My first Build
My first build. Toddler chair. Had to cut the legs from the original plans since my 2 year old nephew’s legs dangled and it was hard for him to climb on to. Loved it. Thanks Ana for the plans.
My first build. Toddler chair. Had to cut the legs from the original plans since my 2 year old nephew’s legs dangled and it was hard for him to climb on to. Loved it. Thanks Ana for the plans.
My daughter sent me a copy of your plans for the Little Helper Tower with the question, "can you make this?", to which I said a hesitant "yes. I decided to modify the plans so that instead of just making two ladders and holding them together with 6 sticks of wood, to make the sides also with vertical 1x2s, then use barrel nuts and furniture bolts to hold it all together. This gives you four pieces and a platform once it is disassembled should you ever need to take it apart.
I took some rough African Mahogany and Sapele and planed it to thickness (3/4") then cut to the required dimensions (1x2, 1x3, etc). I used a biscuit joiner to make slots and then glued the horizontal pieces, using the wooden biscuits, to the vertical pieces. I could not get myself to attempt lining up dowel holes, which would be a stronger attachment. I know this is not the best for a vertical application, but I used Titebond II wood glue and am confident it can take the weight of my grandson.
This project made from http://ana-white.com/2013/05/plans/mini-farmhouse-bedside-table-plans was a birthday gift for our daughter who was moving into her own apartment and preparing for an approaching marriage. This is exactly what she requested. While I did use Ana’s posted plans you may see some slight modifications.
Slimmed down version of the original plan. 60" x 11" x 35". Super happy with how it turned out!
Built with Red oak had to glue to get 2 by 4, then minwax stain with red mahogany, top is maple center with mahogany and walnut strips around.
This is my first attempt at a furniture project. I customized the Twin Farmhouse Bed plan to use leftover v-groove paneling for the planks and pre-primed MDF for the trim and headboard/footboard caps. I used pine 4x4s for the posts, cheap 1x4s for the rail supports, and 1/4 in white paneling ($10) under the mattress. Trim was nailed using standard 16 and 18 ga nailer. Used Spax screws for attaching the posts to the 2x6s behind the paneling and trim. Spray painted using Krylon paint primer and gloss finish. Spent a little extra on multiple coats of spray paint, but the finish was well worth it. The v-groove paneling required hand painting in the grooves for better white covereage on the final coat, but MDF soaks in the paint so it required more coats than the pre-primed trim needed.
I decided to build a dining table after finding Ana's site and being encouraged from the straight forward plans and great brag posts. Thank you for the encouragement, Ana!
This project took much longer than anticipated since we changed around the plans, used mahogany which is unforgiving, and I'm a bit of a perfectionist so we spent a lot of time on each step to make sure things were correct. In terms of modifications, we used 1x12, 1x10 and 1x8s on the table top. We only made two pedestal legs so we could fit chairs on the end. The overall dimensions are 96.5" x 46.5" x 29". We kind of fell into those dimensions after having to change things to make sure the breadboards fit properly.
I'm happy to share any additional plans/information with folks who want to build a similar table. We didn't use a stain but rather just 3 coats of MinWax Wipe-On Poly. It really brought out the beauty of the grain and color of the wood!
Thank you again, Ana! I hope future generations will keep this table and think it's cool that their family made it. I'm planning to have a plaque engraved with our names and the date to attach to the table as well.
Fri, 05/22/2015 - 20:41
Out of all the pedestal table plan variations yours is my favourite. Not only because of the beautiful wood but I like your modification of the base the best. Can you tell me what is the inner width between the two pedestal legs? Also how many people can you comfortably fit around that table and how many can you squish around? If you have a moment to answer my questions, thanks so much.
I built this step stool for my granddaughter after looking at quite a few different plans on the internet and not really finding exactly what I wanted.
Did the farmhouse bed and modified it just a bit to create 12” of space between the floor and bed to give us a bit of storage underneath.
This project was tough using pine since, from the big box store it's hit or miss on getting long boards that are straight. But clamps and sanding worked affectively. There were a few little nuances but for the most part it turned out great! It took me a while since it's cold here and the stain/polyurethane took a little longer than I would have liked.
My husband is finishing up his last year of graduate school and needed a big desk for all of his engineering homework.
We changed the plans a bit by making the shelving unit a bit narrower (just wide enough to fit our printer), adding a second shelving unit (which then made the whole desk longer) and making the desk deeper so it would be easier to fit more stuff on top. We also added a sliding shelf so we could pull out our printer.
It ended up being about 72" long, 24" deep, and each shelving unit was about 20" wide.
This desk ended up driving up crazy. Drawers are SO difficult to get exactly square and perfectly lined up. The left one turned out a little bit crooked but we gave up on it and left it like that. This is the major reason I ranked this project as intermediate. In my opinion paint is more difficult than stain, because it filled in some of the gaps between the wood pieces but not all of them.
Our maple plywood for the desk top took our stain kind of funny so I spent a lot of time trying to sand out the messy parts. The polyurethane also went on funny, but when I finally had the third coat perfect and ready to go, someone left a paint can on top of the desktop before the poly was completely dry. I had to sand out the mark and start all over again with the poly. Argh.
Even with all the frustrations, we ended up very happy with this desk. If you look super close you can see the little mistakes, but from a normal distance the desk looks great! My husband can spread out with all of his homework!
Used wood top instead of concrete.
Xmas gift fir my daughter at college. Modified the standard Rustic X desk. Made this at 42 inches long , no lower shelves and added a small upper monitor shelf.
Hubby and I were tired of seeing our shoes lined up on the wall when we walked in the house. We also wanted something that we could store our snuggies in when we aren't using them.
This was a GREAT weekend project for us to do together!!!
Fri, 05/24/2013 - 05:09
I was wondering where did you get this piece or the step by step to build it thanks.
Great quick project. Made two so that I could give one as a gift. Used chalkboard paint so I could change box names. Made bottom box a Santa box for the Christmas season.
Built this using Anna White's "MIMI'S FAUX MANTLE" but instead of using crown molding I elected to use STONE TILES in neutral tones and finished the surround and mantle in white giving the piece a nice soft appeal. The building plans were easy to follow and took about 2 days to complete the whole process (because of drying times) not to mention how reasonable the cost was. I already had the tiles, adhesive, and paint from left over projects.
Built for my first Grandson Lucas. Made of pure bond poplar plywood and white pine. Templates were made of cardboard for a circle (20" radius) and a circle (14.5" radius). Placed small circle inside the larger circle to create a half moon shape. Identical sides were cut from the plywood. Extensive use of Kreg pocket holes to attach (25) 16" boards to the plywood sides. Each board requires 2 pocket holes (1 1/4) on each side. Added a base to the cradle for stability and attached plywood cloud shapes to cover base and add a decorative touch. Frame installed and attached rails to the inside supporting 30" by 16" infant mattress.
My second farmhouse table, and much easier this time around! Like the first one I built, this one was modified from Tommy's plans (see link below) which was modified from Ana's plans on this site.
Before I put everything together, I used a 1/2" round-over bit on a trim router to round the edges of each piece individually, then sanded each piece individually. After everything was routed and sanded, I joined it all together--it kind of reminds me of Lincoln Logs now!
One other thing I did differently with this table, is I filled in the cracks with a darker wood putty. I love that it has the plank lines without the crevice for crumbs, etc. to fall into.
I finished with Rust-oleum Early American stain and Rust-oleum poly in semi-gloss.
I'm having trouble linking the plans, so again--these are modified from the Farmhouse Table Update Pocket Hole plans on this site, and also from this site: http://tommyandellie.com/?p=2582
I will be getting together with my girl's group and exchanging ornaments, which are supposed to be handmade. I was determined to use only what I had on-hand. I didn't use a plan and this is what I came up with. I did have to go buy the bling, sparkles and a hook but I had everything else. I'm pretty happy with it. By the way those pedals are made from wood biscuits! Not sure why this is uploading sideways as its not sideways in my file.
I originally built this for a small closet in an old home. When I moved, I took it with me and was able to rearrange it to fit in a traditional closet. The center section is a modification of a toy storage plan that I use to store folded clothes.
Liked the plan took way longer to sand and get everything cleaned up than it took to build.
1x3 slats for under the bed.
Made it extra high just full 8’ boards for the posts and added extra railing and dropped a 12” twin in.
It’s super sturdy, used scraps to add a headboard where the stairs are.
Turned out well