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I had the wood to make this for about 2 weeks. Started on Tuesday and finished Thursday evening! I wanted the look to be different from the Apothecary look so I made the doors a little different!

We did it and we love it! Hand made by the LeFebvres in Canada. First attempt at cabinets and drawers. Definitely visit Hilary's site and follow her tips which make this so much easier to construct! Finished cabinet is not only big but VERY heavy to move. Love it.

Teepee for the grandkids.

This was our very first project made from the plan Shoe Shrine Shelves submitted by Anna White with a few variations. The middle, short cabinet was made from left over pieces using the same dimensions as the taller shelves. The width was determined using the mirror dimensions. The mirror was my husbands genius idea! It was an old mirror just sitting around in our garage, he sanded it down, primed with Kilz and painted Antique White to match. He also suggested the trim stripes on the front (painted Pure Black for contrast) to give the cabinet some unique character! This piece can really be designed many different ways to suit your specific needs. I LOVE it and can't wait for our next project! Thanks so very much Anna!!!

This was a pretty simple project as long as you make accurate cuts. Making accurately angled cut allows for tight joint also love the pocket screws. I did add a top brace for stability, seemed a little unstable without them. I pocket screwed them on from the backside, so they can't be seen from front. Than went with a two tone paint/stain.

Great instructions and a great finished project

Hi! I love Ana White's plans! I used the chunky leg desk plan and added drawers and a flip-up vanity top! :) https://www.instagram.com/bow_and_timber/

My wife wanted to get a new rustic style head board in the Pottery Barn style. Thanks to your site and plans I saved around $800. My wife even made a comparison picture with my head board and two from Pottery Barn. This was my fist major project and ever since I built this, people just come to me with ideas of things to build. Now she wants a matching foot board. I love your site and it's the first place I look anytime I have a project in mind.

I was inspired to try woodworking after seeing plans for this toybox. After that, my imagination is running wild with projects. I've added a few other pics of projects that I've finished. Thanks, Ana. Just wanted you to know that you continue to inspire!

I made this cabinet first, actually two of them, that way I would know the exact depth to build my other wall cabinets.  The depth without the face frame came to 11 3/4".  I built it exact to the plans, Thank you Ana!  I did modify the height to 36" and the rails of my face frames are 2 1/2" to accomodate the trim at the top and lighting at the bottom.  I have never built cabinets before and never made a pocket hole before either!  But I couldn't invest the $15,000 that Lowe's quoted me, this house is too old.  So I found a really nice set from craigslist and went from there.  I built all my wall cabinets to a custom height of 36".  The doors came from FastCabinetDoors and they are great quality doors.  The door I chose was "Camden" in oak frames and panels.  I used Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations in Pure White for the finish.  I hope to be finished in 5 weeks.

We followed the plans for the A-frame chicken coop very closely, and then modified it a bit at the end.

1. Trim was added to two doors on each side, as suggested. They are secured with latches at the top, more to keep them from falling open than to keep critters from getting in. We used 2x4x10's instead of 2x4x8's on the middle horizontal rail, giving us foot-long handles on each side. My husband and I are able to move the coop about 15 feet at a time, which is pretty good considering it is STURDY!

2. We used 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, as suggested by one commenter (and lots of others in blogland).

3. I cut 1/4" plywood to fit the loft space and coated it with vinyl stick-on tile. This should make it easier to clean. We didn't screw down the plywood, so if we have to, we can remove it to hose it off/scrub it.

4. I cut a triangle of plywood to make an egg door at the end of the roost. It hinges at the bottom (with a 2x4 ripped into a 1x4 to cover the hardware cloth and provide a mounting spot for hinges) and latches at the top. I plan to use cotter pins or something to secure the latch. There is also a piece of untreated 1x4 held in place with tabs at the egg door to prevent bedding from falling out once it's converted to the nesting box (I'm planning to get pullets, not ready to lay yet, so they won't even have a tempting nest box)

5. There was no bottom door in the plans (to allow free-ranging), so I cut a piece of 2x4 to make a triangle against the bottom (same size as the egg door). It folds out (just like the egg door) and will allow the chickens easy access to the yard. We do have hawks in our neighborhood so free time will always be supervised. We also have a dog (who I coaxed into the coop for the main picture, haha!) who will need supervising. She's been around chickens before but you never know what will make her turn on them!

6. There was also no roost in the plans (although if you look at Ana's coop, there is a 2x4 across the middle of the side walls). I had a leftover closet rod, so I mounted that in the covered section parallel to the ladder. The ladder was shifted to the side. For the ladder, I just used a piece of cedar fencing and cut 2 48" dowels into 4 pieces each, and secured those with screws from the underside. I hope my chickens will be able to get up the ladder!

7. I also made a tube feeder from PVC and a dog bowl, and am working on a nipple waterer. Will update post when those are finished!

Now I just have to get some hens! I've been searching craigslist and can't wait!

My second project ever (was feeling brave taking on drawers)!!
I made 2 drawers from the plan and intend on building an upright attachment.
The bench is VERY sturdy and the drawer space is incredible. I managed to fit almost all my sporting gear in one and my board games in the other.

We wanted to make a rustic solid kitchen table and the Fancy X was the perfect fit. Originally we were attracted to the beautiful pictures of Jackies framhouse table but at the last minute deceided to switch to the Fancy X plans to make it a little different. We were also attracted to the design because a local shop has one like it for sale but at $1800 thought it a bit steep. The project came to $300 because we chose hardwood for the table top, with pine it would have been abot $200. We are very happy with the results. Thank you Ana!

We wanted a shallow table behind our sofa where we could charge our phones and laptops while relaxing in the evening. I used three 1” X 6” pieces of cherry, connected with pocket holes, and put a small gusset in the corners. With a couple of power strips inserted in the top and plenty of polyurethane, that was it!

His Hands

Used the sturdy work bench plans for the base. The base is 60" x 20". The top is 6'x2'. I wanted 2" overhang all around to accomodate clamping. I used 3/4" oak plywood for the benchtop. It's stacked as follows, oak plywood, 3/4" mdf x 2, oak plywood for a massive 3" thick top. I used pocket holes to join the legs and on a few of the other joints including to attach the top. The benchtop layers are screwed together with 2.5" wood screws with countersinks for the heads. I would have put a full shelf in but that's the piece of wood I had so I used it. I bought the 7" undermount woodworkers vise online for around $70. It's mounted with 2.5" lag screws and washers. I did not use exact 2x4's for the base, I used the standard 2x4's (which are actually 1.5" by 3.5"). The bench is pretty sturdy as is but with the massive top/vise and not using standard 2x4's it is not as solid as I would like. It's fine for now but eventually I going to install some threaded rods through the legs length and width to pull it together rock solid. I put some tung oil on the top and later i'll put some wax paste over that. I'm going to seal the edges with shellac or maybe just leave as is. Eventually put some bench dog holes in the top for my vise. I did this all with a cordless drill/bits, kreg jig, circular saw with homemade fence, rulers, squares, random orbit sander etc. Took about two weeks time, working mostly on weekends. The bench alone is around $130, all bought from a "big box" store. Be ready to spend more $$ on tools if you don't have them. This is my 2nd project.

I put an ad in a local classifieds for free wood. Got some heavy oak beams I had local carpenter saw to make the leg posts. The top boards are construction scaffolding boards. All will be sanded and stained some more, top boards sanded and varnished, bottom boards and posts stained and some holes filled w epoxy and it is good to go.
This was a really fun project. We stood on top of the boards to make them bend down when screwing them in from the top as well as bottom, as the middle board is cracked and bent. I love the table as it is now but it will look even better when the boards are even more worn and grey from the elements. Thank you Ana White!!!!!!!! we can't wait for a book of yours' to come out for a European audience, as we Europeans have a hell of a hard time to convert the measurements! This means we improvise a lot. The tables in your book help, but the local wood we buy in many different countries and stores.. have different measurements!!!!