Community Brag Posts

We built the camp loft bed for our 5 year old sons birthday. He wanted a firefighter bed, but we wanted something that would be a little more "flexible" for his room. The camp bed was perfect for him! The stairs were too deep for the room configuration, so we did not include the stairs, and instead purchased a sturdy stepstool from IKEA to match the bed. The double bonus is that when we read to him a night we can move the step stool and stand on it while we read the story! I made the firefighter station curtain/tent and attached it with a tension rod. We also constructed a large toy box on wheels to slide underneath the platform for his big toys like race tracks, etc. The bed is very sturdy, the set up is perfect for his small room, and he loves it. The bed was very easy to construct.

I purchased a harvest table from a local store that sells only solid wood furniture.  The store had the option of purchasing a bench.  I decided that I could save some cash and make the harvest bench myself.

For details, check out my blog - http://www.woodworkingfourdummies.com/blog/harvest-bench

Cheers,

Ian

We took the plans for the twin headboard modification and added an x brace to make it look like a barn door.  We also added a piece to the bottom for additional support for mounting to the boxspring as well as to prevent warping and narrowing of the posts.  

This is our 20-year-old bathroom vanity, retrofitted to resemble the Napoleon Sink Console. This old cabinet is the standard builder size from the 90’s -- 30” wide x 29 ½” tall x 21” deep – fits a 31” x 22” sink top. The 2 outside drawers are working drawers, and the 2 inside are faux (just fronts). It was a weekend project. Since the sink stayed in place, I had to figure out something for the drawers to slide on. I had 3 sticks of ¾” x ¾” S4S in the garage, so I used these and fashioned a frame to hold the drawers, and also used it on the sides of the drawers as slides (figured the frame out as I went along). I used up some scrap 1x12 to cut the drawer faces and supports at the inside back of the cabinet. Since the space was so tight, I used some scrap 1x2 as bracing attached to the original frame, and attached the added face frame to that. The doors are ½” x 1 ½” craft board and ¼” birch plywood. The drawers are 3/8” x 3 ½” craft board with some ¼” plywood on the bottoms. I re-used the existing hinges and used some knobs from a multi-pack (available from Target) and some left over paint that was on hand. I bought about $30 of materials in addition to my scraps.
Now that I’ve got this one under my belt, it’ll be easier to do this in the other 2 bathrooms. I’ll probably use some 1x2’s instead of the s4s if I have to go out and buy the materials for the next one, it’ll just have slightly different measurements.

I used 1x6 cypress wood for the top as well as middle and bottom shelves. This wood was given to me from my in-laws and came from an old corn crib that was torn down on their farm. The remaining 2x2's, 2x4's, corner brackets and screws were picked up as used or broken pieces from a local Habitat for Humanity Re-Store. I also picked up the tung oil I finished with from the same place.  The pics show the various stages of build from the initial raw pieces that had been planed/sanded to using Hillary's tea and vinegar oxidation; after a good bit of tung oil was used; finally right before I gave it away as a Christmas gift. I had never worked with old cypress wood previously and was very impressed with how it accepted the oxidation (nice and light) as well as the oil finish. I preserved the old nail holes in the wood as much as possible and you might even notice I left some the white paint from the old corn crib that was on the end of one piece. Great plans - fun little project!

We struggled with the angles because we made the table bigger than this tutorial suggests but all in all, awesome build.

This is a modified version of Patrick's beach cottage dresser with a shelf at the bottom instead of a fourth drawer. The dresser was painted with Americana Decor chalky paint and distressed with Americana Decor wax. Thanks for this excellent plan, Ana and Patrick! 

This was exactly what I was looking for! I was able to make a sectional that fit our 4-season patio perfectly, and saved thousands of $$ in the process. 

Cushion details

Fullerton Outdoor Deep Seating Cushion Set - Threshold - http://www.target.com/p/fullerton-outdoor-deep-seating-cushion-set-threshold/-/A-52019240

Watch for sales on patio furniture, we were able to save 35% on the cushions (30% off sale + 5% Target REDCard discount)

Estimated Cost(s):

• Lumber = $200
• Cushions = $500
• Screws, stain, miscellaneous supplies = $100
• Total = $800

Finish Used:

• Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
• Minwax English Chestnut Oil-Based Stain
• Minway Fast Drying Polyurethane

From the club house plans. I did go ahead kreg jig all the panels on the front and back walls.

All the art work in the sign and on the steps i used a dremel and dug out and painted everything.

Came out beautiful.

Made so was easy to transports in parts to get up and down stairs in 8 pieces.

We built this after getting a new tv. We love it.

I began with the plans for the 4x4 truss table and modified the plans to include notched joints to make the table stronger. Finished the 4x4 pine base with paint to match our dining chairs and finished the 2x10 top with 1 coat of dark walnut stain and 5 coats of verathane. Added hardware under the legs to level the table. This was my very first woodworking project and everyone says how well it turned out! Next is a headboard and then maybe a dresser. Thanks for these awesome resources!

My first woodworking project since building a mug tree in school (I was about 12). This project started in the holiday break after I received a Kreg Jig as a gift, and this seemed like a good first project to tackle. We have a little boy about 20 months old who LOVES to help out, needed something more sturdy than standing on a chair, and this fit the bill perfectly.

I modified the design very slightly to ensure that the tower fits neatly under our kitchen island so that it stows mostly out of the way. That necessitated removing one of the "levels", and altering the dimensions somewhat to keep it proportional.

The biggest challenge of all was painting at the end! Made the mistake of using a spray can first, which made the wood fuzzy. So, sanded it all again, added primer (originally it was black), and then a couple of layers of white semi-gloss/enamel. Need to improve my painting technique to avoid brush marks in the future.

Here's my version of Ana's 'Numbered Cubbies on the Wall'.  Mine is made from a 6' long 1/2" x 3" craft board and a 6' long 1" x 4".  I followed Ana's plan, adjusting mine for a smaller size and proportion.  I used a finish nailer with 1" nails.  The numbers were drawn on with black Sharpie following Ana's method.  First print out a 3" number in your choice of font, cut it out and tape to the cubby, press HARD to outline the number with a ball-point pen, then remove the stencil and fill in with paint or marker. 

This is an easy and fun project.  It's very versatile and cute and looks store bought and expensive.

I built the simple outdoor table using a black frame and Brown boards on top.  

I only was able to complete this project for less than $10 because I happened to have most of the supplies I needed lying around the house already. If this isn't the case for you, it will cost slightly more, but not much.

I had 2 extra 12x12" mirror tiles left over from another project that I've been saving for something creative. When I saw the plans for this picture frame I knew I had a winner. I figured out how much wood I needed and purchased the cheapest type I could that wasn't warped. Since I wanted a bit of the "weathered" look, I didn't mind wood with knots in it. I followed the original plan exactly, the only exception being the specific measurements I knew I needed to fit these mirrors. I also had some extra burlap lying around and made my own stencils for my "M" and "L" monogram letters. After cutting them out, I simply hot glued them directly to the mirrors. Finally, I attached the mirrors to the back of the frames and hung them in place!

I originally wanted more of a rustic look with the paint (similar to the original blue one), but I think the burlap brings that in enough. Overall, I'm very happy with how this turned out!

Easy to build