Salvaged Wood Sideboard DIY
This one is from last year but one of my favourite pieces we have built at Naughty Timber Rustic Creations. Thanks for the plans Ana White!
Submitted by Rerra Rose Munro
This one is from last year but one of my favourite pieces we have built at Naughty Timber Rustic Creations. Thanks for the plans Ana White!
Submitted by Rerra Rose Munro
I had just had a bad experience with a furniture company that sent me the wrong table after I had waited for many weeks for it. I was so exasperated I decided I would make my own from your instructions. I am a 62 yo woman and I had a blast making it. I am now planning to make a bedroom set next!!!
Sat, 11/06/2021 - 17:32
That is absolutely beautiful, so much better than anything you could have bought in a store!
My first project! It turned out pretty well, although I had some trouble hammering the nails in straight! It cost me a little more because I used fir instead of pine - there weren't any straight pine boards. I also used a 1x3 for the bottom, becuase it's along James' bed and I didn't want him banging his head if they stuck out too much. Perfect for his Thomas trains!
The wall I wanted them on is a little less than 8', so I cut 18" off both and now have two more little shelves to go somewhere, yay!
It didn't take me long at all to make these. I enjoyed making them and all my neighbors love them. They have a nice amount of space. I actually had to make mine smaller than the instructions. I had most of the wood on hand.
With the remodel budget for my powder room only being $300, I needed to get creative with the vanity. The room is tiny, so the vanity needed to fit well in the space and allow us to still move around. I had rescued this board from the dumpster at church when it was being remodeled and kept it in my garage until inspiration struck.
I'm not a carpenter, I try and I'm learning as I go, but the vanity turned out great for me. I made it to fit the $15 Craigslist vessel sink and the little nook in the bathroom. The towel bar was $1 at my local restore. It's nice and sturdy attached to the studs with "L" brackets.
For the tutorial on how I built it using one board, visit my blog.
We have a limited amount of counter space in our kitchen, while also having a large open space that is unused. We've always planned on including an island once we renovate, but we didn't want to wait. We decided to build a butcher block-style island with open shelving underneath - a simple design that would give us all the counter space we needed and some additional storage space.
We bought a premade bamboo tabletop, as well as 4x4 cedar posts for the legs, 2x4s for the framework, and 1x2 slats for the shelf.
You can see all of the details of how we built it in the blog post, but here are a few of the features:
- an interior framework that connects to the tabletop and outer framework so that no screws are visible on the outside
- countersunk GRK structural screws used to attach the legs htat look like carriage bolts
-feet are angle cut so that floor is less likely to be scratched if the island is moved
We're really proud of this build and are enjoying having so much extra counter space. It's amazing what you can get done in a weekend!
Change the plans a little bit very happy how they turned out
My mom really wanted me to build her a bed for her dog and was coming to visit in a week, so I jumped on the project immediately. (Although it is for her pup, mine is modeling the bed:-).) I took the Farmhouse Doll Bed plan and used that as a base for a modified version. I went to Joanns and grabbed a standard 15"x17" piece of 2" medium density foam for about $5 and built around it. Instead of using the 1x3s for the headboard, I used 9 1x2s to even out the space. This was also my first time ever sewing, so that was probably the most time consuming part of the project! (That's what took it over the edge from being an "hour or two project" to an "afternoon project".) I also modified the plans for Ana's Outdoor Cushions to fit the smaller piece of foam. (I fell in love with the dog fabric from Tonic Living, so I HAD to make my own!) I finished it off with 2 coats of spray paint.
This project goes together very easily. Had my adult son come by and make it for his daughter.
Did make one adjustment ... the supporting bar on the small frame ... the one that determines the opening angle ... at 6" the chair was too open ... at 6 1/2" it was more comfortable for the little ones. We used glue and air-gun brads for joining ... once dry I was able to sit in the chair without collapse!
I wanted a bookcase for my son's room that would add some color and be a functional storage unit for his books and toys. I did not buy the highest grade of pine because it would have doubled the project cost and I knew I was going to paint it. The only trouble I had was that the boards were a little cupped so the shelves don't have an invisible fit. I used stock moulding and cut down the base trim to fit. In hind sight, I would have not done the adjustable shelves. I like the symmetrical look of this and can't see myself moving them. I did make a cleat to attach it securely to the wall so that a busy climbing boy wouldn't pull it down on himself.
This is my take on the classic Oliver String Puzzle. It was built from scrap wood, a ring from a previous project, purchased wood beads and rope.
The goal is to remove the ring from the puzzle. My kids and wife found it quite challenging. I would rate the skill level at 3 out 5. If you can't figure it out from the pictures, refer to the video.
Build Instructions: https://www.instructables.com/id/Oliver-String-Puzzle/
Solution: https://youtu.be/VTb0IlMXSiU
Here is how the clubhouse I built turned out! Still need to install trim, paint, and a do few other finishing touches.
I built these shelves and wasn't pleased with the finished look. We went back and added a small piece of crown molding. It made the difference I was looking for.
I recently published my first foldable farmhouse table last week here: http://ana-white.com/2013/06/foldable-farmhouse-table The first one I made was very heavy because I used 2x6 tops and 4x4 legs. I decided to make another one that would be lighter and easier to transport. The plans are basically the same just instead I used 1x6 for the top and put 2x4s together for the legs. I also shorted the length by about a foot. The only issue with making the table shorter length is that the legs don't fold completely flush. You could easily make the legs short enough to fold flush, but then the table was a little too short from the ground up for us. The same as before I simply used kreg joints to join the top boards together. I then made a 2x4 frame and attached it to the bottom. I made each of the legs separately by joining 2x4s together and sanding everything down. Everything was stained before putting the legs on using Miniwax Dark walnut stain. I used 2 coats of Miniwax water based clear coat to seal it. A notch was cut out on each of the bottom 2x4 supports on the legs and I glued in a small piece of wood cut to size. These are so I can put in a 2x4 support board under the table so that the legs do not fold in on themselves when it is standing up. The legs are just attached using door hinges you can buy in packs in the hardware section. Be careful when screwing into the 1x6 top not to use too long of screws or else you will over screw and have them come through into your table top. Table design was by Amber Veatch Designs and photographed by Andi Mans Photography
Tue, 07/07/2015 - 06:41
We have built something very similar and we have a good bit of wobble at the top, even though the stretcher down the center of the table is holding solid in there and secred with clasps. Were thinking of some sort of sliding pin into the top of the leg to the apron. Anyone run into this before?
I needed a console table that would fit in a fairly small spot and knew as soon as I saw this plan that I wanted to create something very similar in a scaled down version. Made a few modifications to the original other than size, like using a solid piece of wood for both the top and bottom panels.
The building plans are easy to follow and it all went together easily. I included the modified cuts on my blog if anyone else out there needs a little table like this one.
A house warming present for my little brother and his wife
I had to convert all the measurements from inches to mm, but it was worth the brain drain. I didn't add the garden, but extended out the chicken coop. I am thrilled with the results! Thank you!
Fri, 12/03/2021 - 07:39
WOW, definitely worth the extra effort, just beautiful! I wish we could offer metric plans, may need to figure that out.
Wed, 03/23/2022 - 20:32
Did you change out the 2x4 and 2x6 on the lower half?
Actually built this last Summer, but just now getting around to posting it up. Made it with Cypress, if I remember correctly, which is cheaper than Teak or other woods, but it's hard to stain because of the natural oils, and tends to flake a bit. Didn't come out too badly, though, if I do say so myself. Here's my little girl helping to show it off.
This my version of the Farmhouse Bed.
http://ana-white.com/2010/03/farmhouse-bed-calif-king
A friend of mine wanted just a headboard and so I set out looking for a style that would compliment his home.
My lumber stash is primarily made up of reclaimed pallets and salvaged 2x4 lumber.
The only thing I had to buy was the 10' 4x4 post that I used for the legs.
I used star drive, self tapping, deck screws to assemble this beast. As the style is rustic I didn't bother trying to hide any of the holes.
Once assembled I sanded it twice and then "pickled" it to get that "barnwood" look.
The vinegar used in the pickling process should kill any microbes for those who would be concerned about using reclaimed lumber in a residential setting.
Using the "Y Truss Round Table" plans, I created a 48" table with metal accents.
Sun, 05/31/2015 - 01:31
Hi gcomfort I am in love with the top of your table! it is beautiful!! what wood did you use for to create the smooth surface?
Fri, 06/05/2015 - 08:11
The table top is 1.5 inches thick made up of 2 layers of 3/4 inch think plywood. The top layer of the table top is hickory plywood (the top and bottom layers of the plywood are hickory). The base layer of the table top is 3/4 inch general plywood from Home Depot.
Thanks, again.
Sat, 08/29/2015 - 08:49
I love this!!! Where did you buy the metal accent that goes around the perimeter of the table top? What is it?
Sat, 09/05/2015 - 07:30
Thanks! I bought it from Lowes. It's just 1.5in Wide aluminum painted black and connected with a bunch of black, flat headed screws.
Sat, 09/05/2015 - 07:30
Thanks! I bought it from Lowes. It's just 1.5in Wide aluminum painted black and connected with a bunch of black, flat headed screws.
Sat, 09/19/2015 - 11:18
I actually looked at the hardware stores for something similar before you answered by comment. I wasn't able to find anything that I thought would work. Do you remember what the aluminum is used for in other jobs? Or what area you found it in?
A family member suggested using the metal stips that hold down the end of carpet, but it's not long enough for the table.
Thank you!
I am a welder by trade and metal is what I do best. I have a few friend in the woodworking industry and they make it seem really easy. so with the help of a friend and my wife getting me a table saw I mad her this console. This was my first build and starting out I was walking around finding wood like I was looking for my lost mother. after a short weekend and learning from my mistakes and the plans from Ana White being sooo darn good to follow step by step my wife has this beautiful console in the living room.