Community Brag Posts

This was our first build alone. I've helped my dad build various things through out the years but was this first time me and my husband built something together.
The bed plans were great and it went together easily. We couldn't find untreated 4x4 posts so we went with two 2x4 sandwiched together, and then we bolted the headboard posts to the footboards. The side rails are plywood trimmed with 1x3's and topped with a 1x2. We also used L brackets to attach the side rails to the head and footboards and addition to bolts on the headboard and 2" screws on the footboard. We needed to assemble the bed in a way we could easily disassemble because we are moving soon.

Two year old is being evicted from the baby room by the baby and we decided to build him a big boy bed using the Kentwood Twin Plan. Used only pine and the mattress is supported by slats. The bed looks great and is incredibly solid. Thank you for the plan, Ana.

I needed more room, so I changed the dimensions to a 4 x 4 table.  Used the same amount of materials.  I made the side leg measurements 48" wide and the cross braces 45".  My top sheet of plywood is 48" x 48" and the bottom sheet is 48" x 41".  The rest of the leg measurements are the same. 

A little overkill on the screws, but made it extra sturdy. 

I saw this site, copied down the materials list, bought everything I needed and was finished before dinner.  I did it all myself, only had my husband cut the plywood, the rest was all me!  Woo hoo, so proud of myself!

I rough sanded the edges and corners to get rid of any splinters.

Made of old fence rail (the dark pieces) and cheap 2x4s and 1x12s .

This is not as stable as I hoped, but for an afternoon's project that got all those tools off the workshop floor, it's not bad. I will add a diagonal brace at the back later. Much later.

NOTE: My engineer friend notes that 2 braces at the rear, below the bottom shelf and below the top shelf, would minimize side-to-side wobbling, and 2 braces front to back, both under the bottom shelf, would minimize the front-to-back wobbling, They could be a scrap of plywood, a 1x6 or wider scrap. Just nail them in two or more places on each of the ladders and they make the structure more rigid. Screw them in if you want a shelf unit you can disassemble.

TIPS:
If you are using pockethole screws, start the screws in all the holes before you put the crosspieces on. Stop when you see the tip of the screw come through the first piece.

Clamp scrap 2x4 to the uprights to hold the crosspieces in place as you drill.

To get the shelves in place, lean the ladders against each other and attach the bottom and top boards on one side. Than pull the other ladder out as far as it needs to go and screw that side of the shelves in place.

Don't try this without clamps.

It could have been cheaper if I had used all reclaimed fence 2x4s, and if my errand runner had bought cheaper 1x12s. He bought top-grade when #2 would have worked for half the price,

This was my first project, my wife and I started with the table, which took us a little while but ended up being pretty simple. Unfortunately we do not own a saw but discovered that Lowes will happily cut the wood for you. After we completed the table we started working on the bench, which is where we ran into a slight problem. Some how our frame boards ended up being two short, so as a fix we did not put any spaces in between the seat slats and used four 7 inch pieces we had left over to complete the full frame. We also altered the plan to make our bench a little longer than the original its 57 inches instead of 52.

This was my first woodworking project ever - and am thrilled!! Thank you Ana-White.com!! I needed a beautiful china cabinet for a fraction of the retail cost. Once I found plans on this website, I bought some power tools and got started! I only worked a couple of hours each weekend so it took a while to finish.

I modified the Shanty sideboard and Shanty hutch plans in a few ways: Shorter overall width to more comfortably fit my dining room, shorter height (which I now regret), fewer shelves in the hutch, different method to attach shelves, and added glass doors to the hutch. My shelves were not perfectly flush with the cabinet walls (oops) so I couldn't use pocket holes to attach them. Because I detest traditional shelving hardware, I just secured 1/2-in quarter round to the walls and rested the shelves on that.

For the glass hutch doors, I built frames similar to the sideboard doors' frames -- two frames for each door, for a total of 8 frames. On 4 frames, I used a rabbit router bit to create an inset for the glass I bought and had cut at Lowe's. I secured the glass with glazier's points and silicon caulk, then attached an un-routered frame to the back of each door with screws. I chose to keep the screws on the back visible and accessible so that I could easily replace the glass if needed without destroying the door.

Thanks for the inspired design! Went together simple and quick. Your site rocks.

Very sturdy and stylish step stool built for my son in a style to match the kitchen and bathroom in our house.

This entire project was built using scrap plywood from a previous project and reclaimed oak boards that we demoed from our house while remodeling.

The sides were simply cut using a table saw to the rough dimension and then I added the details using a bandsaw. The stairs and rails were rough cut on the tablesaw and then milled using a jointer and planer to the specifications in the plan. Once cut I used a pocket screw jig to drill all the necessary holes before finishing assembly on the base. Each section was finished separately and then I used pocket screws to attach the steps last.

Very easy project that I made slightly more complicated by using reclaimed wood and a 2 tone design. Would recommend pocket screws to ensure strength and durability...I can stand on this and it doesn’t even budge!

Thanks for the plans!!

http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/connies-coop

I built this and posted it on 6/8/15 on backyardchickens.com and it has been "pinned" a few thousand times since then... 

My husband, Daughter and I built this loft bunkbed for our seven-year-old granddaughter‘s birthday. It turned out wonderful and she squealed when she saw it! Thanks so much for your online plans.

Chairs made as birthday gifts.

We adjusted the plan and created a 4x7 sand box with toy box and canopy. We are in love with the way this has turned out!

Stained with Minwax Jacobean. Thank you for the plans!

Love making these. Dressed it up a bit using an ogee router bit to give the bases and top a different look.

Yes, my husband and I share our bedroom with 6 dogs and an occasional cat (or 4). Our older dog (Petra) has slept on our bed for over 10 years, and she's getting too old to jump anymore. We didn't want her to feel like she was getting kicked off the bed, so I made Petra her very own bed at the end of ours so that she wouldn't feel left out. I was inspired by MurdaRae's dog bed (http://ana-white.com/2012/06/doggie-daybed), and thought it was genius to use a toddler/crib bed. So I went looking for plans on Ana-White, and came up with a mixture between a couple of twin bed plans. I love that the plans are easy enough to modify my sizes, and come up with exactly the custom solution that I need. This was my first big project using Bri-Wax. The last one was kind of a disaster when the wax changed the stain color to something not-so-great. With this project, I learned to wait at least 2 weeks before attempting to wax it. I was blown away with the results. It is a beautiful subtle satin finish that feels great to the touch. Plus, I can easily touch up all the dog fingernail scratches that will inevitably occur. When I re-assembled the bed in my bedroom, I actually nicked it in a few places. No problem -- slap on some more Bri-Wax! My Bri-Wax was 11 years old, and pure liquid. I tossed it in the fridge (per Bri-Wax's recommendation), and it was as good as new. The only real problem I had with this project was leaking sap from one of the 4x4s. I'm still fighting this today. In talking with Rustoleum/Zinsser reps, they said that no sap could penetrate their "Seal Coat" shellac product. After 5 coats, the sap is still penetrating, but only if I turn it on it's side or upside down. I'm still baffled. I made the mattress cover out of a dog blanket, and made the cushions from some remnant fabric (suitable for dogs and weekly washing), so this was a fairly inexpensive project. It was a success because Petra slept in her bed from the fist night and loved that she had all the room to herself, and no boston terrorists (I mean terriers) attempted to bother her.