Mini Farmhouse Bedside Table
Second table I made from these plans. Dark stain really accents the grain and the glue that I did not clean up :(
Minwax One Coat Polyurethane Clear Satin (2 coats)
Second table I made from these plans. Dark stain really accents the grain and the glue that I did not clean up :(
These are the cubby seats featured on Shanty 2 Chic's site along with Pottery Barn inspired Trestle table. This was a lot of fun to make because it was the first project I did using my hand saw. I normally have the wood cut at home depot. But now I can do it on my own!! you can check them out on my blog: goldhoopstochickencoops.blogspot.com
As a Christmas present, SNC promised LFS a new table, her choice of plans. It's July, and we just ate our first meal at the finished table! We'd looked at a few of the plans around the site, but really liked the angled legs of the Benchright Farmhouse Table, and SNC thought the metal accents would get in some manliness!
We didn't quite read all the comments before we began so we faced the issue of plan directions v. cut list not matching up, which we didn't learn until 10 steps further down the build/assembly. We had a hard time finding non-rounded off edges for the 1x2s, as well. If we'd realized the impact those edges have further down the project, we might have been pickier at the lumber store. Using the Kreg Jig came in super handy on the legs & frames. We picked up a DeWalt kit that had extra long driving bits and just used regular Phillips head screws sometimes.
Since we live in NC, surrounded by hundreds of old tobacco barns, LFS wanted to use reclaimed lumber for the table top. After boards that were too thin, warped, short and generally insufficient for our basic skills and tools, we went to a specialty lumber yard and got gorgeous cedar instead.
We weren't loving the sagging of the end frame 2x4s, so we hid them a bit by making the table top breadboard sandwiched between the end 1x6 cedar boards. We used 1x6 and 1x8 boards for the tabletop.
For the stain, LFS further perused the site and went with a Minwax Pecan stain, layered with a Rustoleum Espresso that got wiped off every few minutes to let the pecan have a chance of peeking through on the legs/base. While we both liked the cedar, the light/dark contrast was too contemporary for our taste, so we used the Pecan on the top as well. The table got 3 layers of Minwax Helmsphar, lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper between layers.
The aforementioned first meal had guests at the table and comfortably sat 6 adults who all sang it's praises :) Fun awesome (and sometimes awesomely frustrating!) build, super happy the Christmas present monkey is off our backs, but even more glad to eat dinner at it now.
This rustic console was inspired by Ana Whites console, but I made some minor modifications to make it my own. This is one of my favorite pieces to make. I had some scraps laying around and decided to make this piece.
Had to half the length due to room size, but was happy with the results!
I loved the plans for this table. My husband and I spent about 5 hours making it yesterday. The plans and instructions are well planned and easy to use.
I've made a few projects from Ana's website, it's always so easy to understand and such beautiful projects.
Sun, 11/18/2012 - 20:08
Thank you so much. We love this table. I'm still looking for two special chairs for the ends.
We are currently almost done building the farmhouse queen bed.
This was my first build. I wasn't able to find wainscoting so I ended up making my own by gouging a piece of plywood with a screwdriver.
Thank you Ana White for the great plan!
This project was built by my husband, for our daughter who needed some storage for her card-making and scrapbooking supplies. I had the easy part of doing the painting and purchasing the hardware. The hinges and handles are from Home Depot. It is a challenge to find good lumber at our big box stores. That was probably the most difficult part of the build...dealing with warped wood. This piece is suited for the primitive and rustic look so it didn't matter that the wood had some dings and splintering from the edges. Everything was sanded well and these marks just added to the character. He did encounter some problems with drilling the 1 and 1/4" kreg screws into the frame of the door. The wood wanted to split. Also, the plans called for magnetic closures but we could not determine how those would be installed as the shelves do not reach to the doors. So we cut some wooden swinging closures and attached them to the top of the cabinet. They seem to work well. One modification if he builds this again (and our other daughters are now putting in their orders!) would be to add a wooden support down the center front so that the doors would have something to close against. The way it is now, the doors could be pushed inward and put a lot of stress on the hinges. We were very pleased at how this project turned out! Thank you for the plans.
Tue, 10/09/2012 - 13:20
I like the way that came out and I agree its hard to get good wood at the big box stores it took me a while to go through the stacks they had there to find straight pieces. The other thing I had an issue with was the 1 1/4"
Kreg screws as well but if you dont over drive them it generally will not crack the wood. Just be gentle and if it still does turn the clutch down on the drill that will help as well.
Thu, 10/11/2012 - 18:11
Lawson4450,
Thank you for your comment, and for the advice on the Kreg screws!
We are in the process of cleaning up our garage, so that future building projects are easier to do! One thing my husband also built was a small workbench, with a lower shelf to store the Kreg jig, screws, etc on. It comes in handy as we always know where to at least find the Kreg stuff! We should also keep some notes on the shelf, too, to refer to when the wood cracks, etc.
-Ann
Wed, 10/10/2012 - 10:37
You could solve the door not reaching the shelves problem by installing the magnetic closures on the underside of the top piece so it would also act as a stopper for the doors so they don't swing to the inside. I think that's what Ana meant in the plans. Kinda like this:
Thu, 10/11/2012 - 18:04
Aisha,
Thank you for the photo of the magnetic closure. That makes a lot of sense! We could still add those, and also leave the swinging locks in place, too.
-Ann
Sat, 10/13/2012 - 10:43
I am the lucky receiver of this jelly cabinet. It is exactly what I had in mind when I was on the hunt for one. I was so pleasantly surprised when my parents came to visit and showed me my early birthday present in their trunk! :)
We made the traditional Twin Farmhouse bed using Ana's plans. We did modify the height of the headboard and foot board in case we decide to move the bed to under her window.
I was very particular about the sizing and placements of the sideboard/trundle. I did not want a big gap between the mattress and the trundle. Also, did not want the actual bed mattress to sit down too far into the 1X10 and look like a crib.
Very happy with the results. Thanks so much, Ana!!!
Mon, 08/18/2014 - 05:01
This looks great! I see you have carpet (as do I) did you use caster wheels? It looks like it's resting on the floor. I want t build but, I'm concerned about the ease of sliding. Tips appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
We used the same farmhouse table plans. We just used 2x6x8 for the top and capped the ends with 2x2s instead of the breadboard. Leaving the boards long gives use optional seating on the ends. From start to finish it took about a day and a half.
Great plan and an easy build. NOTE: The plans mention that not all toddler mattresses are the same dimensions. Make sure to measure your mattress and adjust the dimensions accordingly. Our mattress was 2" longer and 1 1/2" wider than the plans. I used all 1 X 4's for the headboard and footboard instead of the the 1 X 3's on the ends. I would recommend you make your cuts as you go to allow for the differences in dimension.
NOTE: The mattress is originally a Crib mattress. Crib company wanted almost $100 for the conversion piece to make the crib into a bed. I showed them. Lol
I made this set for my granddaughter using the Fancy Doll Crib plans. On this build I enlarged the size of the Fancy doll crib to be closer to the Olivia crib. For anyone interested: ends-13 5/8”; bottom-21¾”; side rails 21”; legs-20”; 12- 3/8” dowels @ 8¼”. I thought the scale of the finials from Lowe’s were too large, so I found some I liked better at Hobby Lobby: 3 pcs per pack @ $1.47, item #165274. Since I got 6 altogether, I put two on the high chair. Love the look. I also changed the shape of the curve of the ends and replicated that on the highchair back. The shape of the highchair tray is also curved and slightly cantilevered over the side ends; the tray is 4¾” x 13” to allow for the curve, cut from a 6” wide length of scrap. The vintage lamb theme that I used with my great-nieces is carried out with this set, too. I found the water-slip decals at www.decalcottage.com.
Sat, 10/13/2012 - 18:53
This looks great! I wouldnt have immediately thought of finials on these... fantastic look!!
Sat, 10/13/2012 - 21:31
This is so sweet! Reminds me of the set I had when I was a little girl. Someday I'll have grandchildren to build these for...
The hubby and I love doing projects together! I drew up what kind of dresser I would like and we built it together. It was a fun project after his deployment to Afghanistan.
Tue, 08/05/2014 - 08:15
This is absolutely beautiful! Both the build and the finish are impressive. I would love to build something similar. You should post your plans as a new plan on Ana White's website! :)
My dad was a lot more particular with this than a farmhouse table is intended to be. Lol
I needed an end table that was a little bigger than the average end table - I had a space to fill in a corner between a couch and chair and was tired of the blank space being used as a dumping ground for...things my kids didn't want to put away or throw away. :) So I pulled ideas from a couple projects here and came up this. The cost was free since I just used the leftover wood from other projects we'd done and paint we already had lying around.
This is my variation of the Rustic X Coffee Table. I was going for a more classic to modern look and I prefer dark stain. This was my first furniture building project and I'm very happy with the results.
I changed the top to be three 2x8's (1.5" x 7.25") and the bottom shelf is five 2x4's (1.5" x 3.5") and adjusted lengths accordingly. I also shortened the legs to 14" so it's a good height for use as a foot rest from the couch.
I was originally going to change the X's on the ends to 3 vertical 2x2's, but we have our first baby on the way and the way the spacing worked out was asking for a head to get stuck. So I decided to leave it open.
The table top and the bottom shelf were biscuit joined instead of doing tons of pocket holes. I recommend that if you have access to a biscuit/plate joiner (I borrowed a friend's) . The rest of the frame was done using pocket holes from the Kreg jig.
I recommend buying Kreg Jig R3 instead of the Mini. You get way more for your money. I also recommend using the Kreg pocket hole screws, some of which come with the R3 kit. They make driving much easier and you don't have to worry about stripping the square heads.
Seven foot farmhouse table with weathered grey stain. Instead of using the pocket hole method we screwed the boards together and put stainable wood filler over the screw holes. The chairs were made from ana white plans as well.
We are in love with our new table! It was definitely a labor of love and being so large we had to transport it in pieces but it was very worth it.
This is a king sized bed frame. The beams interlock. They were burnt with a torch, stained and clear coated. The headboard was my first attempt at upholstery.
Mon, 10/22/2012 - 18:54
Oh my gosh, this bed is absolutely gorgeous! Did you use or modify one of Ana's plans, draw it up yourself? Would absolutely love the plans to build one for myself if its okay :)
Sun, 10/28/2012 - 07:31
Thanks! I don't really have any plans for it. I got the idea from searching screwless bedframe. Found one one instructables site:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Nail-less-glue-less-almost-screw-less-f…
I wanted one that could be built with no screws (the headboard does have some screws though). My plan is to raise the frame on posts also so I could get rid of the box spring.
The hardest part is making the wedge cutout. I used a miter saw first and finished the cut on the scroll saw to get straight clean cutout. (step 3 from the website posted shows a good picture)
The headboard is basically a smaller version of the bed frame. Then I stapled the fabric on, then stuffed it with quilting baton.
Hope that helps. Check out the link, it will help more.
This was a great first project. My son was outgrowing his toddler bed and needed something new, and he wanted a bunk bed.
The bed is made exactly per the instructions for the Side Street Bunk Bed (http://ana-white.com/2012/03/plans/side-street-bunk-beds). The headboard and footboard are very heavy- get some help carrying them in the house. It has a coat of primer and 3 coats of black and red.
Assembly took about a day and a half, and the painting took another 2 days for the 3 coats. I didn't sand this down at all- and gives it a "rugged" look. The 3 coats of paint help to soften the feel so no worry of splinters. I have the ladder built, but just not installed yet.