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This is our version of a dresser cabinet. Thought we would share. We used mostly birch plywood and began by staining it but ended up painting it after the stain didn't work out.

My wife has been looking for a jewelry cabinet at local antique markets so I decided to make her one for Christmas. I mostly followed the original plan but added cork in the bottom section so that she could push in earrings that can't be hung from the front.

This was my first woodworking project and I really like how it turned out. The instructions for building the unit were pretty clear and I only deviated from them in two ways: 1) Since I am using this as a tv stand, I added a port (pictured) for xbox / cable box HDMI cables. I painted the port the same color as the unit so it blends in well. 2) To attach the top two stained pieces of wood, I used pocket holes instead of drilling down from the top. That way I didn't need to use any wood filler. I think I used 7 or so pocket holes per board and it seemed to be held pretty well. For the paint color, I copied kbdesigns' unit and used 'Intellectual' by Behr. I don't remember the stain for the wood but the stain is a darker color than it shows in the pictures. As far as the hardware, I modified those plans as follows: 1) I used a vise to bend the aluminum flat bar to provide stopping points for the doors, so they don't just slide right off the bar. I think I bent about 1.25-1.5 inches at the end. I just used a hammer and a vise and the metal bent fairly easily. 2) I drilled four holes instead of three for more support. 3) For the bar pieces on the doors, I made them 4.5 inches instead of 8.5 inches. I liked the shorter look in the original Grandy examples. 4) I used the clevis pins from the pulleys I bought to attach the wheels to the bars. Note: her instructions for the pulley wheels seemed very difficult. I was able to find pulleys on clevis pins that could easily be removed from the wheel casing, or whatever it is called. I found them at Home Depot. I think they were 1.5 inches.

The plans for the small and medium picnic table came at a perfect time. Our two granddaughters were growing out of their plastic play table and a big party was on the horizon - a graduation from pre-school.

As it turned out, I had purchased some very nice pine pre-covid and decided to use it for the table. The only change I made to the plan was to use 1" x 6" boards for the top as that was what I had. It gave the table a lighter look. I'm not sure if the boards will cup over time but I'm hoping the 5 coats of Spar Varnish will prevent that from happening.

I was surprised at how easy the plans were to follow and that the level of detail was enough to get it build without questioning "What do I do next?" or "How do I do this?"

I must say that having a miter saw and drill press made the job go faster but I could see that using more basic tools would certainly get the job done. Having the material allowed me to build the table in a single day. The coats of varnish took time to apply and let dry but I believe it will protect the table better than polyurethane.

I've wanted a storage bed step for years. They can be used for all sorts of things from storing books (not just in the bin, but also on the lower step) to remotes to . . . well, whatever clutter you need to stash away! But all those professionally-made ones are a steep price. The children's step on the site ( http://ana-white.com/2010/09/some-more-stairs.html ) is just perfect for modifying for a more adult look. An applique, wider steps, sloping sides, and a decorative cut on the front help transform child's furniture into practical storage space for children, teens, and adults!

Before I start, here's a bit of encouragement for those of you like me who don't have access to a lot of power tools: I made ALL of the cuts with a jigsaw! So if that's all you have, don't be afraid to try it!

The main thing to do is to take your time. Think things all the way through and do them in the way that you feel will be the easiest for you. Use a pencil and draw all over that wood (for this plan--I recommend a paint finish!). For example, I realized I would need to assemble a significant amount of the middle section first, because there was no way to get the bottom step securely attached without doing this. I couldn't attach its back edge to the interior, with tools I have access to, if the plan's assembly order was followed. Other than putting the lid on last, I had to use a completely different order for assembly, and it was so unusual that I'll leave that order up to you. So, take your time--but you can do it!

Bed Step's Interior and Top
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Adding 4" to the plan's side-to-side lengths brings it about up to the size of a traditional adult bed step. It also adds a LOT more storage space under that top step! However, you'll notice from the photo that I wanted an inset lower step. With it inset, sloped sides could be added--these double as built-in bookends! The lower step/tread, therefore, won't have 4" added to it. Instead, it should be cut to the same width as the interior boards (such as the footer). The lower step then becomes 16" (the same new length as the interior pieces), while the top one becomes 18" (4" added). Here's how I modified these pieces:

* 2 - 1 x 12 @16" (rather than 12") for the actual box's front and back (they're called "sides" in the plan). Here's a really easy change. The hole in the front one to pull open the lid can be omitted. This cut seems to make it look more like a child's step, isn't on adult ones I've seen, and the overhang of the top tread, especially on the side edges, is enough to open the lid. With a lot of planning and measuring, it can be helpful to add the applique to the box's front before too much of the assembly is complete, because it's easier to attach it to a flat board. On the same board, draw where the top of the lower step tread should hit. This is one of many helpful lines you can draw on the wood before assembling the bed step.

* 2 - 1 x 6 @ 16" (instead of 12") for the storage box bottom and the footer of the lower step (where it says "Molly" in the plan). On the footer, add a decorative jigsaw-cut-out design of your choice. Remember to leave a significant amount on the bottom for support.

* 1 - 1 x 8 @ 16" for the lower, inset tread

* 1 - 1 x 8 @ 18" for the top tread

Bed Step's Sides
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The above instructions pertain to the bed step's pieces that make up the center section. But the sides of the bed step can be a little intimidating due to the slope change, and here's where a pencil will come in really handy! First, a sigh of relief. The pieces are cut to the same length, so there's no change there. Cut out two 1 x 12 pieces at 14". Another sigh of relief: Your lower step will hit in the right place, because it's inset, and you've already drawn on another board where it should hit on the other side! In some ways, this can be a bit easier than having to get those original-plan L-shaped cuts just so.

Because the 1 x 12 I used was really off with measurements (it was 11 1/4"), I can't really give precise measurements for the step's two sides. But I'll try to explain what I did as best as possible in hopes that it will be helpful if you want to copy this look. The side pieces require a lot of thinking, in order to get that slope to hit the right areas. When I was finished with this bed step (before painting it), it was covered in pencil marks!

You won't want to cut as far down as the instructions say, in order to have the side slopes end a bit higher than where the lower step hits. Because the dimensional lumber I used was not a standard width (it was 11 1/4"), I only cut down about 5 1/8" instead of 6". But don't follow this measurement--base it on the wood that you have, instead. When you measure, keep in mind where the other boards will hit the sides, and measure. Basically, where the top of the arch sits shouldn't need to change from the plans, but you probably won't want to have your lower arch cutting point as low as 6".

I freehanded the slope to the needed size on a piece of paper, and then traced it to both pieces on opposite sides. The bottom arched cut already in the plans should be drawn on, as well. Remember to measure and draw, measure and draw, getting it exactly as you want it before making those cuts.

If you're going for the homemade antique look, it's easier, which is one reason I like the distressed look. You can just tell yourself it's supposed to look whatever way it ends up looking!

I hope these tips will help you make a bed step, as well as encourage you to try to modify other Ana White plans to fit your own needs. Have fun!

This was my first project. It's not perfect, but I love the way it turned out! The original plans were too large for my dining room, so I altered the plans to make it a 5-foot table. I actually ended up making it a little bit wider as well by adding an additional 2X10 to the table top to make the table look more proportional. The wider table top has made it perfect for family-style meals! For the finish, I did one layer of Rustoleum American Walnut stain applied with a foam brush and wiped off with a clean cloth after one minute. After the first layer of stain, I sanded the table with a very fine paper and then did two layers of Rustoleum Dark Walnut applied with a foam brush and wiped off with a clean cloth after only a few seconds of setting. Finally, I did three layers of Rustoleum Matte Finish polyurethane.

Great Miter saw cart plans! Absolutely love how mobile my miter saw is now. I added adjustable shelves and drawers for a ton of storage.

I love this design, Ana has created the perfect toy, esp to give as Birthday presents! The size is perfect, very sturdy, I put mine together with Kreg Jig. I've made 7 so far, the first time I made it, I didn't have a 1x8, and ended up Jigging 2 1x4's together. Worked so well, I do it every time now. I like to make these, fully sanding the piece before I put it together, and letting my niece or whoever is recieving it, paint it themselves. It's a great way to spend an afternoon with your aunt
Blog is under construction, I will be posting additional high chairs as I make them

I loved making this bed. This was my first experience using a Kreg Jig and it was great! We added three inches to the height of the bed so that my daughter could stand up for the next two years or so without bonking her head. We opted for rungs instead of stairs to save more space. We also used 2x4s cut to width for bed slats instead of a bunkie board.

Octagon picnic table! Built exactly to plan. This challenged my carpentry skills but I managed to pull it off all by myself. Great plans easy to follow and a great design! Would build again!

I used the Farm House Headboard plan to make this headboard. I had to mix the stain to match a dresser I already had. I used a mix of Minwax pecan, red oak, and jacobean stains for the base coat and then Minwax red chestnut for 2 additional coats. I then used 2 coats of fast drying poly to top coat with. The wood is pine stud grade. I did modify it a bit by adding an additional vertical cross member in the center and I had to add a 1" x 12" at the bottom because the style of the bed frame. I built it in an afternoon but it took several days to stain and top coat.

A built these shelves for my nieces birthdays. I reversed the color schemes to keep them separate. The plans provided are great! I would certainly use the added 1 x 2 supports if hanging on the wall because the shelf is heavy (about 14 pounds).

Followed the instructions. Very easy to follow.  Made California King size.

I love the toy box plans!! I've done some woodworking previously, but this was my first larger project. The first one was so simple and easy to make that I decided to make more!

Tiffanni

Modified the design and built from the sturdy bench and weatherly sofa plans for my patio set(will buy cushions in spring). I designed the tiled top dining table but I have yet to learn how to use the google sketch up to be able to submit plans here. However, if interested on what materials and step by step process with photos can be found on my blog link.
Tiled top table measures 42"X96" and 30inch high, seats 8 to 10.
All wood used are pressure treated pine.

This was my first dresser. The original plans say to lay the dresser on its back and center the drawer fronts then nail in place; in my opinion it is faster and more accurate to hold them in place and have a helper nail them in place. Also, the original plans suggest a certain jig for installing the slides which requires a locking c-clamp to hold the jig in place. Well, in my opinion the locking c clamp, along with a magnetic small torpedo level is faster and easier than the jig. A six in steel rule with a slider clamp is also helpful.This was fun project - learned a lot!  Thanks Ana & Patrick!

A $10 Mirror framed out with some 1 by 2, 1 by 3 and 1 by 4.

Stained black and then 2 coats of white paint sanding after each to give a rustic/antique look.