Doll farmhouse bed for Avery
Once I saw the plans posted I knew my daughter would love it and she does!! Every time she goes to bed she has to put her babies in bed too. This was a simple build but very rewarding. THanks Ana!!
Once I saw the plans posted I knew my daughter would love it and she does!! Every time she goes to bed she has to put her babies in bed too. This was a simple build but very rewarding. THanks Ana!!
Built 2 of these for a customer. Stained with Rust-Oleum Dark Walnut and finished with Rust-Oleum Satin Ployuerethane.
We've searched for a corner TV stand but couldnt find anything we liked. I finally decided to build one.
Modified the plans to have sides like the wide cabin dresser, and took out top two drawers for media center
Wed, 11/14/2018 - 05:54
Thanks, the stenciling about killed me... Stupid OCD... lol
I asked my husband to build me Ana White's farmhouse table a few months ago...but he never found the time. Finally I announced I was doing it myself, expecting to get halfway through and then need my husband to finish it. I found out later he expected the same thing.
We were both surprised that I did manage to finish it myself, in about a week from the first trip to the store until it was finished and waiting to set before it came in the house.
I found notching the boards to be difficult at first, but my second try went great and everything fit as it was supposed to. We love our new table, and using the tools made me feel so empowered. I think I've found a new hobby!
My boys have to share a room so I needed to have some storage and increased usability. I added a 10" deep headboard to the top bunk and extended the desk to 10" deeper. I couldn't put the ladder in the middle of the room so i had to put it beside the bookcase and in turn had to turn the drawers to the inside so they wouldn't be under the ladder. I then needed a gap between the bookcase and the bottom bunk to access the shelves the the drawers on the side of the bottom bunk, so now there is a large shelf above the desk which is also the underside of the headboard. I also modified the desk to accommodate a computer tower when they get a bit older. There will also be a slide out keyboard tray and a small drawer. (haven't built them yet.) I managed to build this without adding much materials at all. the headboard was all scraps from the rest of it. The desk and bookcase are also 3" taller than the plans(seemed too short, in hindsight, now its too close to the ceiling... oops. )
Although it looks like a console now, the eventual use of this project will be as a vanity with a top-mount sink!
Using cedar fence slats, my son and I built this barn style hanging door for a space between two rooms in his partially finished basement. We planed each fence slat to achieve a smoother surface and to join the boards together. We finished it with a liberal amount of butcher block oil and beeswax to keep the wood from drying too quickly. We think it turned out beautifully!!
My husband and I decided to tackle the farmhouse bedside table as our first project. It was a test to see if we could build together without fighting and bickering. We succeeded! It is a little "rustic" but we are pretty proud of our first build. It was definitely a learning experience. The top is a little uneven due to one of the boards having a slight bend to it. I also should have put epoxy on the knots of the pine before painting it. We are going to make one more to match for the other side of the bed. Thanks for the plans Ana!
I modified the original plans to fit the height and length of my sofa as well as to show off the chevron planks. I was offered some pallets...so, I greedily accepted them, to which my husband rolled his eyes and sarcastically said, "Great, more wood!" I tried to make all of the table from the pallets but I ended up using pine for the table edging and the "X."
I laid out the table top in a chevron style on 1/2in plywood, glued and screwed them in from the bottom with wood screws. I attached edging with pocket holes. For the bottom part of the table, I attached larger pallet boards using glue and pocket holes instead of attaching to plywood. I actually attached the edging first to the bottom boards and then attached to the table rather than attach the bottom edging and then try to make the boards fit. I sanded the top and bottom tables with 40, then 80, then 120, and then 240 grit sand paper until smooth. I also sanded the legs the same way. To say that total time sanding for the entire project was 20 hours maybe an understatement. If you look at the underside picture, you can see the roughness of the wood...and I had already lightly sanded them! I ripped my own 1x2's for the edging and "X" from 2x4's with my table saw because I could not find anyone who sold unwarped wood...so frustrating!! The wood was so much straighter when I ripped them. I will rip my own wood as much as possible for now on!!
The "X's" were a challenge and I ended up cutting the ends at a 47.5 degree angles. I do not know why I had such a problem. I had right angles, but the wood is imperfect in many ways and not perfectly straight. I attached the "X's" together and to the table with glue and pocket holes. The legs had ink stamping, so I tried to keep that and not sand the ink completely off.
I added the metal "bling." I dulled the metal, primed and painted with metal paint. The paint chips off easily. So I think will end up replacing these pieces later on. The bolts were originally black, so they will stay.
Total time...several weeks because of all the sanding. I cannot devote whole days to woodworking because of family and work and I can only sand one hour at a time before my hands start to go numb. Also, the Waterlox requires at least 24 hours between each application. Cost: approximately $15...for the pocket holes screws (fine Kreg screws), hardware, other wood screws and 1 8ft 2x4. Everything else I already had (I already had the Waterlox, bolts, screws) or was given to me (pallets).
Skipped the 2x4 top and shelf and replaced with a 1x4 board. Got lucky with some scraps. The Colorado logo was distressed with a rotary sander.
I would like to thank www.stonecoatcountertops.com for the ideas on the countertops,
first off I used 3/4 MDF for this project, Ana White's momplex cabinet plans and just extended the plans to the size i needed, i created the doors out of MDF cut to size and used a router to create the design on the edge and the countertops are made with MDF, expoxy,spray paint, and metallic powder in 91% alcohol. this plan was so eazy, and my kids had a blast doing it, Thanks Ana for the cabinet plans
My first project where I made the whole thing by myself! My friend and I each loved this idea and so together we each made our own version! It was just what I needed for some bathroom beautifying in a small space!!
My husband made this for my daughter's 4th birthday. she loves it! We did decided not to add the wheels and it seems to be fine without them. We chose to do her name in letters as well. I did the lines and dots with a sharpe marker.
I built this for my oldest brother. I only used 2x2's for the legs. I built the carcuses out of plywood and used 1x2 select pine for the face frames. I built the top shelfs to be 5 feet tall. So the whole thing is 7 feet high by 8 feet wide.
We needed a surround for the TV and really wanted to have a fireplace underneath. I took the Shanty Hutch/Sideboard plans and made some modifications. Took about 2 weeks to complete.
I went looking at plans for a bag dispenser, and I found Ana White's. Nice, simple design! The top, front, and bottom are made from a recycled maple table top. The sides are made from 1 x 3 boards that I glued up. Works exactly as I hoped!
I love my dogs, but their wire kennels were an eyesore. Removing them completely was not an option, but I was tired of looking at them. I went back to my first-ever rehab project, and took it one step further to create a one-of-a-kind castle for my pups.
The original piece of furniture was an old console-style TV cabinet. Sliding doors on the front revealed the TV, and two lids on top contained the tuner and a turn-table.
Armed with screwdrivers, hammers and a dremmel, all components were removed form the cabinet, leaving just the shell. (PLEASE be sure you remove all sharp, potentially dangerous, screws, staples and what-not’s from the inside of the cabinets, to avoid injuring your pet! The dremmel allowed me to cut off and grind down stubborn screws.)
To cover the holes in the top cabinets, I used old checker boards. The cubbies are now a great place to store dog treats and leashes.
OPTIONAL: The back panel of the cabinet I used had holes from the TV components. I elected to replace the back board with a new sheet of peg board. (The peg board allows for much-needed ventilation.) In order to get the size perfect, I traced the old back onto the new and marked the original screw holes.
I vacuumed the inside to remove all construction debris and polished the exterior with Pledge. Then, I inserted an old comforter into the kennel, and stood back as my two pups launched themselves into their new abode.
The doors can stay open during the day for them to enter at their own will, and close for bedtime. And my eyes no longer hurt.
Thu, 08/11/2011 - 18:41
This was such a great idea. I love the old console. I love to build but I love it so much more when I can use old wood or repurpose parts of old furniture and industrial pieces. I feel creative. The checker boards are great. Do you have a blog?
We took the general plan of the Cassidy wood shim bed but added some features of our own. Since my husband is in the military we knew we would be moving more than the average builder so we made the bed to be more durable for frequent disassemblies. Instead of screwing the frame to the head and foot board we used carriage bolts to secure the pieces.
We also wanted to add a reclaimed aspect to our bedroom. We bought some reclaim cedar siding from a local estate investor and decided to do a chevron pattern. After staining the whole frame, we applied the siding to both the head and the foot board since we bought basic plywood and wanted to cover both ends. Plus, we liked the look with both ends done better. We cut the siding at 45 degree angles and then custom cut each piece to fit. This was a time consuming area since, with reclaimed wood especially, each piece is unique. We then just used liquid nails to secure the pieces.
To finish we assembled the bed and applied a paste wax.
Wed, 09/04/2013 - 21:12
This bed sure looks amazing. I made a bed from the same design just a little more like the main shim bed with a tad bit of modifying. like you guys i was military and made the bed for easy take apart with 7in lag bolts vs nailing. Good luck with future builds.
Sat, 09/14/2013 - 23:44
Wow, I'm amazed at how awesome that bed is! I love the pattern of the wood and the varying colors of it. Turned out great!!!
Tue, 05/13/2014 - 08:44
You guys did a fantastic job! My wife and i were looking to create a bed with a chevron or herring bone pattern, and this provides the perfect visual. Question about the foot board: It looks like there are varying thicknesses or some type of beading on the boards. Is there?
Thank you!
j
Tue, 05/13/2014 - 08:44
You guys did a fantastic job! My wife and i were looking to create a bed with a chevron or herring bone pattern, and this provides the perfect visual. Question about the foot board: It looks like there are varying thicknesses or some type of beading on the boards. Is there?
Thank you!
j
Sun, 11/06/2016 - 15:53
How did you place and secure the carraige bolts to the frame? I move around a bit too and would love to know how to do this. If there is anyway to upload a picture of what it looks like, that'd be great.
This was my first Ana White project and the first time using my new Kreg jig that my wife bought for me as a birthday gift. I modified the plans to build this as one complete unit and not as separate bins to be stacked. I used my Kreg jig on the dividers and ends to attach each section to the next. This saved on material and made it a bit lighter since I was building it 4 units high. I added small 2x3 feet to the bottom to clear an outlet behind the toy bin. Two L brackets were used to anchor the unit to the wall.
Instead of using galvanized pipes, to save money we opted for ready made closer rod & hardware from Lowe’s and added additional 2x4 pieces perpendicular to the shelf supports and screwed the closet rods into those.