Community Brag Posts

We built this huge 7' buffet for our living/dining room area.

I thought this wood sleigh was so cute, I made it for my mom for Christmas! It turned out cute, it was a good jigsaw exercise! I made it smaller, would probably make it bigger next time, but it's a good size for a table top. She loved it!

Built this bookcase for my daughter, only modification was to add the X's on the side. She needed to be able to store all of her books on it.  Love it!  I now have another family member that wants one just like it!

Tv console with sliding barn doors and an electric fireplace insert. Measures 83" wide x 31.5" tall x 18" deep. 

My oldest son really wanted a toy cash register, and he loves pretending he has a Bait & Tackle shop. I built the market base where the front side is for "Will's Stop 'n' Shop" and it can be turned around and used for "Wyatt's Bait and Tackle". The countertop holds the cash register and shopping basket perfectly. They are great Shopkeepers!

Used mortise and tenon joints. Primed, painted and distressed the wood. Top was stained. 

Full tutorial on the blog tamarasjoy.com

I built this basketball hoop for my sons room over a year ago and it has stood the test of time! The wood rim never cracked. Plus it looks fantastic :)

I added length by adding another "cubby" and increased the height a few inches. There were no instructions for the door, so I made a square like a picture frame the size of the door opening from 1x4's and routed the inner portion of the square with my dremel so I could lay in wainscoting to the inner door. I made the top differently and made it more farmhouse style by attaching four 1x4's together and adding breadboards at the ends. The shelves are movable instead of being attached to give more flexibility in storage. I used 1/4 inch MDF board for the back because it was cheaper than plywood, looked better when painted and was easier to cut in any holes if needed for media equipment without the splinters of plywood.

The top is made of top grade pine (no knots) and stained in Early American with glossy polyurethane. The bottom is cheaper pine boards (with knots) and painted Caffeine Nation from Valspar (my kid picks out all paint color because I will spend hours choosing paint and he takes 30 seconds and his color selections are always perfect for us).

If I had to do it all over, I would have attached five 1x4's for the top instead of four because there just isn't much "lip" to the top. I would definitely change the doors from inset to overlay. Inset doors are more of a farmhouse style but are not forgiving if you are just slightly off. Also, the doors do not shut all the way...they stay open just ever-so-slightly, I think it is due to the hinges, I am not sure. It is not a big deal but it bugs me. I have never had this problem with overlay doors.

Built for my son and daughter-in-law. Love it

Thank You Dmccoy for the plans used for this project.  Great idea using the 2×6s for strength and stability! I built this Pedestal and placed furniture slides underneath to allow for sliding out for cleaning and access.

Just finished up this table. I'm probably going to sell it as the wife would rather have the Pedestal Table. So, it will remain in the house until it sells. Then, I'll get to work on the other one. Thanks Ana!

This project was a bit of a challenge. My garage has uneven flooring and a concrete lip around the edge of wall so I had to make the back legs 10 inches shorter than the front. Overall, it turned out well and everything is completely leveled much to my amazement. I'm thinking of making more shelves on the other end of the garage to free up more space.

I designed and built this chiffarobe based off of the mirrored wardrobe plans provided by Ana White.  I received a Kreg jig for Christmas and immediately put it to use.  We used 1x12's for the top sides and back to make it narrower for our entryway.  My wife did an excellent job painting it green with brown distressed look.

Note: I think the plans were slightly incorrect. Add 2 more 2x4s @8' long (construction studs will do, you don't need 96" length) to be certain you have enough wood. I bought 15, planning to add the lower rear support rail, but then I found I didn't have enough decking. So I scabbed it for decking. Then I didn't have enough for the stairs, so I found some 2x4s in the garage that gave me 5 out of the 6 stairs. The next day I made the last stair. So buy 2 or three more 2x4s than the plan says. The worst that can happen is you have an extra 2x4 sitting around for a while. As for all the other cut items, just don't mess up your cuts and there is enough material.

This was pretty easy to build. It took a lot of work for just me, working by myself. I think the thing is VERY sturdy. We had about 200 lbs of adult and kids up there and it didn't seem to be complaining at all.

I used no glue. I think I was too focused on getting the project completed that I forgot to apply glue at the several steps where she mentions to apply glue.

I did not use Kreg(R) brand screws. But I used the nearest equivalent available at my local home store. It turns out there is another specialty woodworking shop in town which sells the Kreg brand screws, and it turns out they are pretty much the same price. So next time, I will make a special trip to that store because the Kreg screws seat much more solidly in the pockets than the regular pan head screws.

Hello everyone and thank you Ana-White for all of your plans.  I love this site and have built several pieces of furniture for our home from them. 

This bed is absolutely Rock Solid! In reading the blog I noticed several people asking for the "modified" dimensions or resizing for a standard king ( I put them in the blog but this is what I did)

Headboard: 9 1x8's at 30 inches long and 2 1'x6's at 30 inches long (I omitted the 1x3 end pieces at 30 inches and that way I had 76 inches wide.

The plans call for the 1x4 panel trip pieces (for headboard and foot board) to be 80''.  I resized them to 76''

The headboard 4x4 legs were still 54''

The bottom headers 2x4's for both the headboard and footboard calls for 87''...I changed it to 83''.

The top header 2x6's  for both the headboard and footboard call for 89''...I changed those to 85''.

The plan calls for the footboard to have 10 1x8 panel pieces at 15 inches. like the headboard I changed these to 9 1x8's at 15'' and 2 1x6's at 15''.

We have a new 12'' memory foam mattress so I did like others and used 2x4's for cross beams secured with truss hangers and then used peg board for additional support.  The side rails are 2x12's at 62' ( I wanted a little extra room to be able to bolt them to the head and foot board.)

NOTE: The cut list calls for 4 1x8's  You Need 5.  And to do the plans my way you need a few 1x6's.

Sorry if this is wordy but I hope it helps!

Thanks Ana for all of your awesome plans!  My Fiance' loves the furniture and I am addicted to building because of you!

Dave

Needed a storage spot in the living room to hide the wii remotes/games and the iRobot mop, while allowing easy access and charging capabilities. This piece fit the bill and looks beautiful!  

We cut a hole in the back, in front of an outlet, and placed a power/USB strip inside the cabinet. 

Used routed plywood scraps for the false drawer fronts and they look so real that everyone tries to pull open a drawer rather than swing open a door :)

NOTE:  The cut list in the plans say to cut the 1x3s for the decorative top @ 35.5". They should be 37" each, which we realized after cutting and went to put the cabinet together :(