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I followed the plans pretty closely. I added dividers to make 3 drawer units but I didn't find it necessary to have the top shelf go all the way to the back since it would never function as a shelf. I used scrap pieces for that and they weren't big enough to be full shelves.

I used 1/2" MDF for the bottom, sides, and backs of the drawers to cut down on weight, cost, and general bulkiness. I used this free app called Cut List to figure out the easiest way to have the guys at Home Depot cut all the drawer panels after I learned I'm not that good with a circular saw. I used a hack saw to cut aluminum bars for hanging files and used scrap wood to make the little brackets to hold the bars upright in the drawer. The full extension drawer slides are functionally and asthetically better but it would have been so much easier to put in basic bottom mount slides. 

I wanted a wood grain top and ended up with common pine boards over more expensive poplar or oak and I would use pine again without hesitation. I used Google SketchUp to figure out the widths of boards I needed to make the top with minimal cuts. Then joined them with glue and mending plates and sanded the hell out of them. I altered the dimensions slightly to make it the same size desktop as the Bedford desk. My two wing sections are 23" x 23" but I should have made them 23" deep by more like 24" or 25" long. I had to hack the bottom bracing to make a spot for the drawer units to slide into. If you alter the dimensions make sure you can secure a brace between the main body and the wing of the desktop and still have room for the brace at the edge of the wing. 

My cost includes things like a Kreg jig, saw blade, clamps, paint brushes etc. so you may be able to do this for less. I could have gone with a middle of the line paint I think. This project was a beast for me because a) I'm not a furniture maker b) I don't own a table saw which would have been amazing c) I picked the hardest way to make the desktop and d) I modified some of the dimensions from the basic plans. I worked on this thing for weeks (granted sometimes I didn't touch it for several days or a week). But it was a fun and rewarding project. 

I had just finished my daughter's playhouse loft bed when I saw this plan. It was super easy to build and I used all left over wood from the playhouse. I used 6-inch boards for the sides and shelves since that was what I had left over. Other than that, I followed this plan exactly. Thanks for posting!

Second project ive completed from Ana White, and I am very happy with how this bed turned out! The only thing I would fix would be the finish, I wanted it a bit whiter. not so creamy. Otherwise very quick and easy fun project to do. =)

We built this as a birthday gift for family members and boy were they excited. We, though, were not excited to let it go. So happy with how it turned out. The plans are good for reference but make sure to make your own measurements when using milled lumber from a big box store. Some of the the changes we had to make on the fly were to the back and front panels having to use a different combination of board sizes to fill it in without massive gaps. Its recommended that you lay them out first before attaching them to the frames. Also the measurements on the cooler lid were smaller by 1/4" to 1/2" of what's listed in order to get a snug fit. The shelf on ours is two 1x6's cut to the width of the whole project (around 16.5") and then the shelf brackets were also 1x6's cut to a length of 10". Brackets are mounted inside the legs using wood glue and three 2.5" screws through the backside/inside of the cooler box to hide (obviously done before the cooler was inserted). For drainage we attached a 2" piece of 1/2" inside diameter clear tubing that was fed/jammed through the cooler drain and pulled through the other side and then a 1/2" push on adapter, threaded on the other end screwed unto a 1/2" faucet head. Drilled a 3/4" hole about 2.5" (center mass) from the 2x4 cooler base through the middle piece on the side. We placed the cooler in first and used a pair of pliers to grab the clear tube and line it up with the hole and then pushed a long screw driver through the tube from inside the cooler in order to guide the faucet head/adapter combo into the tube and stiffening the tube so it didn't collapse when pushing it on. We couldn't decide what do to with the center display piece and then remembered we had a can of chalkboard spray paint left over from another project. We spray painted the whole menu board and then painted the "logo" at the top before clear-coating it with a protective enamel. Its a snug fit so the pressure holds it in place but you could also use velcro strips on the back if that tickles your fancy. We took the snug fit route that way if they didn't want the menu board in. A 1/2' hole was drilled towards the top so they can use a finger to pull the board out.