painted the frame white and used an American walnut stain on the table top and the lower shelf. 

My husband and I built this dresser to use as a changing table in our daughters nursery. I explain the build process (with photos) in this blog post : http://mekhart.blogspot.com/2011/03/nursery-room-biggest-build-yet.html and the finishing process in this blog post : http://mekhart.blogspot.com/2011/04/nursery-room-finished-dresser.html . I'm so thankful to Ana...I love that almost every element of her nursery is home made!

My first try and I had a blast. Being a St Louis Cardinal fan I decided to give the "simple rolling bar cart" a cardinal twist. It is great for using beside a BBQ grill. I actually gave this to my pastor for "Pastor Appreciation Day" and plan to build me another one.

This is my first big project I have done, it was for my wife’s birthday. I enjoyed the challenge though, 

This is my first project. I had to shorten the width of the shelf to fit the space I had for it. The board on the back is also a 1x4 instead of the 1x3 that was in the plans. This was a great first project for anyone.

This bed frame was born from a compromise of Will’s desire for something soft to lean on, my desire for something rustic, and both of our desires to have a bed that doesn’t slowly inch away from the wall. What happened was an amazing Restoration Hardware meets Pottery Barn DIY masterpiece.

This thing is sturdy! No wiggling or anything. And that headboard is ultra comfy and plush!

We used 2 – 2×4’s instead of 4×4’s for the posts because the 4×4’s are pressure treated.
We put in an upholstered headboard instead of planks and “sandwhiched” it on all sides rather than only top and bottom. It was at this point that we realized that we liked the way the simple, framed upholstered portion looked so much that we didn’t want the posts on the outside and the trim pieces on top. So we left those off.
Another change here is that the head board became a little wider than the Anna White plans… that would be because I did not measure along the edge of the upholstery… Also, it was taller than the Anna White plans because I wanted plenty of the upholstered section to lean on/show up above our pillows.
The foot board then needed to be a little wider as well, and there was no clean way of doing that. We figured it out, and I built it pretty easily. However, I did not take into consideration the fact that, although the headboard was wider…. The posts were not. This created problems during assembly.
One last change, was we made it about 6″ taller than the plans to give us room for under the bed storage.